Where to place multiple outdoor shelters

[tigger13]

Hoping someone can give me some advice on this topic. I now have 4 stray cats I'm feeding. I know one belongs to a woman down the street, I think it's outside constantly, I already took in one of her outdoor cats when it fell or jumped 10 feet out of a tree in my yard and snapped his entire front leg in half. The vet was able to reset it and he's doing great now as an indoor only kitty with my other 2 strays. She knows I kept him and is fine with it, says he seems to like it better at my house anyway. Trust me, he's absolutely spoiled! I think the other 3 are feral. They seem to eat at different times of day and its now getting cold outside so I want to build or get a few heated outdoor shelters for them but I don't know how I should place them outside so They will all use it but won't be scared away by each other. These guys are all very young and I worry about them as it gets colder outside. They seem to avoid one another and I worry if I put them too close together they won't go in them. Anybody haThanks suggestions on how far apart I should put the shelters? They will be single shelters, I don't think these guys will share and I was gonna put food and water near each shelter, I want to make sure they all have enough food. I'm pretty much checking the food at all hours now to make sure there's some left for each kitty. Maybe put them back to back? What about making a long shelter with the doors at opposite ends. just not sure but I need to make sure they each have a place to go in the cold.

 

[shadowsrescue]

Thank you for caring for these cats.  First step is to get the cats trapped and get them spayed/neutered.  If not, the 3 will soon multiply and you will have lots and lots of cats on your hands.  You can often borrow or rent a trap from Humane Societies and find low cost spay/neuter clinics that will spay/neuter quite reasonably.  By feeding the cats and not spaying/neutering them, you are making them strong and healthy so they are able to breed.  Please get them spayed/neutered first.

Building a shelter is a great idea.  You can do something very simple such as a rubbermaid container stuffed with straw.  You also can insulate it with reflectix and use an outdoor approved heat pad if you have electricity outside.  You also can get fancy and buy or purchase a wooden shelter.  The key is to have an entrance and an exit.  Feral cats do not want to feel as though they are trapped.  To entice them into the shelter, I really do not recommend food.  It will only attract other wild life that will lead to problems.  You want to food only during day light and never leave food out over night.  If you do, raccoons, opossum and skunks will find their way to the cats.  To entice the cats to the shelter, catnip sometimes works, but time and patience is the key.

I would build a separate eating area for the cats and then a few shelters.  I have made many many rubbermaid shelters and also have 2 heated houses that are heated with a hound heater.  I also use outdoor approved heat pads in the magic boxes. 

You can do a google search on feral cat shelters and then look under images.  You will find lots and lots.  To see what I use, you can click the link below to view my blog.  I have a section on Shelters with pictures of what I have used.  There are also pictures of the feeding stations. 

 

[tigger13]

Thanks for the info!! I know about TNR and I know I should do that but I'm really struggling with it out of fear that it will traumatize them to where they won't return. The true fear behind this is early this year my neighbors 15 yr old cat Butters...they kept him outside 24/7, was killed right in front of me by 2 dogs, he died in my arms. These strays I feed now we're hanging out with Butters and I was worried they too we're killed so I started putting out food until they gradually migrated to my house to eat. So now I know they are still alive and since they eat at my house I can keep an eye on them and make sure, to some degree, that they are safe. So now I'm afraid to scare them away.
Also, one of them doesn't come around to eat until before day break and late at night, sometimes at 1am so I feel like I have to keep the food out late.
I was gonna put heated pads in each shelter, make sure it has two doors like you said, I have a few outdoor outlets for the heating pads.
Do you have any ideas for my issues/concerns above and how far apart would you put each shelter?
Thanks so much for your response!!

 

[shadowsrescue]

Please don't be afraid of them not returning.  TNR is a must or as I said you will be completely overwhelmed with kittens, cat fights and general poor health.  I have trapped lots and lots of cats.  They do stay away for a few days, but if you are their food source they will return.  It can be traumatizing for them, but they have very short term memories.  Cats as most animals, live in the moment.  Do not be afraid.  By doing TNR you are doing the absolute best thing you can for them.  I have trapped by at night and in the morning.  I much prefer the morning as I can just whisk them right off to the vet.  By just feeding the cats, you are making them strong to breed and breed and breed.  Traps can be purchased for around $40 and are well worth it.

As far as where to put the shelters, you can just scatter them about.  Are you putting them on a covered area?  If not, you may need some sort of a rain cover or awning as the element will blow inside.  I have lots of shelters on my deck right now as I am caring for 3 ferals. Our weather has been unusually warm for this time of the year so they are sometimes using the insulated rubbermaids with the heat pads and sometimes using the heated houses.  I think you will just have to try locations and wait and see what happens.  You may have to play around with the placement.  The first year when I had only 1 feral, he would not use the shelters at all.  He preferred under my neighbors deck.  He did come daily to eat, but wouldn't sleep there.  Yet by the 2nd winter, he was better adjusted and decided to stay. 

 

[tigger13]

You're absolutely right about the TNR. I'm gonna just have to do it and get over it cause you're right, I'm not helping them by not doing it. I know I can get a few traps from animal control, don't know if they are the correct traps or not though so can you point me in the right direction for info and how to's on the TNR, I know what it is but have never done it before. There's a clinic up the road from me. Lol...how do I not trap the same cat twice? I'm guessing too that I should place the traps well away from where I normally feed them so they don't connect the dots...or am I over thinking this? Bare with me, my hearts in the right place but my brain needs to take the reigns lol.

 

[shadowsrescue]

You're absolutely right about the TNR. I'm gonna just have to do it and get over it cause you're right, I'm not helping them by not doing it. I know I can get a few traps from animal control, don't know if they are the correct traps or not though so can you point me in the right direction for info and how to's on the TNR, I know what it is but have never done it before. There's a clinic up the road from me. Lol...how do I not trap the same cat twice? I'm guessing too that I should place the traps well away from where I normally feed them so they don't connect the dots...or am I over thinking this? Bare with me, my hearts in the right place but my brain needs to take the reigns lol.

I have purchased traps from Amazon for around $50.  They do the job, but my only complaint is that when the cat triggers the trip plate, the door slams down very very loudly.  After doing a lot of research, I found a trap that drops instead of slamming.  It's more expensive and took awhile to get to me, but I love it.  The key to trapping is to practice.  I used to set the trap and then use the end of a long wooden spoon or dowel rod to trigger the trap to be sure I had set it correctly.  Many people prefer to start feeding the cat in the trap to get them used to it.  You just tie the trap open so it won't close.  Then on trapping day, you set it to trigger.  I usually try first just to wing it and see what happens.  If the cat is too afraid, I start feeding just outside the trap and then move it each day inside the trap. 

Any way, here are some links for traps;  Looks like the trap price went up on Amazon.  You might find one somewhere else cheaper


Here is the trap I really like

http://www.trucatchtraps.com/small-animal-traps/30-ltd-light-duty

Here is a video from Alley Cat Allies on how to trap

https://www.alleycat.org/page.aspx?pid=555

Once a cat is spayed/neutered as the vet to notch/tip the ear.  This is the universal sign that the cat is feral and has been spayed/neutered.  This will prevent you from retrapping. 

Here are some tips on trapping:  It's long....

Here I will list a few tips on humanely trapping a feral or stray cat.

1.  One of the most useful tools is a good humane trap.  I started with a Havahart trap that I purchased off Amazon for around $40.  Many rescue organization or humane societies have traps that are available for loan.  If you do not have a trap or you do not wish to purchase one, try rescue groups or the humane society.  The Havahart trap was easy to use, but it was very loud when the trip plate went off.  It really frightened the cat.  It also was very sensitive and when I was having to set the trap under bushes or under my deck, it would often go off when I barely nudged it.

I searched and searched for a better trap and finally found one.  It’s the Tru Catch LTD30.  This trap is so simple to use.  It also is so quiet when the trip plate goes off.  Instead of banging shut, it just drops.  I also love the rear door.  I bought a divider so that I can easily get into the back of the trap to feed or change the newspaper or puppy pee pads.  Here is a link.

2. Once you have a trap, it is important to find a vet that works with ferals.  Many low cost spay and neuter clinics accept feral cats.  I am fortunate that one of the clinics in my area does not require an appointment for feral cats.  It really takes the pressure off of ensuring you can make the scheduled appointment.  Humane societies often take feral cats for spay/neuter as well.  Call around and find a clinic that meets your needs.  Low cost clinics generally have you drop the cat off in the trap in the morning and then pick the cat back up in the late afternoon.  The cats are not kept overnight.  Besides spay/neuter, the cats will receive a rabies shot.  You usually have the option of other vaccines, flea/tick treatment, deworming and tests for FIV and FeLV.  The cat also can receive an ear tip to designate he/she has been spayed/neutered.  All of my ferals received an ear tip.

3.  Once you have a trap and a vet clinic lined up, it is time to place the trap.  It is often advisable to begin feeding the cat in the unset trap for a few days.  This gets the cat used to the trap.  Yet some trap savvy cats are very spooked by the trap and will refuse to enter it.  You may have to start feeding just outside of the trap and gradually move the food back every few days.  I have fed the cat in the trap for a few days as well as just setting the trap and see what happens.  It depends on how desperate I am to trap the cat and the current weather conditions as well as how often the cat comes.  I have found that you can line the trap with newspapers or puppy pee pads.  I prefer the puppy pee pads as they are not as noisy as newspaper.  I find a 4 pack at the Dollar Tree.

When you are ready to trap, it is important to place the trap in the general location of where the cat normally eats.  I have used tuna, sardines, chicken, wet cat food and even dry food as bait.  I generally use tuna and drizzle a bit of the juice on the puppy peed pad and then a few small pieces leading to the back of the trap.  Some of the cats I have trapped were startled by the tuna and preferred that I use their normal food.  Sometimes you have to try a few different types of bait.  Here is a link to a video from Alley Cat Allies on trapping.  As well as one from Tru Catch.

Once the trap is set, be sure to keep an eye on the trap.  Once the cat is inside, immediately cover the trap with a sheet or towel.  This will help to calm the cat.  Do not be surprised if the cat thrashes around.  You can either immediately take the cat to the clinic or place the cat in the garage, basement or bathroom to wait for transport.  If you need to trap the cat the night before, it is best that the cat be placed in a warm garage, basement or other location away from noise.  If it is winter, I usually use my basement, but in warmer weather the garage is fine.  Just keep the trap covered and away from other animals and humans. I prefer to trap in the morning, but sometimes this is not possible.

4.  When the spay/neuter is complete, you often will need to bring the cat to your home for recovery.  Males can usually be released the next morning while females may need up to 48 hours unless they are still nursing kittens when they can be released sooner.  After surgery, all cats need to be kept in a temperature controlled environment above 60 degrees.  When cats are recovering from anesthesia they are unable to regulate their body temperature.  During the winter this will often mean a basement or small bathroom while in warmer weather a garage will do just fine.  Keep the cats in the trap and keep the trap covered.  You usually can offer a small amount of food or water that evening.  Having a divider for the trap really helps with this.  Before I had a divider I used a round paper coffee filter that I could slip inside the trap.  You do not want to open the trap. You will want to check on the cats several times during the evening.  I often keep a small light on and play soft music.  Do not allow other animals near the cat and keep human contact to a minimum.

5.  The next morning you can usually release the cat back to its original location.  Transport the cat in the trap to its feeding area and open the trap to release the cat.  Most will shoot out like a rocket.  Don’t be surprised if the cat doesn’t return for a few days.  I have had cats take a few hours to return, a day or two as well as some that do not return.  Most will return so make sure fresh water and food will be available.   The last step is to clean the trap.  You can use warm soap water and a scrub brush.  If necessary you can use a diluted bleach solution.

 

[tigger13]

Thank you both VERY much for the support and info!!!!