Can't Tame Feral...i Am Near Tears...need Advice

[sweetblackpaws]

I am wondering, too, if she might yowl less since she has been spayed already?

I will let you all know once she is inside.

 

[walli]

cover the trap with blankets if she yowls? to muffle the sound?
don't worry about the backward steps she will catch up in her steps, I have seen this with Walli
It's like the backward steps aren't permanent, but they happen, the littlest thing can cause a backward step
sometimes we don't notice what it is and wonder why it happened.
mine was the vacuum this weekend but the backward step didn't last as long as last time.

 

[sweetblackpaws]

That is a good idea, the blankets will soften any sound. Who knows - she may do great and I may be worrying for nothing.

It will be the first feral I have homed inside, so I am just nervous.

 

[walli]

Hey I'm right there with you I'm only on 2 months in the house, so I'm still a baby Feral Mom
We will go through it with you!

 

[shadowsrescue]

Any updates?

 

[sweetblackpaws]

I am still feeding her inside the trap. I know I should have Done the Deed already, maybe this weekend. I will certainly give you an update once she is inside (hopefully)! Thank you for asking!

 

[trudy1]

Please keep all of us posted. I’ve found covering the cage or place where they go with a blanket really helps....it’s dark, noise is muffled and you can’t see them except through the opening.

It will go fine

Keep the faith!

 

[sweetblackpaws]

OMG, she is too smart. I can't get her in past the first few inches of the trap where I have been putting her food. If I push the food further inwards towards the spring bottom, she simply won't go and will walk away.

I don't want to withhold food because I don't want her going into hepatic lipodosis from not eating (had recent scare with my other cat).

We'll get there - it just won't be today!

 

[sweetblackpaws]

Oh - yes, I did try covering with towels, and she still wouldn't go in.

 

[msaimee]

Most feral cats will not go back into a trap once they have already been trapped. Maybe it's time to go to a plan B? Is there a way you could leave a tuna trail from where she eats leading into your apartment, and then you close the door behind her once she's in? You would need to be behind her in the hallway, because if you are inside your home, she might be too quick and run out past you. Is there another person that she is comfortable being around? Two people can work together to get a cat into a pet carrier. One stands the carrier vertical, with the door open, the other throws a large towel over the cat and Scoops it headfirst into the carrier, and you both get the carrier door closed. The person doing the scooping needs to wear thick work gloves. This is not a pleasant way to catch a cat at all, but a neighbor and I did successfully catch a trap Savvy feral cat this way, though to be honest, he was a sick kitty and didn't put up much of a struggle. I agree with you that trying to starve a cat into going into a trap is not a good idea, and I've never done that, there is always a more humane way. If you work with her long enough, you may be able to touch and then handle her, to scoop her into a pet carrier. But that could take some time, and hopefully she won't get pregnant in the meantime. It would be good if you had a friend or neighbor with whom she could also become comfortable with, because it is always easier and less stressful for two people to trap a cat than one. Good luck!

 

[sweetblackpaws]

Msaimee, she is too feral to grab or throw a towel over her. It would not be possible. Plus, I don't have help.

However, I do like the "trail of tuna" idea. The problem is I have 3 other cats, so i would prefer she go to her "safe room" before having the run of the apartment. But you are right about needing a plan B. I am getting stressed from worrying about her (although, she is fine).

I think my only option is going to be luring her into the apartment and closing off the other cats. I don't know what else to do.

 

[sweetblackpaws]

Oh, MsAimee, she is spayed already......

 

[marmoset]

Are you by any chance covering the back of the trap with the towel? If so she might not be willing to go that far in because she will feel there is no way out so she'll want to keep her back end on the ground so she can back up if attacked. Cover the trap but let the front and back panel be clear of covering so the cat thinks there is both an entrance and an exit.

 

[sweetblackpaws]

Good idea, yeah, the cage was covered except for the front.

I know she would go in a regular carrier, but I would not be able to close the door fast enough.

So it is either keep working with the trap, or try a tuna trail into the apartment.

 

[catman925]

sweetblackpaws
I've been trapping and taming ferals for about 6 years now and there are a couple techniques that I've had success with when dealing with hard to trap cats. Keep in mind though, regardless of however you decide to finally catch your cat, patience is very very key. Cats such as yours that have most likely been trapped before will definitely not want to have anything to do with a trap or anything like it. They remember. The most important thing you want to be conscious of is you will have to take things slow and if you can at all times never let the cat know your intention is to trap it. You never want to force anything such as trying to push the cat into the trap if they are just inside the entrance for example. Best thing is try to maintain an atmosphere of everything being completely normal, mellow. I'm convinced that cats have OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder). Most cats do not like things to be changed or have their environment rearranged. An example of this is when you introduce a new piece of furniture or even if you rearrange your furniture completely. Most cats when first encountering such changes will be instantly perturbed or will get into their flight mode until they finally ease up to the new item and give it some good smelling. Eventually, the new changes become the new normal and they continue on like that's the way it's always been. I'm sure this is why cats hate moving or being suddenly stuck indoors (or outdoors) or when new cats are brought into the mix etc etc.

With this behavior in mind, the first technique I've successfully caught hard-to-catch ferals with (one that I kept that had gotten loose from a troublesome double-door trap and took over 3 weeks to re-catch her but was successful with this technique) is actually what you have already started to do with feeding your cat next to and just inside the entrance of a trap. What I do with this is I tie off the trap door to the top of the trap so that it cannot spring the trap. This way I can control the timing of when to actually have the trap catch the cat. Remember that you're working with a cat that A: does not want ANYTHING to do with this trap thing and as such is going to be super hesitant to go deep enough into it to have the trap spring and B: the farther in she does go into the trap, the more and more jumpy she's going to be and because she'll be in a higher state of readiness to fly out of there at the slightest noise or movement, there's a much higher chance she might be able to get herself halfway out that trap door before it's able to shut and you'll lose your one and only chance of catching her this way (you'll never be able to get her near a trap again in any form of near future).

So what you'll need to do is to ease her out of her anxiety. This is where the maintaining an atmosphere that everything is normal comes into play. What you want to do is to SLOWLY but steadily get your cat used to the trap being near her when she eats and incrementally getting her used to eating further and further into the trap. This entire process should be done no quicker than over the course of one week at least. If you try to rush things, you could spook her and you'll need to start over (only it will take longer the next time).

First, remember to tie off the trap door to the top of the trap so that it will NOT spring. Doing this allows you to make sure your cat's anxiety level has relaxed enough by the time she's gotten deep enough into the trap to actually get caught so that when you do finally remove the tie and set the trap, you can avoid her getting out that door before the trap sets.

Second, and very very important. Make sure you can control as best you can her access to ANY food. You want her to be dependent on the food you are giving her and nothing else. She is not going to want to go into that trap and if there's food she can get elsewhere that doesn't involve a stupid trap, she's going to go to that food instead. So make sure no one else is feeding her and make sure YOU are not feeding her anything outside of the food dish you'll be using in the trap. She is a feral so undoubtedly she has other sources of food, but she does trust that you will have a good portion of her steady diet which is why she comes to you every day. So you need to work with this advantage and make sure you don't provide her with anything outside of the food you're going to work with with this technique.

The first step is you want the cat to get used to the trap being there. Feed her next to the trap for at least a couple days (or three or four - this first step takes longer cause remember, she hates that trap). When you feel she's starting to accept the trap being there as a new normal, move her food dish to just outside the entrance and feed her there for a couple days. Once she starts eating the food at the entrance, move the dish just inside the entrance. Give her a couple days, then move further in. At each step here, all you're really looking for is Will she eat the food at the location you've put it? If she's uncomfortable, she'll probably sit and ponder the situation for a bit but eventually she should finally eat at each spot. As she gets used to eating at each location, then you want to move the dish further in. Remember, DO NOT RUSH THINGS. And during this whole process, make sure and maintain an air that "everything is normal"; best idea is actually for you to pretend the trap isn't even there or at least that there's absolutely nothing weird about the trap being there. It's supposed to be there. It's normal. Your feral already trusts you to a certain degree. She will be looking at you to help her determine if the trap is a threat to her or not. If you, by your actions and demeanor, show no indication that the trap is anything important and isn't a source of danger or worry, she should take that into her own feelings about the trap. She has bad memories with something just like it before, so you're working on changing her instinct to stay far away from anything that resembles a trap. Also, by getting her used to eating at locations that are deeper and deeper into the trap, and because the trap is tied off to not spring until you're ready, eventually you should be able to put the food dish all the way against the back wall (which is exactly where you want it for the cat to spring the trap-door). Remember, DON'T RUSH. Watch how she handles each successive deeper food location and move the dish further into the trap ONLY if you feel she's at least somewhat accepted the new feeding spot.

Final step:
If you're able to finally put the food dish against the farthest wall (past the raised floor that spring the trap) and she'll eat her food there, you're good to go. All you need to do at this point is make sure she'll eat there (ie scrunches her body to the ground while eating and more or less relaxed) and on the next day, untie the trap door and set the trap for real. At this point, she should be acclimated enough with the whole game that she won't be expecting that trap door to suddenly slam shut behind her.

If she's balking at the food being all the way against the back wall, what you might need to do, and this might sound harsh, but don't worry she will be fine, is you're going to need to make her very very hungry. By doing this, you can get her to get past her fear of being all the way in the trap. This is where having control over where she gets food from is crucial. If she can get food elsewhere, she will. Put the food all the way in for a couple days to test first. She might get over her fears on her own. If she totally refuses to go all the way in, you're going to need to starve her just for a couple days. Remember she has other means of getting minor sustenance like catching mice etc; she won't die if you do this. For at least 2 days, do not put out ANY food (water is okay) and make sure there is NO OTHER FOOD, scraps, or anything she can get to for the two days. You're going to work her stomach against her fear mechanism. Eventually, her stomach is going to win the argument. On the third day, put the food all the way in the trap against the back wall and SET THE TRAP. That cat that took 3 weeks to catch? When I set the trap on this third day, I didn't even make it 10 yards to my hiding spot before I heard the trap door slam shut. I thought the trap sprung prematurely on me, but when I looked, sure enough, the cat was trapped

Okay, this post turned out so much longer than I thought it would and I hope it all makes sense and maybe all the extra info in it helps with the situation.

Long-winded post short:
1. Make sure no other food source
2. Tie trap door to top of trap so will not spring until you're ready
3. Feed like normal with trap nearby (couple days)
4. Once cat is comfortable with trap being near, move food to outside entrance
5. When cat is comfortable, move food just inside entrance
6. Continue to move food further and further into trap, each time assessing cat's comfort level and acceptance of each new feeding location until you can put the food dish all the way against the back wall.
7a. If cat will eat with food all the way in the trap against the farthest wall, untie trap-door and SET TRAP at next feeding.
7b. If cat will not go all the way into trap at this point, STOP FEEDING for 2 days. On third day, put food all the way in the trap against the farthest wall and SET THE TRAP.

NEVER RUSH ANY STEP. Trick is to keep your cat comfortable and as much at ease as you can.

You should find success with this (I hope).

ps
The other technique involves constructing a tunnel that you will use to herd the cat directly into an open trap. This can be done using really strong cardboard, boxes, plywood, fencing, whatever you can find on hand. Main thing is you MUST make sure there are NO OTHER OUTLETS but the one that leads into the trap. And I mean NO OTHER OUTLET. As with the technique above, you really only have one shot at this. If you can get her used to eating in a location that is conducive to building this tunnel ie against a wall or maybe near the entrance of an already existing tunnel of maybe two very thick hedges (but make sure there is absolutely no way she can get through either one or get out by going underneath them), then you're going to want to either build the tunnel BEFORE she shows up for food or if no other option that you build it without spooking her out at any point. She's going to not like the new addition of stuff but if you play it right, she'll think "whatever" and get on with her eating.
Then you just need to get running into your tunnel and into the waiting open trap (at this point yes, spook her). She'll be so concentrated on running away from you that she'll not notice where she's headed and won't realize she went directly into your trap until it's too late.

pps.
BOTH OF THESE TECHNIQUES ARE GOING TO BE SUDDEN AND TRAUMATIC FOR HER. But let's face it though, regardles of any technique you use that involves the trap, every technique is going to be traumatic for her.
With this in mind, be kind to her and gentle. Put her in a small room by herself (spare room or maybe bathroom) and feed her there for at least 4-5 days up to 2 weeks especially if you already have other cats in the house. Work with her in that room until she has calmed down and has accepted that this is her new situation. She will adapt. Sometimes longer than others, but with your patience and understanding, she will eventually accept her new situation.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions etc.
-Art

 

[catman925]

another option albeit harder to come by is to use a drop-trap, which is a specialized trap that works on the old box propped up with a stick with a string tied to it that you pull (thus pulling away the prop) when the cat is under the "box" (trap).

If you use (and have access to one) this option, all the same behavioral considerations need to remain in place, ie making sure to play things off like everything is normal, that thing that's propped up over your food is just something you decorated with, nothing fancy and as with any technique, be patient and make it count. you're not going to get a second chance very easily and even if you do, it probably won't be anytime soon.
so , go slow and steady and steathily.

-Art

 

[catman925]

oh yeah also wanted to add re: covering the trap with towels etc:

covering the trap with a towel or sheet will not muffle any sounds the cat might make. that said, what WILL happen is you'll probably notice the cat won't make ANY sounds at all. we always cover any trap that has a cat in it for the entire time they are in it (for TNR recovery, sometimes up to 5 days for females -with regular cleaning, change of bedding etc). This includes during transportation, vet visits and during spay/neuter recovery. Having a cover over the trap helps the cat feel more safe from everything outside the trap; you're "hiding" them. They're pretty much like when you cover up a parakeet at night to go to bed. They almost instantly go mum, and they'll usually stay that way until you remove the covering or let them out.

an important note: it's imperative that you do cover up your feral immediately after you catch her. The very first thing she's going to do is ram herself against either end of the trap trying to get out (especially if she's been in one before). While doing so, she'll most likely bang herself up quite a bit, and will most likely get her face cut in the process (what we commonly refer to as "cage face"). Don't worry, all of this is completely normal and she'll heal just fine. But, you can minimize this damage by immediately covering the trap completely meaning using a covering that fully reaches the ground on all sides like a sheet folded over (to minimize being able to see through it), a blanket, or if you use towels, use two of them spread perpendicular to the trap and overlapped where they meet in the middle. Make sure both ends if the trap are covered as well. If you have one if the older traps with a solid front door, you don't need to worry so much about covering that end. All other traps make sure there are minimal places the cat can see through.

-Art

 

[Herekittykitty27]

I know almost nothing about cat behavior, but I’ll let you know that every single one of my cats are “not adoptable” feral cats. I’ll also let you know that they are the sweetest cats I’ve ever known.

Some will disagree with how I tame, but it works.

One thing I did with feral kittens was take a tame cat that doesn’t care and put them near the untamed cats. Then I would hiss at them. When I was a kid I thought that the untamed would think I was protecting them. I must have looked like an idiot, but it still works with kittens, so, I mean, oh well.

My biggest tip is to slowly work your way closer. If you see her around, put food out and continue your day. If you don’t have anything to do where she is, pretend to do something, perfer to do a quieter activity. She will notice that you have no interest in her. Although it seems counterintuitive, it does help. Work your way on getting closer and closer.

Do you have another tame cat? Tame cats can show her that there’s nothing to be afraid of, for example she will see the other cat eating whilst you sit next to it.

Also- you may already be doing this, but feed her normal dry or uninteresting food on the daily, and only give canned food when you are doing your “work” around her.

Hope this helps!

 

[msaimee]

I forgot that she has already been spayed--that's great! So the urgency is that you are moving in a few months and need to trap her before then, right? I do think that the best way to catch her is to enclose your resident cats in a room and lure her into your apartment. Perhaps you could wait until she's been in your apartment a few times and feels comfortable in there before you actually close the door. Because you will only have one shot at this. Just as cats won't re-enter a trap once they have been trapped before, if you are not able to close the door in time to get her into your apartment, she will be too afraid to go inside again. If you still have a few months, be patient. She will not enter a Humane trap again, and you don't want to withhold food from her, that will stress and confuse her, and be a betrayal of trust.. Also, the downside to a drop trap is that you still have to get her from the space in the drop trap into a regular trap, and if she refuses to move, you will be stuck. I could be wrong, I've only read and watched the drop trap procedure on the internet, But be sure you are well versed before you attempt that. Continue working on building her trust, and luring her into your apartment. You still have some time.

 

[catsknowme]

You are doing great with getting her used to the trap. I place an additional dessert-sized paper plate on TOP of the trap as well, including on trap day.