Feral / Stray ? Started living inside on Oct 16th

[Unc]

Adorable

That's not a saucer of milk though,is it?

Not really its powdered Goats milks he gets as
a treat every so often

 

[Kwik]

Not really its powdered Goats milks he gets as
a treat every so often
View attachment 465291

Unc's living the good life

 

[Unc]

Ooops Is he still Growing or am
I overfeeding ? He is now 13 lbs
Was bit over 10 lbs some weeks ago

From a recent GOOGLE Internet Question

"10 lb cat, calories per day.
A 10-pound indoor cat should eat about 200 calories and an outdoor active cat can eat about 330

He is getting 200 calories Wet cat food (220? with the dry) per day, indoor/Outdoor Sleeps nearly all day
and leaves at night (Yard encloser still in progress)

Seems like a lot very fast but have also read a recent stray will gain weight once food
is available at regular times ?

 

[Kwik]

He could stand to lose a pound by the looks of his photos but he does not look that much overweight to me.....most of them do overeat when they start out from trying to survive and then "WOW- look at all this FOOD".... it usually tapers off though,the gluttony( lol)

I think you might be slightly overfeeding,lol Still,t's good to see Unc having his fill -he looks so content,cut back a wee bit

 

[Unc]

If I had a Middle Finger
"Why are you bothering Me"

on top of the Fridge
............................................
​

 

[tabbytom]

He is getting 200 calories Wet cat food (220? with the dry) per day, indoor/Outdoor Sleeps nearly all day
and leaves at night (Yard encloser still in progress)

Indoor normal active cats needs around 200 - 250 calories per day. Very active - 300 calories. Bad calories comes from dry food. Best is stick to wet food as wet food keeps them fuller and hydrated.

 

[Unc]

Indoor normal active cats needs around 200 - 250 calories per day. Very active - 300 calories. Bad calories comes from dry food. Best is stick to wet food as wet food keeps them fuller and hydrated.

Thanks again for the help Very Very Very much appreciated

OK I can take away the Dry and see how he reacts

BTW
His Wet Food Schedule
5 Servings/Meals = 196 kcal

6am (when I get up) 41 kcal Wet (Savory Chicken or Turkey)
10am 38 kcal Wet (white fish or Tuna)
2pm 41 kcal Wet (Roasted Chicken)
6pm 35 kcal Wet (Salmon or Sea Food)
10pm (I go to bed) 41 kcal Wet (Savory Chicken or Turkey)

Been leaving the dry out for my 8 hr sleep schedule
Being old and having to get up at 2am to pee I could add
a 2am meal for 6 meals a day = 237 kcal

The Product Feeding Directions :
3 to 4 servings per 5 lbs so 6 servings is
actually the Min recommended.
He may be finding food while roaming at
night so will be glad once the fence is in place

 

[tabbytom]

Thanks again for the help Very Very Very much appreciated

OK I can take away the Dry and see how he reacts

BTW
His Wet Food Schedule
5 Servings/Meals = 196 kcal

6am (when I get up) 41 kcal Wet (Savory Chicken or Turkey)
10am 38 kcal Wet (white fish or Tuna)
2pm 41 kcal Wet (Roasted Chicken)
6pm 35 kcal Wet (Salmon or Sea Food)
10pm (I go to bed) 41 kcal Wet (Savory Chicken or Turkey)

Been leaving the dry out for my 8 hr sleep schedule
Being old and having to get up at 2am to pee I could add
a 2am meal for 6 meals a day = 237 kcal

The Product Feeding Directions :
3 to 4 servings per 5 lbs so 6 servings is
actually the Min recommended.
He may be finding food while roaming at
night so will be glad once the fence is in place

I see that his meal times are quite regimented and he's sticking to it which is great. Calories counting is little confusing but you don't have to stick with it. I mean, if your cat is fine with what he's having, yes, by all means stick with it.

Different cats have different behaviors and they may be doing something today and doing the other things the next day. Sleep pattern and food intake changes as the cat matures. Even cats that were outdoors roaming and then they are indoors, schedules change and they try to adapt to it.

It does not matter that the cat needs certain amount of calories per meal as to what is stated on the can. It's just a guide and usually it is not followed as it is cat dependent. As long as the meet the daily intake of 200 - 250 calories per day for normal active cats, it does not matter how much they eat at one sitting. So no need to best yourself up with the calories count per meal.

You can try leaving out the dry food in the night and if you wake up nightly to pee, then you can feed your cat some wet food. Otherwise if your cat are those that wakes you up in the middle of the night for food and you don't wake up to pee, then you put down some dry for him to graze so that you can have a more peaceful sleep and I think it is ok.

A cat that is slightly overweight is ok as long as they are not extremely overweight or extremely underweight.

 

[Kwik]

Personally - with my own clowder I free feed dry weight management ( metabolic) food .... they can graze at will and because they get 2wet feedings per day they do not over eat( once they learned food is always available & at their disposal)....This has worked well in my own household for many many years

They do love their wet food meals- someday they eat a little more,someday a little less- the only cat I ever had that is a bit overweight is my Graycie but Graycie has a few issues she needs meds for and since she's food motivated it's the least traumatic to bribe her with " treats" so thsts pretty much the problem with her weight..... but I have to choose my battles,we all do

Having said all thst I see nothing wrong with dry food for grazing-although cats are not really " designed" to "graze"..... there's alot of controversy on the Topic but honestly our cats are not out in the wild having to hunt a high protein meal to sustain them for a day or two until the next meal.... still,they don't need to eat all those " meals" recommended by cat food companies who want to sell their products...

Use your discretion,Unc looks great and I would not be as concerned about his calorie intake as tabbytom has mentioned- I'd suggest cutting back perhaps one feeding & leaving him free feed dry......that's just my opinion and I think Unc has it made- he could not have chosen a better pet parent

 

[Unc]

View attachment 465421

I see that his meal times are quite regimented and he's sticking to it which is great. Calories counting is little confusing but you don't have to stick with it. I mean, if your cat is fine with what he's having, yes, by all means stick with it.

Different cats have different behaviors and they may be doing something today and doing the other things the next day. Sleep pattern and food intake changes as the cat matures. Even cats that were outdoors roaming and then they are indoors, schedules change and they try to adapt to it.

It does not matter that the cat needs certain amount of calories per meal as to what is stated on the can. It's just a guide and usually it is not followed as it is cat dependent. As long as the meet the daily intake of 200 - 250 calories per day for normal active cats, it does not matter how much they eat at one sitting. So no need to best yourself up with the calories count per meal.

You can try leaving out the dry food in the night and if you wake up nightly to pee, then you can feed your cat some wet food. Otherwise if your cat are those that wakes you up in the middle of the night for food and you don't wake up to pee, then you put down some dry for him to graze so that you can have a more peaceful sleep and I think it is ok.

A cat that is slightly overweight is ok as long as they are not extremely overweight or extremely underweight.

Thanks again

I dont really calorie count any longer, that was the original best feed approach for the Sheba single servings.
Read cats should have more of the Chicken or Turkey OVER the fish types so figured out the K Calorie for a
3 to 2 (Meat to Fish) 5x servings schedule
The Sheba Serving size is perfect for this type schedule, He licks the bowl clean .and ready to
eat again in 4 hrs. With the less frequent feedings he would get prissy, paw and grab at my pant legs
when in kitchen between meals, so the small portions every 4 hrs has stopped that issue

Hoping he keeps with the Sheba, When I give him the Old wet food he originally was eating he trys to bury it
and walks away

 

[Unc]

Personally - with my own clowder I free feed dry weight management ( metabolic) food .... they can graze at will and because they get 2wet feedings per day they do not over eat( once they learned food is always available & at their disposal)....This has worked well in my own household for many many years

They do love their wet food meals- someday they eat a little more,someday a little less- the only cat I ever had that is a bit overweight is my Graycie but Graycie has a few issues she needs meds for and since she's food motivated it's the least traumatic to bribe her with " treats" so thsts pretty much the problem with her weight..... but I have to choose my battles,we all do

Having said all thst I see nothing wrong with dry food for grazing-although cats are not really " designed" to "graze"..... there's alot of controversy on the Topic but honestly our cats are not out in the wild having to hunt a high protein meal to sustain them for a day or two until the next meal.... still,they don't need to eat all those " meals" recommended by cat food companies who want to sell their products...

Use your discretion,Unc looks great and I would not be as concerned about his calorie intake as tabbytom has mentioned- I'd suggest cutting back perhaps one feeding & leaving him free feed dry......that's just my opinion and I think Unc has it made- he could not have chosen a better pet parent

What a nice thing to say, thanks so much.

I kinda suspect he will settle down on the, I better eat while its there thing,
after he gets more use to the Regularity,

Lucky I am retired and financially stable, live alone and have the FREE time to do this schedule.
Oh someone mentioned Hydration, Like clockwork after every meal he jumps up to the kitchen sink
spout and waits for me to turn it on so he can drink, every single time.

Oh I also have him basically trained to come home in the morning when I blow his Whistle and Click his
clicker at the Kitchen window (6am). He comes in the Cat door and up the stairs Normally within 20 minutes
of the DINNER BELL
Today he had me worried took nearly an hour ? I asked where he was that took him an hour to
get home but he wont say

 

[Kwik]

What a nice thing to say, thanks so much.

I kinda suspect he will settle down on the, I better eat while its there thing,
after he gets more use to the Regularity,

Lucky I am retired and financially stable, live alone and have the FREE time to do this schedule.
Oh someone mentioned Hydration, Like clockwork after every meal he jumps up to the kitchen sink
spout and waits for me to turn it on so he can drink, every single time.

Oh I also have him basically trained to come home in the morning when I blow his Whistle and Click his
clicker at the Kitchen window (6am). He comes in the Cat door and up the stairs Normally within 20 minutes
of the DINNER BELL
Today he had me worried took nearly an hour ? I asked where he was that took him an hour to
get home but he wont say

You get what you give( thats my belief)- the more time you put in the greater the rewards,without fail

Don't even remind me of the waiting ,even once in a blue moon- thats the terrifying part with an outdoor kitty,you just never know if you'll ever see them again...It'll be great once you get everything escape proof ---- no more worrying !

 

[Unc]

You get what you give( thats my belief)- the more time you put in the greater the rewards,without fail

Personally I would rather give resources to a loyal pet rather than a fickle Human

 

[Kwik]

Personally I would rather give resources to a loyal pet rather than a fickle Human

ME TOO!

 

[Kflowers]

Keep hissing when he plays too rough, when he bites and when he scratches. The exception is if he falls off your lap, he will try to grab on because that's instinct and doesn't deserve a hiss.

I've read through and may have missed this. You did buy him some lovely things and he's beautiful, but I didn't see a carrying case for him. Carrying cases aren't just for the vet, they are for emergency evacuations - floods, fires that sort of thing. It's best to just get a good sturdy one, I'd look for airline approved, though I'd only take a cat on an airplane if it were life and death.

I say this as someone who had 8 cats and no carrying cases because, "We don't need those, babe, you can't just hold them in the car." He was out and I had to get all the cats out of the house asap on a busy street. We all survived but you'd be surprised how fast a cat can get out of cardboard box.

 

[Kflowers]

PS - sometimes cats have to go to the vet. If they are injured the carrier keeps them from falling off the car seat and getting hurt more. If they aren't injured it keeps them from helping you drive. I personally knew two cats who liked to help the driver. One liked to get under the brake pedal. The other liked to ride on the seat back behind the driver's head. This worked well until he saw a truck and wrapped his hands around the driver's eyes. maybe to keep the driver from being scared? It worked out, everyone survived and the cats got carriers.

 

[Unc]

Keep hissing when he plays too rough, when he bites and when he scratches. The exception is if he falls off your lap, he will try to grab on because that's instinct and doesn't deserve a hiss.

I've read through and may have missed this. You did buy him some lovely things and he's beautiful, but I didn't see a carrying case for him. Carrying cases aren't just for the vet, they are for emergency evacuations - floods, fires that sort of thing. It's best to just get a good sturdy one, I'd look for airline approved, though I'd only take a cat on an airplane if it were life and death.

I say this as someone who had 8 cats and no carrying cases because, "We don't need those, babe, you can't just hold them in the car." He was out and I had to get all the cats out of the house asap on a busy street. We all survived but you'd be surprised how fast a cat can get out of cardboard box.

Thanks so Much, I truly appreciate any and all advice Being New and never having a Cat before
its Sooooo much needed, I have continue to read and learn as much as I can but EXPERIENCE is a key
advantage

I did get him a Carrying Case Early on, Still working with him to use it. He did sleep in it One Night
and then started sleeping on top of it I sit on the lower bed matt during the days and put in at night
also leave a closed/sealed Tupperware type container of Treats that he trys to open Soon I should
have him trusting it

Oh I did lower the House Temp from 71 to 69f and he seems to like it better, also picked up
a few of these Cool mats and he seems to like them, One on top of Fridge and one on top
of dresser in my room. Ah also had to stop using the air freshener in my room, He wont come
in if its been recently sprayed

 

[Kflowers]

Lucky cat!

some air fresheners have essential oils in them which are actually a bit dangerous for cats to be around. My attitude is if you don't need the air freshener, don't take the risk. If you really want a safe cat friendly air freshener, buy the small box of Baking soda for use in the fridge. Stab several holes in the top and put it somewhere it can't be knocked over. Example, if you put it on top of the chest of drawers make a little fort with heavy things like books, bookends and the like around it so he won't knock it off.

If he does knock the box of baking soda off wherever you put it and it hits the floor -- Try to sweep as much of the baking soda up as you can, small sweeps the stuff turns into wanna-be desert clouds. When you've done that - on non-carpet wet paper towels to get the rest up. On carpet, use a scrub brush to work it into the carpet in the area, let it sit overnight, then vacuum. It may take a couple of weeks vacuuming to get it all up. However, plain baking soda is the reason the baking soda carpet freshener works.

It's all good.

 

[Unc]

OK This explains his Watering Hole located at the sink spigot

Googled

Why do cats not drink water next to their food?

Cats are biologically programmed not to drink water which is near their food or near their toileting area - this is thought to be their instinctive avoidance of contaminating their water with potential sources of bacteria.

=================================================

Should you put cats water next to food?

Cat behaviorists believe this may be due to cats hunting away from their water source in the wild. Cats also do not enjoy the scent of food while drinking water. In addition, they are turned off by food particles in their water. Therefore, keep cat food and water bowls in two separate locations.

EDIT:
Also Just googled

"do cats prefer cold water?:"

Many cats, like humans, prefer their beverages chilled. You'll promote more water consumption if you serve it cold. It's hard to keep refilling your kitty's water bowl, but luckily you can buy products that keep it chilled for hours.

 

[Kwik]

OK This explains his Watering Hole located at the sink spigot

Googled

Why do cats not drink water next to their food?

Cats are biologically programmed not to drink water which is near their food or near their toileting area - this is thought to be their instinctive avoidance of contaminating their water with potential sources of bacteria.

=================================================

Should you put cats water next to food?

Cat behaviorists believe this may be due to cats hunting away from their water source in the wild. Cats also do not enjoy the scent of food while drinking water. In addition, they are turned off by food particles in their water. Therefore, keep cat food and water bowls in two separate locations.

EDIT:
Also Just googled

"do cats prefer cold water?:"

Many cats, like humans, prefer their beverages chilled. You'll promote more water consumption if you serve it cold. It's hard to keep refilling your kitty's water bowl, but luckily you can buy products that keep it chilled for hours.

Yes- cats bring their "meals" somewhere safe to eat but not in corners or in any place they cannot see & escape from in any direction all around them and then whatever is not eaten they bury,that is to hide their scent- the same instinctual behavior applies to drinking from a water source & eliminating their waste- while they are eatijg,drinking or eliminating they want an easy escape route and are on high alert..... so this also should help you to understand the best way to arrange food bowls,water and litter boxes when transitioning a feral,semi feral or stray to the indoors- they are most comfortable and relaxed when they csn see all around them and take off in any direction in the event they feel threatened or danger approaching

It's believed by most that the reasons cats eat a good distance away from a water source & eliminate a good distance away from a water source as well is to keep the water from being contaminated but of course there is no way to prove that theory- however,it makes perfect sense and most animals in the wild behave in the same manner

Most people place litter boxes,food dishes & water bowls in corners or against a wall- of course a cat is hungry & thirsty so they will eat wherever you put their food and water but when it comes to an outdoor kitty the best way to help him feel less vulnerable indoors is to place his essentials where he can relax,not be on high alert and learn that he is in a very safe environment simply by placing these items where nothing obstructs him from escape....then after he is acclimated and familiar with his environment you can gradually move his food,water and litter boxes where YOU prefer.....

My own kittens have water dispensers ,litter boxes and kibble in every room -this eliminates any food or litter competition for even the most territorial,competitive kitty in a multi cat household-you have no issues there to consider- Unc has the castle all to himself