How To Tnr Neighborhood Ferals Without A Recovery Space?

[smosmosmo]

I live in a 2-bedroom apartment with housemates who don't allow cats in the common areas - my cat stays in my bedroom and spends time in a small adjoining 2-story foyer area. Recently we had a new tomcat move into the neighborhood and he's been spraying the front door and hanging outside yowling all day and night.

I want to get him TNR'ed ASAP, because he's stressing my cat out (the marking and crying happens right next to the areas where she hangs out and sleeps) and of course because he'll be making more cats without homes. The problem is, I don't have a space to hold him in while he recovers from surgery.

Does anyone have tips on what I could do given my situation? I've been wanting to TNR in my neighborhood for months but the lack of recovery space always deters me.

 

[FelisCatus]

Depends on the organization but I don’t believe a lot of them give cats a chance to recover? Maybe overnight one day at most in the clinic and then put back to where they were caught.

I might be wrong, other members will correct me if that’s the case.

 

[smosmosmo]

Whoa, I didn't know this! Is it safe for them to be released so early? I've been googling TNR resources in my city and was able to find vouchers for free spay/neuter, but the TNR guides I'm reading advise that you have a safe recovery space for them for at least a few days. It would be great if he could be released early though, I already have a trap.

 

[Willowy]

Males can be released as soon as they're fully recovered from the anesthetic. Which is usually overnight, unless your clinic uses inhalant anesthetic (but that costs more so usually not). Some clinics are willing/able to keep the cat overnight. Some don't/can't. Give them a call and see what their policies are.

For future efforts, is there a sympathetic person in the neighborhood who would let you use their garage?

 

[Jcatbird]

Explain to everyone that the spraying around the neighborhood would stop! Especially roomies. A large carrier in the foyer are if it is a safe place maybe. I like the idea of a neighbor’s garage. Ask around. You will be saving the cats and the neighborhood from a lot of future issues. Thanks for caring! I wish your roomies understood how important this is. I applaud you for going the extra effort to accomplish this. Way too many people are willing to just ignore the situation and turn their backs on a cat.
It’s really best if you can give him a couple of days at least but if he was in a feral colony, he might be released more quickly due to lack of resources.

 

[smosmosmo]

W Willowy That's good to know, my plan right now is contact a local TNR organization that offers free spay/neuter and see if an overnight stay is an option. Unfortunately my neighborhood is all apartments and duplexes with detached garages, and street parking is always tight so I don't think asking my neighbors for their garages would be an option.

Jcatbird They aren't animal people at all and the feral literally only sprays around my bedroom and foyer, since he smells my kitty and her litterboxes - so I am the only one who has to smell his urine, lol. There's a rescue in my city that handles TNR that doesn't service my neighborhood, but I'm hoping they'll make an exception re: boarding this cat if I feed, trap and transport him. I'd like to keep doing this with other ferals in my neighborhood if the rescue will help me out with boarding, since space in general is just so limited in my city. Kitten season's coming up, our shelters are always full, and it's not good to have all these unfixed toms running around.

 

[surya]

Google cat rescue on facebook and see if there is anybody who does TNR and might be able to keep the cat for recovery. Do you have your own bathroom? If so that would work.

 

[FelisCatus]

Do you have any cat boarders in your city? Where you pay for them to stay in a cage at someones place nightly?

Usually this is reserved for vaccinated, and non-strays/ferals but perhaps they can make an exception for you? Can’t hurt to give them a call and inquire.

Keep in mind it is usually $25-30 a night, but maybe they would go cheaper for you? Or be sympathetic since it’s for a feral.

If you provide your city I can look around online for you.

 

[Jcatbird]

I certainly understand. Sadly the Tom smell will bring others though so if you can get connected for this one it will be great! I am hoping it all works out well. If you offer to volunteer with the group nearest, you may find that they will help and even adore you!!!!

 

[kittypa]

I know it isn’t advisable, but especially with males you can get away with early release. Like willowy posted, as soon as the anesthesia is worn off. My experience is that the first thing he’s going to do when released is scamper off and hide somewhere for a while anyways. Do what you can. Don’t let it be a showstopper. Good luck.

 

[kittychick]

Meant to weigh in earlier - - -but the day somehow got away from me - - how does that happen?

First of all - -- what a wonderful thing you're hoping to do! BIG pat on the back for not just thinking kind thoughts, but actually researching AND planning to do something to help the kitty - - AND keeping unwanted kittens from being born! You're one in a million - - - and I think you're going to end up not only being the savior for this cat, but for others you encounter as you get through your "first one!" If I could hug you AND applaud you in person, I would!!!!!! Thanks from me (and I'm sure most people on this site!) for caring AND doing something about it!!!!!). The world TRULY needs more people like you!

(some of what I'm about to write may be echoed above - - - I read through everyone's's answers - -and you've got a couple of really great members advising you already. But I was so excited by someone actually doing their homework that I just had to weigh in!!!!!!!)

One GOOD note - - - neutering him will likely stop him from marking (not immediately - - hormones don't leave a cat's body instantaneously when they're fixed, but pretty quickly). This'll help the spraying (and hence, the smell!!!!!) immensely. Plus you probably have other neighborhood strays/ferals coming by (even if you don't see them!) and marking on top of what your guy's marking. The intense effort your guy's making to let your female know he's there gives me pause - is your indoor girl spayed? (if I missed that above -- - I apologize!) Usually a male exerting THAT much effort is due to a nearby female in heat that he wants everyone within "smelling range" to know is HIS! So if she's not spayed, I'd get her spayed right away if possible - -and make sure she's up-to-tadeall her shots - that would be the time to do it!

Not sure where you live (somewhere in the US? Is there truly no hope empt don't by any means need to tell if you don't want to!!!! it sometimes helps so we can offer what we know about resources in your specific area). But most US cities have spay/neuter clinics, with reduced prices on spaying/neutering and even shots and testing. And most will ONLY give you the reduced "TNR prices" if you bring the boy in a live trap and take him home that way. You can talk to your vet, but most don't want to - and don't have the proper equipment/retraints/etc. to work with ferals. So a feral-specific clinic is a smart way to do this.

THE most important step? Call the clinic you're planning on using ahead (most want to assign you a date - -which can be changed if you don't catch your guy). Plus - - alot of clinics will not do any spaying or neutering in extremely cold/bad weather (some don't even do it at all during winter months). You don't want to go through all of this for nothing! And they'll want to know he'll have a place to recuperate.

I highly recommend having him ear-tipped (just the tip of his left ear would be removed while anesthetized-----most clinics do that as a free service, but only for ferals who come into their clinic in a live trap). That way you and others who see him can tell he's already been fixed, so if he's trapped again the trapper (and vet) know he's already fixed, and he can be let go. Versus putting him through the stress of going to a clinic AND the stress of being put under etc, only to discover he's been neutered! It's a wonderful system that seems to be catching on all over the world!

I work my trap inside multiple times, making sure I understand how the trip works, how easily the trip plate goes off, etc. I then wire the trap open so he can't set it off, and set the trap near where he eats (place some newspaper under the trap), so he gets used to seeing it. After a few days, once he looks comfortable around the closed trap, then wire the trap open (so that it's open and he can come and go but CAN'T trip the trip plate), and place his food inside the trap for AT LEAST a few nights in a row before you're ready to "trap for real." It'll get him used to going into the trap to eat. Put food inside - -and use a food that he'll be SUPER attracted to - we use canned mackerel. It's SUPER stinky and works every time!

When you feel you AND the kitty are ready - make sure you don't put much food in it (the clinic will want his stomach as empty as possible when operating). DON'T leave the area while you're waiting to trap him - - keep a close eye on him! Bring a blanket or two to immediately throw over the trap and COMPLETELY cover it - - it'll REALLY calm him down (making the car trip to the clinic 8 MILLION TIMES EASIER!). Be sure that whatever you're going to transport him in - car/truck, etc. - that you first put a thick layer of newspapers right under where you're going to set the trap (makes "post transport clean-up" a TON easier!!!!!!!!!!!) I talk softly to the kitty the whole time we're driving - -- I look like an idiot at a light - - -but it usually helps. . Don't uncover him even at the clinic - - they'll return the blankets/sheets with the trap/cat (although use ones you don't care about, just in case).

So I'm guessing that, once trapped, putting him in the bathroom for just a bit until he can be transported to the clinic is out, as far as your roommates go? Try explaining how little time hd;ooif there's ANY way you can talk them into it (bribe them with something like a nice home coked dinner or brunch - - -or even just a bottle of wine or Tito's - -something easy- - -- - -life would be much easier. It would only be for a day (tops) before he goes for neutering, and hopefully only for a day - two tops) afterward if all goes well!

Females do need considerably more recuperating time and can't be done in severe cold as they have to have their bellies shaved, making them more susceptible to frostbite, etc. Boys heal quickly - - - with just a tiny bit of shaving. So generally a clinic will ask that you keep him out of the elements (and hopefully in a home somewhere) while he's healing - - and boys generally only need 24-48 hours recup time, tops (more is fine! But if you can keep him 24-48 hrs, most clinics are THRILLED!). If need be, he can be left in the trap while healing (we all hate doing that -- -but you're limited in where vyou can keep him, so I'd do the easiest way possible). So keep him in the trap (and keep it covered - don't forget - - - it'll cam him so much), and just slip some newspaper under the trap (change it at least 2-3 time a day). I slip small lids that I can put water in, and another for food - - but if that's too hard, just slip in something that you can used to hold water, and put his food right on the bottom of the carrier/newspaper. DON'T open the trap door!!!!! Not even for a second (once you've done it a few times, you'll learn tricks in how to do that, but for now - don't try. He might dart out - - and that's the last thing you want! Keep something like a chopstick, or long-handled iced tea spoon to flip back over the water "lid" and refill it (we fill using a plant waterer)... chances are about 100% that he'll flip it when no one's there..

Lastly - - -I know you're having trouble where to keep him. If your roommate (roommates?) just can't be convinced that it's only for a day or two

Meant to weigh in earlier - - -but the day somehow got away from me - - how does that happen?

First of all - -- what a wonderful thing you're hoping to do! BIG pat on the back for not just thinking kind thoughts, but actually researching AND planning to do something to help the kitty - - AND keeping unwanted kittens from being born! You're one in a million - - - and I think you're going to end up not only being the savior for this cat, but for others you encounter as you get through your "first one!" If I could hug you AND applaud you in person, I would!!!!!! Thanks from me (and I'm sure most people on this site!) for caring AND doing something about it!!!!!). The world TRULY needs more people like you!

(some of what I'm about to write may be echoed above - - - I read through everyone's's answers - -and you've got a couple of really great members advising you already. But I was so excited by someone actually doing their homework that I just had to weigh in!!!!!!!)

One GOOD note - - - neutering him will likely stop him from marking (not immediately - - hormones don't leave a cat's body instantaneously when they're fixed, but pretty quickly). This'll help the spraying (and hence, the smell!!!!!) immensely. Plus you probably have other neighborhood strays/ferals coming by (even if you don't see them!) and marking on top of what your guy's marking. The intense effort your guy's making to let your female know he's there gives me pause - is your indoor girl spayed? (if I missed that above -- - I apologize!) Usually a male exerting THAT much effort is due to a nearby female in heat that he wants everyone within "smelling range" to know is HIS! So if she's not spayed, I'd get her spayed right away if possible - -and make sure she's up-to-tadeall her shots - that would be the time to do it!

Not sure where you live (somewhere in the US? Is there truly no hope empt don't by any means need to tell if you don't want to!!!! it sometimes helps so we can offer what we know about resources in your specific area). But most US cities have spay/neuter clinics, with reduced prices on spaying/neutering and even shots and testing. And most will ONLY give you the reduced "TNR prices" if you bring the boy in a live trap and take him home that way. You can talk to your vet, but most don't want to - and don't have the proper equipment/retraints/etc. to work with ferals. So a feral-specific clinic is a smart way to do this.

THE most important step? Call the clinic you're planning on using ahead (most want to assign you a date - -which can be changed if you don't catch your guy). Plus - - alot of clinics will not do any spaying or neutering in extremely cold/bad weather (some don't even do it at all during winter months). You don't want to go through all of this for nothing! And they'll want to know he'll have a place to recuperate.

I highly recommend having him ear-tipped (just the tip of his left ear would be removed while anesthetized-----most clinics do that as a free service, but only for ferals who come into their clinic in a live trap). That way you and others who see him can tell he's already been fixed, so if he's trapped again the trapper (and vet) know he's already fixed, and he can be let go. Versus putting him through the stress of going to a clinic AND the stress of being put under etc, only to discover he's been neutered! It's a wonderful system that seems to be catching on all over the world!

I work my trap inside multiple times, making sure I understand how the trip works, how easily the trip plate goes off, etc. I then wire the trap open so he can't set it off, and set the trap near where he eats (place some newspaper under the trap), so he gets used to seeing it. After a few days, once he looks comfortable around the closed trap, then wire the trap open (so that it's open and he can come and go but CAN'T trip the trip plate), and place his food inside the trap for AT LEAST a few nights in a row before you're ready to "trap for real." It'll get him used to going into the trap to eat. Put food inside - -and use a food that he'll be SUPER attracted to - we use canned mackerel. It's SUPER stinky and works every time!

When you feel you AND the kitty are ready - make sure you don't put much food in it (the clinic will want his stomach as empty as possible when operating). DON'T leave the area while you're waiting to trap him - - keep a close eye on him! Bring a blanket or two to immediately throw over the trap and COMPLETELY cover it - - it'll REALLY calm him down (making the car trip to the clinic 8 MILLION TIMES EASIER!). Be sure that whatever you're going to transport him in - car/truck, etc. - that you first put a thick layer of newspapers right under where you're going to set the trap (makes "post transport clean-up" a TON easier!!!!!!!!!!!) I talk softly to the kitty the whole time we're driving - -- I look like an idiot at a light - - -but it usually helps. . Don't uncover him even at the clinic - - they'll return the blankets/sheets with the trap/cat (although use ones you don't care about, just in case).

So I'm guessing that, once trapped, putting him in the bathroom for just a bit until he can be transported to the clinic is out, as far as your roommates go? Try explaining how little time hd;ooif there's ANY way you can talk them into it (bribe them with something like a nice home coked dinner or brunch - - -or even just a bottle of wine or Tito's - -something easy- - -- - -life would be much easier. It would only be for a day (tops) before he goes for neutering, and hopefully only for a day - two tops) afterward if all goes well!

Females do need considerably more recuperating time and can't be done in severe cold as they have to have their bellies shaved, making them more susceptible to frostbite, etc. Boys heal quickly - - - with just a tiny bit of shaving. So generally a clinic will ask that you keep him out of the elements (and hopefully in a home somewhere) while he's healing - - and boys generally only need 24-48 hours recup time, tops (more is fine! But if you can keep him 24-48 hrs, most clinics are THRILLED!). If need be, he can be left in the trap while healing (we all hate doing that -- -but you're limited in where vyou can keep him, so I'd do the easiest way possible). So keep him in the trap (and keep it covered - don't forget - - - it'll cam him so much), and just slip some newspaper under the trap (change it at least 2-3 time a day). I slip small lids that I can put water in, and another for food - - but if that's too hard, just slip in something that you can used to hold water, and put his food right on the bottom of the carrier/newspaper. DON'T open the trap door!!!!! Not even for a second (once you've done it a few times, you'll learn tricks in how to do that, but for now - don't try. He might dart out - - and that's the last thing you want! Keep something like a chopstick, or long-handled iced tea spoon to flip back over the water "lid" and refill it (we fill using a plant waterer)... chances are about 100% that he'll flip it when no one's there..

Lastly - - -(and I know - - - one of your biggest issues - - - sorry to spend so much time on the rest of the stuff!!!!) -----I know you're having trouble where to keep him. If your roommate (roommates?) just can't be convinced that it's only for a day or two (and that's really - - -assuming it is indeed a male) - with no real complications, he can probably go back out in 24 hours. He'll be in the trap - so he won't take up much space. Do you have a decent closet? Not ideal - - but if you could make floor space for him there, and keep your kitty in the your other space - for just this one night, that would work. I'd leave the light 0n - -since he'll be covered with blankets/sheets, so he won't feel like a "stool pigeon. You'll just need to make sure he's always got water, and that food's available for him (just some dry in there - - if I've got a really difficult or aggressive kitty (and I know opening the crate door is going to be almost impossible - - only about 1 x out of 100 now), I make a funnel out of paper and pour the new kibble into his space.

If your roommates object to even this (I wouldn't know why - since it's YOUR space!) - -- check with other cat-loving friends. Remind them that he'll be away from you, and that you'll be the only one who'll need to have any kind of contact with ANY contact him, they just need to provide four walls, a roof over Aminhis heart awk. Ar jz!

Keep us up-to date --- lab

 

[fionasmom]

I leave all cats overnight at the vet's. Males at least overnight and females for a couple of days. Now here I am talking about the ones who are wild crazy adults that you cannot probably bring inside safely. Any cat who is manageable is kept inside a bathroom. Everyone has survived and thrived. Neutering will stop the behavior, but I did wonder about his attraction to your door. I had this happen once and found that my indoor female was urinating near the door because she did not want him there. Everything was ultimately resolved once the boy was fixed.

 

[kittychick]

Sorry my note above was so long. I just got on a roll - - and it was just too much to ask ANYONE to read - so sorry about that!!!! I'd been in bed sick all day, and it was like you were the first person I talked to and it became kind of a "forum vomit" - - sorry!

I also have no idea why I attached 2 very grainy pix of emojis - OR why I wrote "lab" when I signed off. I'm guessing 1 am after a high fever is not my best writing time.

DO keep us posted -- - I promise any follow-ups will be of normal length!