Help with urinating problem... possibly re-homing

[justme75]

Let me start by saying I have tried just about everything. I have three cats, two female, one male. They are 5,6,7 years old. All three are fixed and have been exclusively indoor cats since I got them, which was between 5-8 weeks of age. They use their litterboxes about 99% of the time. I have 4 throughout my house, I use the fine clay type clumping sand. I tried changing the sand in one box and they refused to use it so I know they are ok with the litter I am using. I scoop everyday and empty once a week. I have taken them to the vet and all are ok. For some reason one of them (or all of them, Im not sure) started urinating next to the litter box on the carpet. I moved the box to a tiled area of the house but now they keep going on that one spot. I have cleaned, shampooed, sprayed 4 different kinds of pet odor stuff, I have the Feliway spray and the plug in thing. I even put the plastic carpet runner upside down covering the whole area so the plastic poky things are up and they urinated right on the poky things!! They have moved with us twice and have done this at each house. One house they decided to use the sofa next to the litterbox. I am at my wits end and I am looking into re-homing them. I know having an animal is a comitment but I cannot let them ruin my carpet and furniture. I now have to replace the carpet in that room and its only a year old house. I feel like we are living in a litter box and the smell is terrible. Obviously they are using it most of the time because I check the carpet everyday and its about once a week to maybe every ten days they decide to pee there instead of the box. All three were rescue cats, found on the streets at very early ages, so I feel like I have tried my hardest to give them a good life but I am beginning to hate them because of this. I have yet to catch any of them doing it so I don't know if its just one are all three and I hate to get rid of them all if its just one. I am also very concerned because one of them would probably have to be put down. She turns into a Satan like creature when she is around anyone new. The vet told us in his 19 years he has never seen a cat so bad. Please help I will spend any money and try anything to be able to keep them!!

 

[darlili]

have you tried Cat Attract litter, and maybe Zero Odor on the spot they've been peeing in?

To me, that they're peeing right outside the box is perhaps saying they want to use the box, but something's wrong with it, at least periodically. Obviously, they seem to like hte location just fine!

I'd try a brand new box, Cat Attract (I've had wonderful luck with that litter), and making sure that there's no residual urine odor. For me, Zero Odor did work - you can get it at Bed Bath & Beyond, and they're good at returns if it doesn't work for you.

I've been there - I know it's frustrating as all get out. Good luck - I've been in tears myself, so I really hope something will work for you.

 

[stephanietx]

Have you read through this thread? It has tons of great suggestions and ideas.

http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9563

 

[icklemiss21]

With cat urine, you need not only an odour remover but an enzyme cleaner.

Cat attract litter, as mentioned above, can also help.

But about rehoming, there is a poster in most shelters that say the following (with a sad look on the cats and dogs face)

You love me and can't deal with my issues, so why would someone who hasnt lived with me long enough to love deal with them

Think about that before you rehome your cats, because with issues, chances are they will be returned to you

 

[otto]

Originally Posted by icklemiss21

With cat urine, you need not only an odour remover but an enzyme cleaner.

Cat attract litter, as mentioned above, can also help.

But about rehoming, there is a poster in most shelters that say the following (with a sad look on the cats and dogs face)


Think about that before you rehome your cats, because with issues, chances are they will be returned to you

Or more likely dumped in the woods or along the side of the road somewhere.

I understand your despair, but please don't give up on them. There's got to be a reason, you just haven't found it yet.

Perhaps the boxes are too small?

I know you said they've been to the vet but you did not mention if their urine was checked. Did all three cats have urinalysis done?

That is the only way to check for UTI or crystals. If they have not, I suggest you have this done on all of them before going any further. In fact I recommend you ahve it redone, even if it already has been. Mistakes can be made.

The urine samples should be sent to a lab for in depth testing.

 

[ldg]

I'm so sorry you're having these problems. We had a kitty that was not ill, but was peeing outside of the box, and we know how frustrating it can be. Ours had the problem before Cat Attract litter existed, and apparently that alone (with proper cleaning of the soiled sites) can solve the problem in many cases.

That said, because they continue to pee over and over on the same spot, it is apparent you have not removed the scent to the satisfaction of their noses, which is what makes the difference between continuing to pee there or not. As someone mentioned, an enzyme cleaner MUST be used. The best one we've found is called Nok-Out. It is not sold in stores. http://www.nokout.com

It is expensive. There is a home-made alternative that apparently works very well. Here are the instructions:

it works like a charm.
you will need the following:
1 Gallon of Hydrogen Peroxide (you can purchase this size at a beauty supply store...if none in your area,
you can buy quart sized bottles or even smaller and use a cleaned out gallon bottle (like a milk jug)
2 Tablespoons of baking soda
a few drops of any liquid dish soap (I used Dawn)
(It is important that once you mix these ingredients together, it MUST be used IMMEDIATELY!)

Mix all ingredients together in gallon jug, re-cap and shake well. USE IMMEDIATELY!
Saturate affected area very well. The area, once well saturated, should be very squishy when pressure is applied. Let set as is for 24 hours. Blot (do NOT apply excessive pressure, simply blot) excess wetness with papertowels (if you use rags, you'll need to discard them because of the chemical change, so I highly recommend paper toweling. Let the area thourghly dry. DO NOT USE heat lamps, hair dryers or any thing to speed up the drying process. It is important that it air dry naturally, as the peroxide continues to work.
Once the area is completely dry, the odor is G O N E!!!

The reason for the squishy saturation is because the pet urine, especially cat, goes thru everything. This mixture, if applied as directed, will go thru the carpeting, thru the carpet backing, thru the carpet backing and will also penetrate the subflooring, which if it is wood or concrete, is very porous and will absorb the urine as well. If the odor is NOT gone, you didn't apply enough liquid to completely saturate all layers, which I guarantee if you do and let it completely dry on it's own, it will work. I actually took a syringe used to inject medication (needle and all), filled it from the jug and injected it thru the carpeting as far down as I could get it to make sure all the stink would be gone! IT WAS!!!!

My friend uses and recommended I also use a watering can, the kind you use for garden plants, as the liquid will flow the head of the sprinkler evenly as you pass it over the soiled and smelly area. I found that this method of application really is the best way to dispense the mixture.

Two of my male cats completely 'christened' my livingroom, the ENTIRE perimeter of the room around all four walls, in addition to areas along side my sofa and loveseat. They also got a cushion on one of the sofas, and the back bottom corner of a recliner. This mixture took care of all that mess without staining or discoloring my forest green carpeting or the light floral chintz fabrics of the furnature."

Here is the post: http://www.thecatsite.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=13

If you have simply sprayed a pet odor remover on the spot - even if an enzyme cleaner, this will not work. The area, as pointed out in the post quoted above, must be SOAKED. Cat urine wicks, and you must get it down through the padding and into the floor boards. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It should take DAYS to dry if done correctly. ...and you cannot "cheat" and use a dryer or something on it. It MUST air dry to be effective.

Also, while it is drying, consider purchasing those doggie wee-wee pads (large ones) from the pet store. Put it down under the litter box and make sure it covers the area soaked with the enzyme cleaner. If they continue to go there, the wee-wee pad will absorb the pee, and you can just throw it away and replace it with a clean one.

Please, please, please read this thread about Cat Attract litter! Cat Attract certainly does attract the cats! At the Cat Attract (Precious Cat by Dr. Elsley) website, you can type in your zip code to find a dealer. If there isn't one near you, you can ask a local store to order it - or order it online from Petsmart or something. http://www.preciouscat.com/

If these solutions don't work, there are other things to try.

 

[iheartmycats]

Please keep trying! There are tons of great suggestions posted! As a volunteer for a rescue, I can tell you that your chances of finding someone willing to take 3 older cats which at least one or more has innappropriate elimination issues is pretty much zero. Taking them to a shelter would basically equal euthanasia. I don't know what area of the country you are in, but where I am all the rescue groups are beyond full and not accepting owner surrenders--especially ones that are pretty much unadoptable. I'm not trying to make you feel bad, I just wanted to make sure you were aware of the improbability of finding them a good home.

 

[strange_wings]

Wow Laurie, that would completely destroy my floors. I have a home from the 60s that has oak hardwood flooring that was hidden under carpet - there's still a couple carpets down and I intend to pull them up because the hardwood looks great.. That amount of heavy saturation would cause major swelling and maybe even warping.

Check your floors out before you follow instructions online that could possibly damage them or at the very least result in a lot of sanding/or possible wood being replaced. If you're renting, definitely do not do this without checking with your landlord.
You need to get the smell up, but not destroy your house in the process.

 

[furbum]

Well, sounds like your cats have decided that carpet is a valid litter box. One of my cats feels that way too. I've had to cover up every area of carpet she likes to pee on with carpet protector. Yah, sometimes she goes on that, but it's rare. And when she does it's a free urine sample to bring to the vet for testing.

It's hard to retrain them when they find something they like to go on. They've had a taste of how pleasant it can be to go on the carpet. Why would they want to use the box anymore? The carpet's soft and warm. The litter is cold and smells funny. Cats like to hide their pee. Carpet seems like a decent hiding place, but if you cover it up with something hard or get rid of it the box will look more desirable

 

[ldg]

Originally Posted by strange_wings

Wow Laurie, that would completely destroy my floors. I have a home from the 60s that has oak hardwood flooring that was hidden under carpet - there's still a couple carpets down and I intend to pull them up because the hardwood looks great.. That amount of heavy saturation would cause major swelling and maybe even warping.

Check your floors out before you follow instructions online that could possibly damage them or at the very least result in a lot of sanding/or possible wood being replaced. If you're renting, definitely do not do this without checking with your landlord.
You need to get the smell up, but not destroy your house in the process.

How do you remove cat pee? Even the enzyme cleaners require that you thoroughly soak the area - carpeting and padding down to the floor boards. The only difference is the ingredients, not how you use it. ????????

And yes, people who've had cats with ongoing peeing problems have had to redo their floors.

...But the cat pee itself can ruin the floor, so I don't really see the issue - the smell must be removed one way or the other. It (cat pee) discolored the hardwood floor in our old home. The next home had some kind of plywood type base so it didn't ruin anything.

But the pee is the problem to begin with - so I'm not sure how the use of something to at least remove the smell to prevent ongoing peeing is going to make things worse.

....but that's why the argument for spending the money for the Cat Attract litter makes sense to begin with.

 

[strange_wings]

Originally Posted by LDG

How do you remove cat pee?

On those floors? Easy, no carpet.

The den and the tiny den bathroom still have carpet but haven't been peed on - those don't have nice hardwood under them. That carpet will go someday because it's cream colored in a room with a fireplace.

I have one kitty that occasionally stress pees on things, but not the carpet. Past cats that stress peed always went after bedding...

People renting just need to be careful because the landlord may want it done by an outside company or they may want to rent a shampooer for it.

 

[ldg]

But if the pee has soaked down to the floor boards, a shampooer won't get rid of it.

 

[strange_wings]

Originally Posted by LDG

But if the pee has soaked down to the floor boards, a shampooer won't get rid of it.

Does the average person that doesn't own cats know this? A landlord may allow pets but not have any or have encountered the problem themselves.


ETA: I'm just pointing this out as a word of caution to any renters reading.

But I agree, if you can avoid the problem or stop it early on, all the better!

I'd try the Cat Attract myself if I didn't have a cat that can't use clay or get red eyes from dusts.(he'll also cough if I don't keep things swept and dusted well - I worry about future asthma in him.

)

 

[ldg]

Personally, having rented for most of my life, I'm betting that if there's carpeting down, no matter what's under it, the landlord isn't likely lifting up the carpet unless the carpet needs to be replaced.

Of course, anyone renting should use their own judgment on how to handle the situation. But the point is that if the pee has soaked through the carpet and padding and down to the floor boards (which any regular size pee usually will), the smell is NOT gone to the cat's nose unless it is also removed from the padding and floor boards - and they only way to get to those is by soaking the area with the enzyme or home-made hydrogen peroxide cleaner.

 

[gailuvscats]

I have a carpeted area that my cat continues to soil on occassion, over the past few years. I use the hydrogen peroxided solution, but it only keeps the smell down for a while, eventually the smell, actually a worse funky smell, comes back with no additional urinating. I have treated the area repeatedly, things stop stinking a while, and then maybe a few months later, voila, it stinks! I confirm it by rubbing my hand over it and smelling my hand, and peeu! Not wet, just stinky so I treat again, and it is good for a few months, and then stink again. My only solution, I think, is to cut the carpet so I can take out the pad, and scrub the back of the carpet, let it dry, and then put in new pad, and tape the carpet back, hoping it will look like nothing happened, but I don't have the nerve. I think it will look like carpet with a big slash down the side. I ahve only found the peroxide to be a temporary fix for which I am grateful, but temporary none the less.

 

[ldg]

I've never tried the hydrogen peroxide. Bummer to hear that.

Have you tried treating the area with an actual enzyme cleaner? The one we use is Nok-Out. It sometimes took more than one application, but we did it one right after the other, and the smell never came back. I posted a link before, but it's http://www.nokout.com It was a bit of a battle to get it out of the couch cushion, but we won.