What Is The Best Canned Foods For A Senior Cat ( Age 11)?

kittyluv387

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This is all very frustrating. For example on the Hills site, t heir products are clearly listed as to protein, fat, carb, etc. When I look at other charts, their comparisons are different and I dont know how to make the conversions. Right now Hills Ideal Balance is looking like the best option...partly because I cant evaluate the more commercial brands.
Any reason you're trying to avoid fat? It's immensely more species appropriate than carbs. It's not harmful unless your cat is diabetic, in which case carbs should be limited too since it turns into sugar.
 

1claire

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My personal preference that I think my cat also loves is Nutro Max Canned Cat Food Chicken Supreme as it is made with only premium ingredients.
 
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myrnafaye

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Well, Mittens is 11 and I dont want her to be overweight. She is a good weight now. She is not very active.


Any reason you're trying to avoid fat? It's immensely more species appropriate than carbs. It's not harmful unless your cat is diabetic, in which case carbs should be limited too since it turns into sugar.
 
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myrnafaye

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It has guar gum and potato starch. I have looked at this line but I dont like the gums and other additives.


UOTE="1claire, post: 4888083, member: 10036664"]My personal preference that I think my cat also loves is Nutro Max Canned Cat Food Chicken Supreme as it is made with only premium ingredients.[/QUOTE]
 

daftcat75

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Well, Mittens is 11 and I dont want her to be overweight. She is a good weight now. She is not very active.
Cats burn fat for energy. Far better than they use carbs. Fat in food prevents cats from using protein for energy. Instead, they can save protein for maintaining lean tissue. As cats age, they get less nutrition from their food because their digestion slows down. They need all the protein you can feed them to keep from wasting. A moderate amount of fat helps them keep more of this protein for maintaining themselves vs burning it up as energy. Look for protein on a dry matter basis of greater than 50%. This can be anywhere from 9-11% or higher overall depending on how much moisture is in the food. The other thing to look for is calories. Make sure she's eating a pate with at least 1000 Kcal/Kg ME or more than 1 calorie per gram of food. Shredded and gravy textures tend to be more water and carbs and less protein and overall calories.
 
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myrnafaye

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I was looking at Hills Ideal balance. Protein 43.6; fat 20.6; carbs 27.1, phosphorus.88. You opinion would be greatly appreciated. and I dont know how to compare it, for example, with the Hounds and Gatos chicken analysis: Hound & Gatos Homestyle Chicken Cat Food
 

mizzely

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A dry matter basis calculator may help you

Eta: assuming I can find one that works lol
 
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myrnafaye

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I must be a dunce, I cannot figure out how to use it. (It is not here, it only showed up in my email.)


A dry matter basis calculator may help you

Eta: assuming I can find one that works lol
 

kittyluv387

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I was looking at Hills Ideal balance. Protein 43.6; fat 20.6; carbs 27.1, phosphorus.88. You opinion would be greatly appreciated. and I dont know how to compare it, for example, with the Hounds and Gatos chicken analysis: Hound & Gatos Homestyle Chicken Cat Food
The 1.3% is on a dry matter basis for Hound and Gatos. I've contacted them about it before. What's the moisture content on the Hill's Ideal balance?
 
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myrnafaye

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I dont know. It is not posted on Hillspet.com or on Chewy. I dont know why the h it is so difficult to compare canned cat foods; and why they give percentages bases on dry matter is beyond me. I am not giving them dry food, i want to know about the canned food. So what does 43.6 percent protein in Ideal mean in comparison with 10% minimum protein in the Hounds and Gatos Chicken recipe?? Meow!!


The 1.3% is on a dry matter basis for Hound and Gatos. I've contacted them about it before. What's the moisture content on the Hill's Ideal balance?
 

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Okay I figured out this calculator lol

Dog Food Guaranteed Analysis Calculator | K-9 Kraving

So in Product 1 line of each section you input the amounts from the can

So for Hounds and Gatos that you shared that is
10 protein
9 fat
1 fiber
78 moisture

Scroll down and it will have removed the moisture for you, leaving only the dry matter basis.

It has Product 1 and 2 so you can input information from two products at once is all

So for that food, Protein is 45.45%, fat is 40.91%, and fiber is 4.55%.

Fat won't make her fat. On the contrary, fat is very satiating. When combined with a high protein, low carb diet, it can help prevent a cat from over eating. Carbs are burned quickly, whereas protein and fat at burned slowly, making them feel fuller for longer.
 

lisahe

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It can indeed be very difficult to compare when the metrics are different. That's why it can be worth learning how to calculate the percentages on a dry matter basis, though this is very much a "garbage in, garbage out" sort of operation: you need good data from manufacturers to get a real sense of what's in the food. (This is why Weruva's site is so great: they offer the data in many formats. I wish other pet food companies did the same.) Dry matter figures are really important because you have to remove the water from the equation to know what's in the actual food. The varying percentages of water in foods ("as fed," which is a phrase frequently found when looking at the data) makes it impossible to compare until you take out the water. Taking out the water is like leveling the playing field. Here's a very decent article that explains dry matter and also looks at ingredient splitting.

This is probably way more than you want to know but... after sifting through cat food labels for (scary thought!) nearly six years now, I think my best advice is to first look at the ingredients. If I see carby ingredients, I immediately discard the food from consideration. (The Hill's Ideal Balance slow-cooked chicken, for example, includes brown rice, potato starch, rice starch, and two forms of peas, so would automatically be nixed.) I don't mean to pick on Hill's so I'll note that I also look for thickeners and other chemicals that I won't feed (Hound & Gatos has agar-agar, which I just don't know enough about because it's kinda-sorta similar to carrageenan, which I also won't feed because of study evidence that it's inflammatory to the digestive system). Not everybody's "no" lists are as constricting as mine but our cats have weird digestive systems and do best on very low carbs; there are enough foods without carrageenan and agar-agar that I can easily do away with those ingredients, too. (Feeding homemade has been a good decision!) Anyway, my point is that with hundreds or thousands of foods available, knowing your "nos" right away will make things a lot easier.

Although I try to keep the cats' foods all about protein and keep the carbs as low as possible, I don't worry about feeding some foods with relatively high fat. Even Dr. Pierson says that foods with 50% (and under) of calories from fat are fine, including for weight loss. She likes to see at least 40% of calories from protein. And less than 10% from carbs. There's nothing wrong with feeding some foods that are higher in fats, others that are lower. As mizzely mizzely says, fat is very satiating!

(Oops, for some reason some of yesterday's posts on this thread didn't load until mizzely's newest post came up... I'd already nearly finished this one so will just leave everything! And add a little more, too.)
 
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myrnafaye

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Lisahe, thanks for this input! I too am very wary of additives and thanks for the perspective on starches. So: I am not going to feed raw. That said, if YOU did not feed raw - what would you feed your babies?


It can indeed be very difficult to compare when the metrics are different. That's why it can be worth learning how to calculate the percentages on a dry matter basis, though this is very much a "garbage in, garbage out" sort of operation: you need good data from manufacturers to get a real sense of what's in the food. (This is why Weruva's site is so great: they offer the data in many formats. I wish other pet food companies did the same.) Dry matter figures are really important because you have to remove the water from the equation to know what's in the actual food. The varying percentages of water in foods ("as fed," which is a phrase frequently found when looking at the data) makes it impossible to compare until you take out the water. Taking out the water is like leveling the playing field. Here's a very decent article that explains dry matter and also looks at ingredient splitting.

This is probably way more than you want to know but... after sifting through cat food labels for (scary thought!) nearly six years now, I think my best advice is to first look at the ingredients. If I see carby ingredients, I immediately discard the food from consideration. (The Hill's Ideal Balance slow-cooked chicken, for example, includes brown rice, potato starch, rice starch, and two forms of peas, so would automatically be nixed.) I don't mean to pick on Hill's so I'll note that I also look for thickeners and other chemicals that I won't feed (Hound & Gatos has agar-agar, which I just don't know enough about because it's kinda-sorta similar to carrageenan, which I also won't feed because of study evidence that it's inflammatory to the digestive system). Not everybody's "no" lists are as constricting as mine but our cats have weird digestive systems and do best on very low carbs; there are enough foods without carrageenan and agar-agar that I can easily do away with those ingredients, too. (Feeding homemade has been a good decision!) Anyway, my point is that with hundreds or thousands of foods available, knowing your "nos" right away will make things a lot easier.

Although I try to keep the cats' foods all about protein and keep the carbs as low as possible, I don't worry about feeding some foods with relatively high fat. Even Dr. Pierson says that foods with 50% (and under) of calories from fat are fine, including for weight loss. She likes to see at least 40% of calories from protein. And less than 10% from carbs. There's nothing wrong with feeding some foods that are higher in fats, others that are lower. As mizzely mizzely says, fat is very satiating!

(Oops, for some reason some of yesterday's posts on this thread didn't load until mizzely's newest post came up... I'd already nearly finished this one so will just leave everything! And add a little more, too.)
 
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myrnafaye

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Thank you so much for this information! Hounds and Gatos looks like a better choice for my Mittens, and probably eventually for Yuki. I will call the company and ask them questions.




UOTE="mizzely, post: 4888362, member: 117932"]Okay I figured out this calculator lol

Dog Food Guaranteed Analysis Calculator | K-9 Kraving

So in Product 1 line of each section you input the amounts from the can

So for Hounds and Gatos that you shared that is
10 protein
9 fat
1 fiber
78 moisture

Scroll down and it will have removed the moisture for you, leaving only the dry matter basis.

It has Product 1 and 2 so you can input information from two products at once is all

So for that food, Protein is 45.45%, fat is 40.91%, and fiber is 4.55%.

Fat won't make her fat. On the contrary, fat is very satiating. When combined with a high protein, low carb diet, it can help prevent a cat from over eating. Carbs are burned quickly, whereas protein and fat at burned slowly, making them feel fuller for longer.[/QUOTE]
 

lisahe

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Lisahe, thanks for this input! I too am very wary of additives and thanks for the perspective on starches. So: I am not going to feed raw. That said, if YOU did not feed raw - what would you feed your babies?
I can answer that question quickly! We feed them commercial raw twice a day but we also feed them two meals a day of homemade cooked food, one made with Alnutrin, the other made with EZ Complete. Their fifth meal of the day is canned. They particularly love the homemade cooked foods!

Starches can be really problematic! Tapioca, for example, really raises the carbs in a lot of foods. I can feed some (like certain Soulistic foods) fairly drained occasionally, as a sort of supplementary food but wouldn't feed a lot.
 

kittyluv387

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Just subtract moisture content of 78 from 100. You're left with a dry matter amount of 22. Then you divide the as fed basis protein of 10 by 22. So you get 45%. It's easy to calculate dmb.

If you feed a diet high in protein and fat it just means that it takes less volume to satisfy your cat. More bang for your buck. Particularly true with pates. Here's some canned I like to feed:

Dr Elsey's - Turkey, Chicken
Hound & Gatos - Rabbit, chicken
Redbarn Turkey
Holistic Select
Rawz Rabbit
Evangers Super Premium Quail
 
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myrnafaye

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Thank you all for your responses. Now I have another question. I have generally mixed my cats' canned food with a small amount of dry for "crunch " and because they like it. Can I pls have recs for good dry foods? so far, from what I can see, they all seem to have starchy ingredients...
 

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Dr. Elsey's CleanProtein dry food. Highest amount of animal protein I have seen in a dry food. It is pricey, but since you are only giving it for a crunch, the smallest bag should last you a long time.
 
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myrnafaye

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Thank you so much for that rec! It looks great. Do your cats like the chicken or salmon flavored ? As far as price - I have been paying way more for my dry...Hill HP.



Dr. Elsey's CleanProtein dry food. Highest amount of animal protein I have seen in a dry food. It is pricey, but since you are only giving it for a crunch, the smallest bag should last you a long time.
 
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