Training a feral to use a litter box

[springmeadow]

Hi all! I'm new to the cat site and am highly enjoying everyone's posts!
I have been feeding the ferals in our neighborhood since we moved here 2 years ago. One feral boy is extra friendly and comes in the house to eat and nap in his own bed. We have unofficially adopted him. He gets his shots, but the veterinarian said it would be a risk to neuter him because he is about 10 years old and seems to always have very swollen lymph nodes and probably has feline aids ....
We love him to bits and are hoping to litter box train him so he stays in the house more.

I lured him into the box a couple times and he just tried eating it then spit it out!!! Then I put some leaves on the litter where I saw him go outside. Still not interested. The box is in the laundry room (which is off the kitchen) tucked between the wall and dryer, so its a little hard to lure him in there. We don't have him go in the bedrooms, as he smells a bit.

I do think someone was taking care of him once upon a time, but he wasn't litter trained.

I could really use help on this, as we are renting now and might move in the next year or two when we are able to buy something. I don't know how to take him with us if he's not litter trained, because I can't put him outside in a new environment where there are other stray cats.

This is killing me and I'm slowly trying to figure out how to get him to use the box. Help!

 

[springmeadow]

He's not a kitten like the top of the thread says. He's about 10 years old.

 

[Maria Bayote]

How about contain him in a room for a while or in a few hours with the litter box so he gets familiarized to its use. Cats normally automatically recognize a litter box. If it is a closed box, try to remove the top cover for a while.

Others here may have better suggestions.
Goodluck.

 

[springmeadow]

How about contain him in a room for a while or in a few hours with the litter box so he gets familiarized to its use. Cats normally automatically recognize a litter box. If it is a closed box, try to remove the top cover for a while.

Others here may have better suggestions.
Goodluck.

Should it be a small room, so he notices the box?
Do you think if I put him in the bathroom our smells may confuse him?
We wouldn't be keeping the box in the bathroom permanently, as it's up at half a flight of stairs and I'm sure my hubby wouldn't want to step in it in the middle of the night!

 

[Punxpunx]

Have u tried a different type of litter?

 

[shadowsrescue]

Have you tried Dr. Elsey Litter Attract? I have used it on all of the feral cats I have brought inside. Another trick, if he pees or pees inside instead of using the litter box, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it in the litter box. Same with the poop, but without the paper towel! Cats are attracted to their own scent.

Will he be strictly indoors now? If he is not neutered you don't want him out still getting females pregnant. Also there is a simple test to determine if he is FIV+

I have never heard of not neutering a cat because of FIV+ and age. A neuter is a very simple simple procedure. If you are taking ownership and know that he is not neutered you are contributing to the over population of cats by allowing him outside time to wander. If you want him to go outside and not neuter him, it would be best to build him a catio so he can still get outside without wandering and getting female cats pregnant.

Thank you for caring about this cat and doing your best.

 

[di and bob]

Get some DMG to keep his immune system up. Research it, it sure helps my cats with Leukemia. Make sure the litter you are using is non-clumping if he is tasting it. It can completely block their bowels if it is not, you can always change it later. The same with the litter box, put dirt or sand on top the litter for now so it looks more familiar, stop later. It has to be in plain sight for now to get him used to using it. It is inconvenience right now, but later you can move it a few feet a day until it is where you want it. A small room with the box is often used until they consistently use it. If he comes into the house, half your battle in moving him is already won. Set up a live trap, around 29.99 at Tractor supply, or get on Facebook for a used one, and get him used to eating in it. Set the food near the front at first and further back every few days. latch it and tie the door up so it doesn't trigger and put a 1/2 gallon milk bottle a third full of water in one corner, like it is propping the door open, so he gets used to that too. On the day you want to move him, get a length of twine or string and tie it around the bottle and untie and unlatch the door. Make sure it is undone by testing it. Do not let him see you! Then stand back about ten feet from the door with the string on the ground and in your hand. When he goes in and starts eating clear in the back pull the bottle out from under the corner of the door and he is trapped. I have done it many times. make sure you have a blanket to over him and the trap to calm him, he will be very scared. Move him and release him into a cage or room he cannot escape from. He has to be kept inside (hopefully forever) for at least 6-8 weeks to get used to his new home. a cat with FIV should be kept indoors, there are too many diseases out there. All the luck!

 

[springmeadow]

I finally caught him pooping outside and picked up the poop and put it in the litter box (which is still in the laundry room).
Either way, next time he comes in the house, I'll lead him over and see what happens!

 

[springmeadow]

Have you tried Dr. Elsey Litter Attract? I have used it on all of the feral cats I have brought inside. Another trick, if he pees or pees inside instead of using the litter box, sop up the urine with a paper towel and bury it in the litter box. Same with the poop, but without the paper towel! Cats are attracted to their own scent.

Will he be strictly indoors now? If he is not neutered you don't want him out still getting females pregnant. Also there is a simple test to determine if he is FIV+

I have never heard of not neutering a cat because of FIV+ and age. A neuter is a very simple simple procedure. If you are taking ownership and know that he is not neutered you are contributing to the over population of cats by allowing him outside time to wander. If you want him to go outside and not neuter him, it would be best to build him a catio so he can still get outside without wandering and getting female cats pregnant.

Thank you for caring about this cat and doing your best.

The idea with the towel is awesome. He is actually very good about not going in the house. Only 4 times in 2 years, and I think it was because I was sleeping on the couch and didn't hear him meow to go out.

I'm not 100% sure what the dr meant. I think he was saying that due to his really enlarged lymph nodes, that he was a very sick cat, and might not do well with surgery/ anesthesia. His English wasn't the best, but pretty good. I'm happy both drs in this clinic speak English!

He showed me how big 4 lymph nodes were, like golf balls. He told me to test their size after he finishes his antibiotics for the infected skin from scratching.

Were not supposed to have pets where we rent, so I can't really make him totally inside. Neutering will help keep him close to home.

Have you successfully trained a feral male to stay indoors all the time? We will take him when we are able to buy a place and move. Don't they still want to be outside to pee... or can these habits be changed?

 

[springmeadow]

Get some DMG to keep his immune system up. Research it, it sure helps my cats with Leukemia. Make sure the litter you are using is non-clumping if he is tasting it. It can completely block their bowels if it is not, you can always change it later. The same with the litter box, put dirt or sand on top the litter for now so it looks more familiar, stop later. It has to be in plain sight for now to get him used to using it. It is inconvenience right now, but later you can move it a few feet a day until it is where you want it. A small room with the box is often used until they consistently use it. If he comes into the house, half your battle in moving him is already won. Set up a live trap, around 29.99 at Tractor supply, or get on Facebook for a used one, and get him used to eating in it. Set the food near the front at first and further back every few days. latch it and tie the door up so it doesn't trigger and put a 1/2 gallon milk bottle a third full of water in one corner, like it is propping the door open, so he gets used to that too. On the day you want to move him, get a length of twine or string and tie it around the bottle and untie and unlatch the door. Make sure it is undone by testing it. Do not let him see you! Then stand back about ten feet from the door with the string on the ground and in your hand. When he goes in and starts eating clear in the back pull the bottle out from under the corner of the door and he is trapped. I have done it many times. make sure you have a blanket to over him and the trap to calm him, he will be very scared. Move him and release him into a cage or room he cannot escape from. He has to be kept inside (hopefully forever) for at least 6-8 weeks to get used to his new home. a cat with FIV should be kept indoors, there are too many diseases out there. All the luck!

I'll check into the dmg, thanks for the advice. And you have cats with leukemia too!

I've had success picking him up with a blanket and putting him in a crate to take him to the Dr. I can pet him for a nice while, but never tried to put him on my lap. He is attentive to house rules, hasn't tried to get on the counters. Being about 8 when I first met him when we moved into our place. The doctor was surprised he was able to easily handle him and thought he might have got a lot of human attention where he was born.

 

[springmeadow]

Get some DMG to keep his immune system up. Research it, it sure helps my cats with Leukemia. Make sure the litter you are using is non-clumping if he is tasting it. It can completely block their bowels if it is not, you can always change it later. The same with the litter box, put dirt or sand on top the litter for now so it looks more familiar, stop later. It has to be in plain sight for now to get him used to using it. It is inconvenience right now, but later you can move it a few feet a day until it is where you want it. A small room with the box is often used until they consistently use it. If he comes into the house, half your battle in moving him is already won. Set up a live trap, around 29.99 at Tractor supply, or get on Facebook for a used one, and get him used to eating in it. Set the food near the front at first and further back every few days. latch it and tie the door up so it doesn't trigger and put a 1/2 gallon milk bottle a third full of water in one corner, like it is propping the door open, so he gets used to that too. On the day you want to move him, get a length of twine or string and tie it around the bottle and untie and unlatch the door. Make sure it is undone by testing it. Do not let him see you! Then stand back about ten feet from the door with the string on the ground and in your hand. When he goes in and starts eating clear in the back pull the bottle out from under the corner of the door and he is trapped. I have done it many times. make sure you have a blanket to over him and the trap to calm him, he will be very scared. Move him and release him into a cage or room he cannot escape from. He has to be kept inside (hopefully forever) for at least 6-8 weeks to get used to his new home. a cat with FIV should be kept indoors, there are too many diseases out there. All the luck!

I can't easily find anyone else that sends out of the US without charging and arm and a leg for shipping.

I did find this on iherb that comes from Europe and is reasonably priced. I attached pictures. Is this the same thing?

 

[shadowsrescue]

The idea with the towel is awesome. He is actually very good about not going in the house. Only 4 times in 2 years, and I think it was because I was sleeping on the couch and didn't hear him meow to go out.

I'm not 100% sure what the dr meant. I think he was saying that due to his really enlarged lymph nodes, that he was a very sick cat, and might not do well with surgery/ anesthesia. His English wasn't the best, but pretty good. I'm happy both drs in this clinic speak English!

He showed me how big 4 lymph nodes were, like golf balls. He told me to test their size after he finishes his antibiotics for the infected skin from scratching.

Were not supposed to have pets where we rent, so I can't really make him totally inside. Neutering will help keep him close to home.

Have you successfully trained a feral male to stay indoors all the time? We will take him when we are able to buy a place and move. Don't they still want to be outside to pee... or can these habits be changed?

I have 7 cats right now. 6 of them were former feral or stray cats that had lived outside for many years. I moved 5 years ago. At that time I had 3 feral cats that I cared for living on my property. When I moved I knew they were coming along and I also knew I wanted them indoor only. it was nerve wracking caring for outside cats with so many dangers. I had neutered them all years ago. I was able to trap them all and move them to my new home. I used the Dr. Elsey Litter attract. I found the actual litter better than the mix in herbs. It worked like a charm. All of my cats adjusted to indoor only. I give them plenty of high places to climb and bird feeders outside for their enjoyment. You just have to be firm and keep the cat(s) away from doors and windows. Mine all learned to love the comforts of indoor only living. No more snow, cold, rain, wind or dangers from humans and other animals.

I would really suggest getting him tested for FIV and FELV. There is a huge difference between the two. FIV is also known as Feline Aids. It compromises the immune system. FELV is feline leukemia. It is dangerous and very very easily transmitted between cats. Some cats don't live very long with it. I have 2 FIV+ cats living in my house. I have used DMG for years and years to keep their immune system strong. Also feeding the best quality food you can afford. Wet food is best.

 

[springmeadow]

I have 7 cats right now. 6 of them were former feral or stray cats that had lived outside for many years. I moved 5 years ago. At that time I had 3 feral cats that I cared for living on my property. When I moved I knew they were coming along and I also knew I wanted them indoor only. it was nerve wracking caring for outside cats with so many dangers. I had neutered them all years ago. I was able to trap them all and move them to my new home. I used the Dr. Elsey Litter attract. I found the actual litter better than the mix in herbs. It worked like a charm. All of my cats adjusted to indoor only. I give them plenty of high places to climb and bird feeders outside for their enjoyment. You just have to be firm and keep the cat(s) away from doors and windows. Mine all learned to love the comforts of indoor only living. No more snow, cold, rain, wind or dangers from humans and other animals.

I would really suggest getting him tested for FIV and FELV. There is a huge difference between the two. FIV is also known as Feline Aids. It compromises the immune system. FELV is feline leukemia. It is dangerous and very very easily transmitted between cats. Some cats don't live very long with it. I have 2 FIV+ cats living in my house. I have used DMG for years and years to keep their immune system strong. Also feeding the best quality food you can afford. Wet food is best.

You've done great things there. I hope I have the same success.

Is the product pictures I sent above of this particular brand of dmg the same as what you use? It lists the drug ingredient in the picture, I forgot what it was!

 

[shadowsrescue]

I use VetriScience DMG and I am not familiar with the product you showed. I still think it would be best to have him tested to see if he has FIV or FELV. Most vets have an inhouse test called the SNAP test. It requires just a few drops of blood and the results are ready in 15-30 minutes. This way you know how to help him.

 

[springmeadow]

Have u tried a different type of litter?

Not yet, I will eventually.

 

[springmeadow]

I use VetriScience DMG and I am not familiar with the product you showed. I still think it would be best to have him tested to see if he has FIV or FELV. Most vets have an inhouse test called the SNAP test. It requires just a few drops of blood and the results are ready in 15-30 minutes. This way you know how to help him.

Thanks so much!

 

[springmeadow]

Thanks so much!

I checked the ingredients closely and it is the same thing! If you ever have another person you recommend this to outside the US, you can have them check on iherb.com
They mail around the world.

 

[springmeadow]

Have u tried a different type of litter?

I'm going to try that this week. Thanks

 

[tnrmakessense]

Hi all! I'm new to the cat site and am highly enjoying everyone's posts!
I have been feeding the ferals in our neighborhood since we moved here 2 years ago. One feral boy is extra friendly and comes in the house to eat and nap in his own bed. We have unofficially adopted him. He gets his shots, but the veterinarian said it would be a risk to neuter him because he is about 10 years old and seems to always have very swollen lymph nodes and probably has feline aids ....
We love him to bits and are hoping to litter box train him so he stays in the house more.

I lured him into the box a couple times and he just tried eating it then spit it out!!! Then I put some leaves on the litter where I saw him go outside. Still not interested. The box is in the laundry room (which is off the kitchen) tucked between the wall and dryer, so its a little hard to lure him in there. We don't have him go in the bedrooms, as he smells a bit.

I do think someone was taking care of him once upon a time, but he wasn't litter trained.

I could really use help on this, as we are renting now and might move in the next year or two when we are able to buy something. I don't know how to take him with us if he's not litter trained, because I can't put him outside in a new environment where there are other stray cats.

This is killing me and I'm slowly trying to figure out how to get him to use the box. Help!

So.... I'm a rescue mom of (undisclosed) years - here are my two cents. Almost all cats will instinctively use a box, unless they're terrified or have health issues. I've had newcomers that have jumped to the highest shelf in the closet and perched there for weeks. I put food and water up there but I finally learned to put a litter box there too after finding fossilized turds and pee puddles. If he's comfortable on the floor, try different things in different boxes. Newspaper in one, litter in another, maybe sand or dirt in a third. I'd shoot for unscented litter - nothing outside smells like scented litter. At the moment I'm using Purina Start and Grow unmedicated crumbles from Tractor Supply. it clumps, is low dust, and is cheaper than clumping litter.(thank you to someone on this forum who mentioned it.) Try putting newspaper on the floor - maybe the whole box thing is throwing him. Also a shallow cardboard box, like the flats that canned cat food comes in.

All that said, I have rescues that will pee in the box but poop on the floor. Another has a myriad of health issues, and does both on the floor. I have tile, and I own, so it's gross, but not a major issue. When these poor souls come in from being tossed out, or born outside, who knows what they've endured and what's going on inside their bodies. Take it one day at a time. And thank you for being kind to this poor little guy.