Need Help Socializing Feral Cat With Indoor Cats

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dbcatperson

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Sorry it’s been so long since I posted. Bob has been going back and forth with diarrhea and then solid. I don’t know if I tried the pumpkin enough but I gave up on that and tried some slippery elm but saw it was past the expiration date so then I’ve had him on fortiflora probiotics the last few days. So far this seems to be helping the most. His poops have been more solid—just some looked a little mushy yesterday but much better than it was. I’ll see how this goes just with the fortiflora. If the diarrhea comes back, maybe I’ll add slippery elm as well? I have a new bottle now. Does anyone else use fortiflora with good success? or slippery elm?


We still have him in the kennels because he may need to go back to the vet next week for the infection on his foot. We’re having trouble seeing his foot because he’ll stay in the carriers when we are out by him and hides his foot. (except one day after doing a big cleaning on his kennels, we put the carrier back in and opened the carrier door and he actually came out and walked up to the front carrier but we were so surprised that he was out that we forgot to look at his foot). The vet said it was a pretty bad infection that he might need another round after Monday. Once he sees the vet again, we want to bring him in the house. We’re worried once he’s in his room he won’t go in the carrier anymore for taking him to the vet.


Thanks for the help.

Diane
 

shadowsrescue

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I would definitely wait to move him until his vet visits are done. You do want the foot re-examined as well as being sure the diarrhea is under control. It is not uncommon to need a second round of deworming meds. You might try to take a stool sample in regardless if it is solid/semi solid or diarrhea. That way the vet could tell if there are still parasites present.
 
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dbcatperson

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Hi,

Thanks for asking about Bob. It was going to be so hot here that we worked on moving Bob and his kennel from the garage into the house over the weekend. Our house is small that it’s a very tight fit for now with his kennel in here but we wanted him to be in there so we can get him to the vet this week.

One good thing is since I switched his canned food, he hasn’t had diarrhea. Sometimes his poop is a little soft but mostly it’s been good. No watery diarrhea at all. Not sure if it’s really the food or just a combination of things.

We had him in the house and set up Saturday night and he did eat his food overnight but the next morning when I put his food in his kennel, he wouldn’t touch it. I tried even another kind of food with a stronger smell but he wouldn’t eat it so I thought he’s just nervous or getting use to the new surroundings. I waited and fed him later when it started to get dark and he did eat that and ate dry food and drank water overnight. This morning the same thing and he won’t eat his canned food. I’m not sure if I need to do anything else to help him feel more comfortable or just give him time? I have some towels covering parts of the kennel—probably as much as he was covered when the kennel was in the garage. I have a diffuser plugged in but maybe I should plug in another one? It’s a small room but one maybe isn’t enough? Is there anything else you would recommend?

Thanks!

Diane
 

shadowsrescue

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It really may just take him some time to adjust. Is the diffuser, a feliway? One should be plenty for the room. You could try some Composure or other calming treats. I have found they work well. The towels are a great idea. as they should make him feel much safer.

You might try playing music in the room. I would try to find a station on the radio that plays light rock or soft music, but also has some talk. You want him to hear people talking. I often would leave this on 24/7 for weeks.

As for food and not eating, he may prefer to eat most of his meals at night. You might try offering him dry food in the morning and leaving it out for him and then the wet food in the evening. When he is more adjusted, you can go back and add the wet food to the morning routine.

When I have brought cats inside, the adjustment can be a few weeks. Hopefully after this last vet visit, all will be well and he can come out of the kennel and explore the room some. This will be another big step. Just be sure to leave the kennel for awhile. He may prefer it. You can give him time, but you do want him to come out at some point. You may need to move the litter box and his food out of the kennel to "force" him out a bit.

When working with ferals, it is always a very slow process. Often one step forward and 2 steps back. Yet, it is so wonderful that he has you and is in a loving home.
 
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dbcatperson

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Thank you so much. The diffuser is feliway. Oh I also forgot that I had bought some feral drops from Jackson Galaxy’s website and I was putting that in his food but stopped when he was having diarrhea—I wonder if I should start those again? I’ll have to look into the treats you mentioned too.

I was starting to get worried that he wasn’t eating his morning meals since we brought him in (well only a couple days so far) and seemed to do better in the garage but yet if it was noisy outside, he wouldn’t eat right away either. I’m happy he’s at least eating overnight. I also keep the tray of dry food in the kennel all the time in case he wants to eat that too but he seems to mostly touch that overnight. He just seems so down and I’m sure being in a kennel so long is the main reason. I hope he can adjust to the indoors and my husband and me and our cats. I want him to be happy and healthy and safe.

I was also worried he might not go back in the carrier we have in the kennel—after we brought him in the house in that carrier, he came out and was laying outside of the carrier in the kennel. I thought maybe he was worried we would take him somewhere else if he went back in the carrier. He’s laying in there today, though—I’m starting to feel like I’m torturing him if we bring him back to the vet but he needs to be checked again and he needs another dose of his worm medicine too and we aren’t able to touch him yet.

Something else i wanted to mention and i'm not sure if i asked this already but back when the vet told us he has feline aids, he said something about this not being good for Bob to be around other cats and that it can be spread by his saliva. I thought it could only be transferred by a deep bite? I did ask about leukemia and he said he didn't have that--i thought that was the one that could be transferred easier just by saliva? maybe we better ask him about this again. Back at that time he only did the snap test, is it? I wonder if he should be retested? but if they would need to sedate him again, i don't know if we should do that then?

I have a radio on in the kitchen. I wonder if that’s enough for him to hear or if I should put it in the room with him?

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it!
 

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The last cat I brought inside is FIV ( feline aids ) positive. It is perfectly safe for Bob to be around other cats. It is only spread through saliva through a very deep penetrating bites. Usually only non neutered cats would ever fight like that. Many vets who see stray/feral cats and have them test positive, recommend euthanasia as it was old school thinking that this disease was as bad as FELV (feline leukemia). Studies have now shown that cats with FIV can live very long healthy lives. They are more susceptible to getting some illnesses, but most do very well. Here is an article my vet sent to be from Cornell Universitiy Feline Immunodeficiency Virus FIV is not a death sentence at all. Especially if the cat is asymptomatic now. There are lots and lots of threads on this site about FIV. I read so much when I found out my boy tested positive. I also would be sure that he tested positive from the IFA test and not just the SNAP test done at the vets office. When you go back this week be sure to ask. If it was only the SNAP test then you want to have blood redrawn and sent away to know for sure. The in office SNAP tests have a high rate of false positives. Most vets office, will do a blood test (IFA) if they receive a positive on either FIV or FELV. It is also possible if he was ever an owned cat that someone administered an FIV vaccine. If this is the case, the cat will always test positive. Yet since he was un neutered and more feral than stray, this is highly unlikely. But not impossible. Do you know how old Bob might be?

Feel free to ask lots about FIV. I have done loads and loads of research. I had to be sure that it was safe for my kitty to live with my other cats too.

I do give my FIV kitty extra immune boosting supplements. I also feed him mostly wet food and make sure that he drinks plenty of water. Cats often don't drink much so I add extra water to the wet food.

I would put the radio in his room. You can keep the volume low, but loud enough that he can hear it.
 
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I’ve been putting lysine in his food sometimes. Not every day, though. Is this what you use or do you recommend something else? I should really do this every day.

We’ll have to talk to the vet and ask about retesting him with a blood test just to be safe.

They thought Bob could be around 3 years old. He sure is heavy when I pick up the carrier. I think he may have gained more weight since we had him plus he’s not really getting any exercise.

That’s another problem with Bob and that he mostly drinks water overnight. I’ve been adding some water to his canned food but I wonder if I should add even more to make it soupier?

I’ll put the radio on in his room.

Thank you so much for all your help and feedback.

Diane
 

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I have used lysine, but read that long term use is not good. I switched to a product by VetriScience called Vetri DMG. It's a liquid that is tasteless that I put in the morning food each day. All 6 of my cats receive this daily. During times of stress or illness I will give it 2x a day. Here is is on Amazon I have also bought it from Chewy.com

Another product I use is Dr. Mercola's Ubiquinol. Ubiquinol Liquid Pump for Pets - Mercola eCommerce
Also an article telling about it CoQ10 & Ubiquinol | Energy Source for Pets

Bob is about the same age as my FIV boy. Cisco (the FIV kitty) will turn 4 this year.

I add 1 T of warm water to each wet food meal. I used to feed Wellness canned food, but recently switched to making my own food. It has been quite an ordeal, but my cats love it so far. It is a process. I make their food quite soupy. I am extra paranoid as Cisco was the one who had the urinary obstruction and had to have surgery. When he lived outside he drank tons of water. Once inside, I did notice he wasn't drinking as much. Also when cats hunt for food, the birds and rodents they catch have lots of water. So I add additional water to every meal.
 
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dbcatperson

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Oh, I’ll have to look into these supplements instead. I didn’t know that about lysine.

I do worry he’s not getting enough water. I’ll be sure to always add extra water to his food.

How is Cisco doing now? I hope everything is better now?

Thank you again for your help.
 

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Cisco seems to have made a full recovery. It was a hard time for awhile. I still have a hard time with the litter boxes. I just want to be sure he is going enough. His original issue should never happen again, but he can be more prone to UTI's. With the home cooked food and the additional water and a supplement, I am hoping all will be well. I do not want to put him on prescription food. It will be a last resort.

When does Bob go to the vet this week? I hope it is uneventful. While he is there, if financially you can swing the blood test for FIV, I would do it then while he is there. I wouldn't make a special trip for it. If not, you could choose to have it run when he is to the vet at a later date.
 
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I’m so glad to hear Cisco is doing better. So hard and stressful when animals are having health problems.

My husband is stopping by the vet after work today to drop off a poop sample. We were suppose to bring Bob in Friday but my husband’s plans changed so he’s going to see if we can bring him in sooner. I’m really nervous about bringing him back there again. I know this is so stressful for Bob. Is the blood test for FIV usually pretty expensive? Do they recheck for leukemia at the same time too or that would need to be a separate test? Or is the snap test he had usually reliable if it was negative for leukemia? I should ask my husband to check on that today when he stops there so we have an idea on the cost.

Bob ate his food a little earlier last night and it seemed to help that I made the room darker and put another towel on the kennel. I'm trying that this morning to see if he'll eat.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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The IFA blood test checks for both FIV and FELV. I think the cost is around $100. Usually if the cat tests negative on the SNAP test that is reliable. It is just known for false positives. Most vets will recommend a blood test for assurance when either FIV or FELV show positive. If this is not in your budget, then it can be done at a later time.

Vet visits are stressful for all cats. My poor Cisco had to make 5 trips (30 minutes each way) during his ordeal. It was not fun. Yet, cats soon forget and rebound quickly.

Do you plan to allow him to be out of the kennel once the vet visit is done?
 
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Oh, that is so stressful having to take pets to the vet. I hate doing that and hate to see how stressed out they get but they need the help and will feel better once they get the help.

Ya, that’s what we thought and that we could open the kennel for him once he gets through the vet visit. Just want to make sure he won’t need to go back anytime soon. We have the child gate up but we also keep the door mostly closed. I don’t think our other cats know about him yet or at least they aren’t letting it show they know. They do stand outside the gate, though. They probably wonder why they can’t get in that room anymore.

Bob didn't eat his morning food so i guess he will just be eating at night for now. I hope he'll get back to what he was doing before for eating but I'm glad he at least is eating at night. He did eat more dry food overnight--more than the night before and drank more water too.
 

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I would start some scent swapping. Place a towel or blanket in Bob's kennel. After he has been on it for a night or so, take the blanket and allow your other kitties to smell it. Just place it on the ground and see what they do. Another tip is to place it under their food dishes. It helps them associate strange smells (Bob) with something good (food). Then get another towel and rub down all of your other kitties. You can do them all on one towel. Take that towel and place it in Bob's kennel. He will then have the smell of your kitties.

I am sure they know he is in there. Cats smell very well. Once Bob is allowed out of the kennel, I would keep the door closed for awhile. Be sure the room is cat proofed and watch very very carefully for windows. Many cats are crafty and escape through open/cracked windows or screens.

I would be sure to work on getting Bob a bit more socialized before doing any introductions. Yet, if socialization is stalling, sometimes other cats can help. You could possibly bring in your most friendly and laid back cat. You only want to start with one cat. Have Bob watch you interact with one of the other cats. Even a bit of playing. Always have something yummy for rewards. It should be something very special to start with as you want the cats to look forward to this time. I usually use plain cooked chicken or bits of canned tuna or salmon.

I hope you can get Bob to the vet sooner than later.
 
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dbcatperson

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Thanks for all the great ideas. I like the idea with the towels. Should I wait until after Bob sees the vet again before I try this or I could start doing that now? I’ll be careful about the window. Just one window in that bedroom but we’ll be sure everything is secure and safe for him.

I could try bringing one of our cats back by him so they can see each other while he’s in the kennel or should I wait longer and see how it goes just with us when he’s out of the kennel? I am more nervous about them eventually being all together—if Bob really has FIV I’m so worried about him biting one of our cats but if I do this right and gradually over time, I hope they won’t have any problems with each other.

My husband stopped by the vet after work yesterday to change the appointment and to drop off a stool sample and they couldn’t take us sooner this week so it will be on Monday now. They checked his sample and said it was negative but they’ll give him his next dose of worm medicine when he comes in.
 

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I would wait until he is out of the kennel and done with the vet. Also wait for any site visits. You want to start with the scent swapping and do that for a few days before doing any site visits. Just take it slow.

Do not stress at all about the transmission of FIV. It would take a very deep deep penetrating bite. Most cats never would fight that way unless they were not neutered and fighting over a mate or territory. Inside cats may bite and even break the skin, but it takes a deep deep bite. All 3 of my inside boys rough house and play. They play bite too. If you stress about it and worry, the cats will pick up on this. Calm calm calm energy!

Concentrate on getting Bob socialized a bit. Just take it all one step at a time. The first feral I brought inside, had his own room for one solid year. We worked on getting him socialized with us and then allowed him to meet the other animals. It was a very very slow process.

This time around, it went much faster. The cat I brought inside in December was out of his room room time by mid March. It all depends on the new cats personality as well as your current cats and their tolerance.

One thing that always helps is to be sure that Bob has his "safe room" for as long as he needs it. When he is allowed some freedom, he may choose to go back there when he gets scared.

Also do you have a perch, cat tree or something where Bob could look outside? Once he is out of the kennel, it would be nice for him to have a place that is all his.

If you or your husband is handy, you can build something fairly easily. My husband and son have built two small cat condos. We call them Apartments as they are small. They bought the wood ( just mdf) and we had old carpeting that was glued, or nailed down. All of my cats love it. Here is a picture.
 
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dbcatperson

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Okay, that’s good to know that it is normal for this to be a very slow process. I was getting worried that he just doesn’t seem to be making any progress when it comes to seeing us but it hasn’t been that long and he’s been in the kennel. One thing is he hasn’t hissed at us anymore. I have to reach in to scoop his litter box and he usually is right close by in the carrier with his head sticking out. Ya, that’s one thing I have to try and control is feeling nervous and scared. I have to try and keep calm.

There is a desk in that room that he could lay on and it's right under the window—we have the top cleared off but I wonder if that’s too high for him to jump? We should get him a tree too but I like your idea—my husband is very handy and he could try to make something similar to the picture you sent.

Our other two cats are girls and we adopted them last year from a shelter. The one girl, Daisy, took a while to feel comfortable with us and it’s funny she went into this same room to use as a safe room on her own. She would sleep on the shelf in there so I put a blanket on there for her. I think it was two or three weeks before she finally came out of that room to stay out here completely.

Your two cats in the picture are cute and the darker one looks like our other girl, Tigger.

Oh I was going to ask if there is a way to brush Bob? There probably isn’t any way to do that at this point, though.

Today he did eat his morning canned food so I’m happy to see that.
 

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If your husband would like the plans to the apartment, my husband has been meaning to write them up. I have a blog where I focus mainly on my outside feral/semi feral boys, but I also talk about my inside cats especially since I just brought one of the semi feral boys inside. I did a post last month on the Apartment. If you are interested I will have my husband draw up the plans. It works so well as it's not too big or tall and fits well in corners too. The link to my blog is in my signature below.

As for brushing. You could try to get a soft brush (even one like for babies) and attach it with duct tape to a long wand or dowel rod. If you put a bit of cat nip on it, he might go for it. Most likely it will scare him at first, but if you get him used to touch, he might learn to like being brushed. You might try making the "pet petter" first and see if he could enjoy some touch. I often find it easier to start when the cats back is to me. That way they can't see it coming. I made one from an old sturdy wand toy. I wrapped a clean sock around it and secured with duct tape then I added a piece of soft flannel. I added just a bit of catnip. All of my outside feral boys have adjusted to touch by using the "pet petter" first. It can take a few days, but with consistency, most get used to it fairly quickly. You might try it while he is still in the kennel since he can't retreat.
Here is a picture of the "pet petter" and one of my outside feral boys.
 
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dbcatperson

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Oh thank you for all the great ideas and for sending the pictures. I’ll have to try making a pet petter—that is a really good idea to get him use to being touched. That would be great if I could get the plans for the apartment but only if you and your husband have the time to do this. Otherwise I don’t want to stress you out with more things to do.

Thank you again for all the help you continue to give me. I would be completely lost otherwise.
Diane
 
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