Need Help Socializing Feral Cat With Indoor Cats

[dbcatperson]

Hello,

I’m really hoping for some advice and help for what steps we should take—this is new to us and I’m sorry this is a little long. We have two indoor cats we adopted from a shelter last year. A few weeks ago, one of our indoor cats ran out the door when my husband went outside and we were unable to find her. We set traps hoping that we would catch her. A couple days later, we trapped a different cat and I saw it had an injured leg so we brought it to the humane society for help and to see if anyone was missing a cat or if they could try to get him adopted. After a couple weeks, the humane society said nobody claimed him and they feel he’s a wild cat and they neutered him and gave him a rabies shot and asked if we wanted to pick him up to release him back in the area where we caught him. They asked us to keep him in the carrier for a few days to get him use to the area again. This was really bothering us to let him go—we were worried about his safety but also for the wildlife we have around our area. We decided we wanted to try and socialize him and see if we can bring him inside. My husband bought two dog kennels and attached them together to make a little more room for him and we have the carrier inside the kennel—he mostly stays in the carrier but does come out to eat and use the litter box when we aren’t around. We have this kennel out in the garage, though.

We’re kind of lost on how to handle this and what to do. He’s really been in a cage about 3 weeks now—2 weeks at the humane society and one week here. I go out in the garage 4 times a day—twice to feed canned food (he also has dry food and water) and twice for cleanup and just to check on him. We probably should try and sit out there with him so he can hear and see us more? He seems to stay in the carrier when we are around, though.

At what point can a vet check him over to see if it’s safe for him to come in the house and how do I safely get him and our other two cats use to each other? How long can he stay in a cage? It really bothers us to have him out in the garage by himself and he just seems so lonely but yet I’m a little worried he’s too wild yet--I’m afraid to reach my hand in there. I’m hoping to see him come out to eat while we are actually out there.

I also purchased some herbal feral drops from Jackson Galaxy’s website that sounded good—not sure if anyone has tried that on here?

Any suggestions you can give us would really be appreciated. We’re feeling pretty lost and don’t want to do something wrong and screw things up. Oh, by the way, we did get our cat back a couple days later after trapping the feral cat.

Thanks for your help.

Diane

 

[shadowsrescue]

Thank you for rescuing this little one and trying to socialize him. It can be done, but it takes lots of patience and lots of time. The best thing is to focus only him and getting him used to you. At this point don't even be thinking about doing intros with your other cats. That will come at a later time.

Is it possible to move him inside to have a room of his own? It is much easier to socialize in a room. The cage was a great idea to start with, but it is really to access him when you cannot get close. The idea is a to have a "safe room". This is only his room. The other cats do not come inside the room. The room has to be cat proofed. If there is a bed in the room, it must be flat on the floor or picked up off the floor. You DO NOT want him hiding under the bed as you will never get him out. You also want to block behind all large furniture. Get on the floor and look from his vantage point; where could he hide. Cats can squeeze into very small spaces. Have a litter box on one side of the room and food/water on the other . You can still keep the cage in the room so that he does have a safe spot, but gradually it will need to be phased away.

In the room, you will want a Feliway diffuser. It will help him greatly. You could also try Composure calming treats or Composure liquid max if you feel is he nervous or very scared. I have used Jackson Galaxy's Feral drops and they do work. You can mix them into food as well as sprtiz around the room.

You want to visit often, for short periods to start. I would try to visit every hour and stay 5-10 minutes. Always bring a yummy treat. Something extra delicious like plain cooked chicken, canned tuna or a special treat. He will start to associate you with something yummy. A very special food reward I stumbled across is Gerber Stage 2 baby food. Cats love the chicken or turkey. The jar is very small with a blue label. The ingredients are chicken or turkey and water, no added spices. I started with a bit on a plate and as time went by, I offered it on a spoon. Just remember this is a treat reward and not a meal replacement.
Sit on the floor as to never loom over him. Also avoid eye contact. Direct your gaze down or over the top of his head. Direct eye contact is threatening to cats. When visiting, talk to him as much as possible. Tell him about your day, read aloud, tell him over and over that he is safe. When you are not in the room, during the day, I would play a radio that has a mix of calming music and talk. It will get him used to others voices.

When working with ferals it is quite common to move one step forward and 2 steps back. Don't get discouraged. We are here to help. I have brought two feral cats inside my house and care for 3 others on my property. Just be sure that you are dedicated to helping him. It's a lot of work, but very worth it in the end.

Later when things are better, we can help you with introductions. For now keep the cats completely separate. I would get him to the vet sooner than later for tests (FIV/FELV) and vaccines.

 

[dbcatperson]

Thank you so much for your reply and I appreciate your kind words. I think we might need to do a little work before we can move him into the house—our house is pretty small and I think only one room could possibly work for him because of our other cats but it’s kind of a junk room except for my husband’s computer being in there which means my husband would be in there sometimes too? We could try to get that room in better shape and bring him in then but it could take a few days? Another option is bringing him in the basement until we get the room in better shape but it’s probably not much better than the garage and he probably would need to stay in the cage to be safe? Only good thing is he would hear us more and get a better feeling for our home? Should he see the vet before coming into the house, though? I’m not sure if he could have fleas. I’m a little worried he didn’t eat his food I put out for him this morning. he was eating fine the other days. Maybe I’ll try some tuna but I hope he’s okay. I think this has been too long to be in the kennel.

I’m going to try your other ideas. I’ll do my best to try as many as I can. I don’t think I mentioned this but the humane society thinks he’s around 3 years old.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[shadowsrescue]

The computer room would be perfect. Just be sure that all bookcases or other large furniture are blocked off both under and behind. It would be great too if he has a cat tree or perch so that he could look out a window. Having your husband in there at times is actually a plus. He will get used to him.

I like to use a baby gate or two in the doorway. I have found that most of my rescues try to get out the door. I use a gate that swings open ( pass through baby gate) so I can easily get in and out of the room. Later on when he is ready for introductions, you can think of adding a screen door or making a barrier. I have pictures and links on how to do both when the time comes.

I would try to get him to the vet ASAP. You do want all of the tests run and vaccines too. THey can get him some flea meds as well as a dewormer. Since he is still in a cage, it might be easiest to get him to the vet now. Then when you are done with the vet, you can move him straight into his new room.

Both of the boys I have brought inside were 3 too. I also have gone through introductions with 2 other cats in my home and a large dog.

 

[dbcatperson]

Is there a certain height to have for a baby gate? or a certain brand? i'm afraid he'll climb right over it. Maybe we should shut the door but have the gate a bit inside so he wouldn't run out when we open the door? we'll have to see when a vet can look at him. We are trying to find a new vet since our old one is too far away now. I'm hoping we can get the room in better shape and bring him inside sometime this week but he definitely needs to see a vet first. i do feel a bit nervous if he would attack us? he goes between his two carriers in the kennel but doesn't come out by us or eat in front of us. Hard to say how he'll be once he's in here. Hope he'll get use to us. He's very good at using his litter box.

Thank you again for all your help. I appreciate it so much!

 

[Kieka]

I have a little one who came to me as a feral at 4 months old and really have nothing much to add to the how and methods already stated. I will say that my girl absolutely lives for routine and the more scheduled your days are the easier his adjustment will be. My little feral will have literal panic attacks when something disrupts her routine so we keep everything steady and normal on a general scale. When we have guests over we keep it to one room so she knows the other rooms are still safe and she has her cat tree house that is her safety zone where no one is allowed to touch or reach for her. In my opinion, the time and effort to socialize ferals is worth it. With her she has bonded more firmly to me then any other cat and is the best about following the household rules (coming when called, not allowed on tables, no human food, etc).

In terms of the other cats, the amount of time it will take to socialize him to allow free range of the house should effectively mingle scents so they aren't total unknowns. Just take it nice and slow when it is time for face to face (I love the screen door idea for that point). My feral is very attached to my male cat but that could just be because she was taken from a situation where a male was taking care of her and put in a home with a male who loves other cats. I swear my boy would bring home friends if she let him (yes, her. She hisses are strange cats and you can see him deflate and turn around to chase off the cat he just lead to our house).

 

[shadowsrescue]

I start off using a gate and the door closed. I then graduate to either the gate and a barrier or a gate and a screen door. I purchased a cheap screen door from Lowes (around $20) and set it up against the door and secured with tension rods. It worked well when I was ready for the cat to see and hear the comings and goings of the house. Yet it was pain to set up. I just recently brought another feral boy inside and this time around I used a barrier. I purchased wire shelving and attached it together with zip ties. My boy is not a jumper so I went with one 12' section and had Home Depot cut it into 3 pieces. Yet if you are worried he might jump, you might go with the 6' tall. Here is an article describing the set up and below I will attach my pictures of screen door and barrier.
Build a free-standing cat / dog / pet gate with virtually no tools

Call a vet as soon as you can. Explain that he is a feral cat that you are socialzing, but at this time cannot handle. Some cats when they get to the vet just give in and do very well. Others need to be sedated. I would ask around for a vet that is ok with feral cats. Some vets are just fine while others will say no way. You want a vet that will work with you. My vet is awesome. The first feral I brought inside, I had already neutered, but he needed vaccines and tests. I was able to get him into a carrier ( by feeding him inside it daily for weeks) and the vet allowed him to be there all day. They did his vaccines, examine and blood work in shifts so not to overwhelm him.

I would really try to get him to the vet this week and then right into the room. Also try to curb your fear of him attacking you. Most ferals will not attack unless provoked or if they feel threatened. If you are nervous or afraid he will pick up on this. You have to be calm and tell him over and over that you will care for him and that he is safe.

It will take him time to adjust, but you need to work with him daily. Many times each day. Try to visit often with a special yummy treat and just sit with him. It's ok if he doesn't come out at first. It may take time. If he doesn't want the special treat, just leave it and hopefully he will eat it when you are not there. Gradually he should look forward to this. As long as you are patient things will go well. If you rush the process or set high expectations, it will be struggle.

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[shadowsrescue]

I cannot seem to get a link to work from Amazon. You can do a search on
Carlson Pet Products Carlson Extension Pack for Extra Tall Pet Gate through Amazon.

Here is another
Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Gate with Pet Door, 29 to 44-Inch

 

[dbcatperson]

Wow, thank you all for such wonderful suggestions. My husband is going to stop after work to talk to a vet close to our house to see what they say. I also thought about calling the humane society to see which vet did his surgery and if they could do a checkup but i prefer to find someone closer if we can. We have two carriers in the kennel and he's really liking the smaller carrier--must be cozier? i have warming pads (using their own body heat) on the bottom of each carrier. The only problem is the small carrier we took the door off so that's a problem for taking him anywhere in that carrier. he sometimes still goes to the other carrier but you never know when that will be. so that could cause problems for getting him to the vet. I hope this will work out. We're going to start working on his room tonight since that will probably take us a few nights to get that in order. hoping he can be in here by the weekend. just hope the other cats won't be bothered knowing another cat is in here.
Thanks again for all the help--I really appreciate it!
Diane

 

[shadowsrescue]

Just keep the other cats away from his room. Also make sure you have a few Feliway diffusers. One in the computer room and another for the other cats. It really does help them to feel calmer. Yet the key is making sure that you have enough of them. Most of the time when people say they don't work, it is because they are not using enough. It stinks that they are so expensive. I find them cheaper on Amazon. They even have a new one for Multi Cats. When I bring a new cat into the house, I often use 4 at once. I am gradually able to pare down.

Is there a way to put the door back on that carrier? If not, just be sure when you are working to get him into the carrier, you use a safe location where he cannot escape. It might be difficult and he might be super scared, but cats soon forget. Once home, he will adjust, but this is necessary for him to live inside and meat your other cats.

I hope the vet will work out. Some vets are great while others try to tell you to just leave the cat outside. Find one that suits your needs. I have always told my vet that they can sedate the cat if needed. I have taken in lots of strays and ferals and never have they had to sedate. Sometimes the cat is there all day, but the process works.

Keep us updated here and I hope all goes well.

 

[dbcatperson]

Thanks again for all the wonderful ideas. I ordered a gate and I still need to look into the diffusers. I’m not sure if we’ll be able to get very many right now but I’ll see what we can work out.

I had another question—my husband stopped at the vet in town here yesterday and one of the ladies working there said she helps out at the humane society and that she believes they do more checking on the cats than we think. For sure we know he was neutered and given a rabies shot but we don’t know of anything else. I read online how they don’t really do much else since they are going to be released back outside. But she thought we should just bring him inside unless he’s showing signs of trouble. I tried calling the humane society today to see if I could find out what else they may have done to him while he was there and someone was supposed to call me back but they haven’t called back yet. I wanted to see what you all thought about this. I think he still needs to get checked by a vet and it would be too risky since we have other cats.

Regarding the small carrier without the door, he sure likes to lay in there a lot but I’m hoping one of the times he does move to the front carrier that I could take that out and put the door back on it. We need to have a way to move him to the vet.

We really would like to try and get him in here this weekend. Would that be risky to bring him in the house without seeing the vet first? I’m afraid once we let him in the room, though, we’ll never catch him again in the carrier.

One other question, how do you ever trim the nails on a feral cat? Is that possible? I struggle as it is with my other cats but I was wondering how you all handle that.

Thanks again!

Diane

 

[shadowsrescue]

Even though he is neutered and had a rabies shot, you will still want him tested for FIV and FELV as well as other cat vaccines. I would not bring him into the house before you get him to the vet. The easiest would be to get him to the vet while still in the cage and then after the vet appointment right into the new room. If you cannot get him into the carrier, is it possible to just take him in one of the cages?

As long as he is separated from your other cats he is not a risk to them, but for the ease of it all, I would just take him from the garage to the vet and then into his new room. If you bring him into the room, getting him into a carrier later will be very hard. I would be sure that once at the vet that you do not have to return again in a few weeks for more vaccines. Most can be done in one fellow swoop. Yet you will need to know the date of his last rabies shot.

As for trimming nails, have the vet do it while he is there. It is something once at home, you will need to work on. Be sure he has lots of scratchers. Some cats like vertical scratchers and some prefer horizontal. See what he likes and work from there. I have cats that like sisal rope on a cat tree, cats that like the small horizontal cardboard scratches, cats that prefer carpet ( UGH) and cats that like wood. When I brought my first feral inside, I had his nails trimmed the first time he went to the vet. He then did not have them trimmed again for many months. Yet he did fairly well filing them down on scratchers.

Once you start to pet this new one, you can work on touching his paws. Touch/rub his paw and offer and treat. Keep doing this over and over. I still offer treats to my cats while trimming nails!

I hope all will go well for you and that you can get him to the vet soon.

 

[dbcatperson]

Thanks—I agree with you and we have to get him in to the vet. Now he’s having diarrhea today. Could that be from worms? The next time he goes in the bigger carrier I’ll have to take the small one out and get the door on there so we have a way to get him to the vet. I can’t think how we could do that with the kennel—my husband took off the two ends and attached them together so that could be a problem. we almost have to have him in the carrier. I feel so bad that we just aren’t doing enough for him right now—it will be a lot better and easier once he’s in the house. I’ll have to see if we can get him in by the vet tomorrow or Saturday and we’ll have to rush and finish getting that room ready for him. The gate is coming tomorrow but I still have to get the diffuser.

I have that problem with one of our cats and that she will not scratch on any of the scratchers we have. She only scratches on the furniture and the rugs. I don’t know how to get her to use the scratchers. I have the rope type and rug type and the cardboard kind of scratchers. I’m lost on how to get her to use one of the scratchers.

Thank you again for all the help!

Diane

 

[shadowsrescue]

The diarrhea could definitely be from worms. It also could be stress or any number of things. If possible, get a sample of it to take to the vet. It will help them pinpoint the problem. He definitely needs to be wormed.

You can get the diffuser at most pet stores, yet they are quite pricey. Amazon or Ebay or Entirely Pets sell them much cheaper.

I have a cat that only likes carpet too. I have to keep his nails short or he wrecks the carpet. My DH took an old carpet remnant and made him a place to scratch. He uses it 50% of the time. I have just given up. I try to stop him when he scratches too much.

You may just have to reach in the cage and get the carrier. Or you can guide him to moving so you can get it. He may be upset/scared for a bit, but it needs to happen.

All will be ok. Just one step at a time. You are doing great!
Btw, does he have a name?

 

[dbcatperson]

Thanks, i'll definitely get a diffuser on order today. I'm going to keep checking on him this morning and i'm hoping i can get the door on the other carrier. one time he went into the other carrier yesterday but by the time i got back out there with the door, he moved back. i have to keep the door out there so i can do this right away. I'm hoping I can do this today so i don't have to get too forceful with him.

Oh, his name is Bob. They called him Cognac at the shelter but we didn't think it fit him and changed it to Bob.

Thanks again--it is such a relief to know there are so many caring and helpful people out there.
Diane

 

[dbcatperson]

I have another question—the vet in town here will let us drop Bob off and they will look him over but they can’t do this until Thursday. I’m worried this has been too long for him to be out in the garage and in the kennel. I feel good about taking him to this place but I don’t know if we should wait that long? Or try and find someone else? The last couple days he was having mushy poop and some normal mixed in but before he had watery diarrhea and I can see worms in it. Possibly ring worm? But I’m not sure if that’s what they are—looks whitish and thin and they are shaped in a circle? I have some worm pills that are for tapeworm and ring worm—I’m wondering if I should try to grind that up and put it in some tuna? We’re going to try asking the vet tomorrow morning if there’s any way to see him sooner since he’s having this trouble. Oh I was able to get the door back on the one carrier so this will be easier now to take him.

Thanks for the help.

 

[shadowsrescue]

I would definitely call and try to get in sooner. Did you tell them of the watery diarrhea? I would tell he needs to be seen right away. The worms are not ring worm as ring worm is a skin condition. They could be round worms or tape worms. You want to take a sample into the vet so they can properly identify it. Go ahead and get a sample now with the worms and put in a zip lock bag and keep in the fridge. I would not give the worm meds until you know what you are dealing with. Drontal is the normal dewormer and it takes just nasty. Most cats will not eat it even in tuna. I would have the vet pill him for you. It may require an additional dose in 2-4 weeks.

So glad you got the carrier door on. Just call the vet in the morning and ask to be seen Saturday or first thing Monday.

 

[dbcatperson]

Thank you. We'll talk to the vet as soon as they open today and tell them about the watery diarrhea he has now and see if they can see him sooner. i threw the worms out when i cleaned it up. i shouldn't have done that. i'll have to see how things look this morning and if more is out there, i'll put them in a bag. If there isn't anything today, should we get the ones out of the trash? oh you're right--ring worm was wrong. I probably made another mistake because i tried mixing the drontal in the tuna but i have to see if he touched it. maybe he didn't if he can pick up the bad taste. sure hope the vet will help us out sooner. oh i know i'm so glad i was able to get the door on--just helps to know we can take him to the vet anytime now.
Thanks again.
Diane

 

[dbcatperson]

Question and update:

Yesterday my husband brought in some of the samples we had here and they said it’s round worm and they will see him tomorrow morning. They want us to be there and that we can’t just drop him off? So I’m worried how this will go. It looked like a little blood in his diarrhea this morning. i stopped giving him canned food yesterday but he wasn't eating as much of it anyways. i'm only leaving dry food and water out. he does eat some overnight but he doesn't have the appetite like he did at first but maybe it's because of this worm problem.

Also, we’ve been working on the junk room trying to make it safer for Bob to go in after the vet appointment. The problem is we have about four bookshelves in there that have a lot of stuff on them. Will this be okay or do we need this room completely empty? I don’t think we can do it—just too much stuff in a little house that we have no place to put this stuff. I don’t know if I should try to cover at least the bottom shelves with plastic or a garbage bag? My husband’s computer is in that room too that he uses every day—do we need to block off areas of his desk and where the wires are? One nice thing about the bookshelves is we have them in a U-shape that I thought it could be more secluded for Bob if we put his carrier in there and there’s room for the litter box and food and water too. so he’ll be blocked a little bit from the doorway and where my husband sits by his computer.

Thanks for your help.

Diane

 

[shadowsrescue]

I have a bookcase in my cat safe room too. I used an old shower curtain to cover it. Just to be sure. I didn't want my new one spraying. After a few weeks I took it down. Just be sure that he cannot squeeze behind or under the book cases. Block them off with old towels or pillows.

Just keep the computer covered with a towel to keep it safe.

Best of luck tomorrow. Let us know how it goes.