Cat pooping in bathtub. I can't think of anything else to do.

[lokiandsmokey]

A rule of thumb with kitties is to have 1 litter box per kitty plus 1 more. So, if you have two kitties, you should use 3 litter boxes. Have you tried adding another litter box so you have three?

How about a covered litter box? I'm not fond of them, but some kitties do prefer a bit more privacy. Also, the location can play a role. Are the boxes in a private area with nothing to distract or startle them? How close together are the boxes? Maybe try moving them further apart...or closer together. I have found that sometimes even changing the direction a box faces can make a difference.

How often do you clean the litter boxes? Kitties are very scent-oriented, so although a totally spotless litter box is pleasing to us, it can cause them to go outside the box just to add their scent so other kitties know they have been there. For example, I scoop my kids' litter boxes daily, but only completely change out litter and wash their boxes once every six months. And even then, I space out the box cleaning so that only one at a time is completely cleaned at a time. E.g. 'W' box is completely cleaned one week, 'X' box is completely cleaned the next week, 'Y' box is completely cleaned the next week, and 'Z' box is completely cleaned the next week. (I have three kitties, so four boxes.)

It also might be time for a fecal examination by the vet to see if all parasites/worms are gone.

I agree with others about a grain-free canned food (maybe even balanced raw diet if you're up for it

) and using a probiotic during the transition. On a kibble (dry) food diet, kitties can not drink enough water to make up for the low moisture content of kibble. Dogs and humans have a thirst drive/mechanism, but kitties not so much, so they won't drink enough water to stay hydrated even if you have 10 bowls of water out for them (wee bit of an exaggeration

). Therefore, they will be in a perpetual state of dehydration which can lead to health issues down the road. Kitties are obligate (true) carnivores and biologically/physiologically built to get the moisture (water) they need from the foods they eat.

A covered box in the living room, a regular one in the kitchen and now one in the bathtub along with the doggy pads in the bathtub. Their vet visit was just a week ago would the stuff work that fast? I scoop twice a day but we have only had the kittens for about a month, so I have not done a major cleaning outside a quick soap and water wash when I first got them home from the store before I filled them. They had the pine litter from the shelter but they didn't seem to like that so I got clumping litter and they stopped pooping beside the box and started going in it but Smokey persists in pooping once or twice a day in the bathtub. I have seen him use the box to pee and poop but at least once he just has to do it in the corner of the tub?

 

[lokiandsmokey]

I gave them some of the Friskies

mixed in with their dry food right after this post and Smokey just now pooped almost straight liquid

of course he moved the pad out of the way first and then pooped in the bathtub 

. I'll have no choice but to feed all dry if just mixing a half a can in with his dry makes him poop liquid. His poops are normally soft but still not liquid.

 

[otto]

Oh dear, half a can is definitely too much to start with, for dry fed cats. I'm sorry I wasn't more specific. Cats do need food changes to be done very very slowly.

A teaspoon of canned, once a day, would be where to start. Not mixed with the dry. Just give them each a teaspoon of canned by itself. A teaspoon a day for a week, and of course the probiotic mixed in. Then the next week, two teaspoons a day, say one in the morning and one at night. The next week three teaspoons. And so on. The probiotic is very important.

Food transitions are never done quickly. They take a long time, and yes, some trial and error. Remember that if friskies doesn't agree with them there are plenty of other choices. And even with friskies, one formula might not work, when another friskies formula will.

It can be done. And it is so so worth it. Many of us have done food transitions with our cats, either from dry to wet or canned to raw, or even dry to raw.

It can be done. A few months of effort now can save you hundreds in vet bills, and so much stress for your cats, in the future. Especially with male cats. Cats are so dehydrated on dry diets, their urine is so concentrated, urinary tract problems are rampant. And the male cat has very narrow urethra. The danger of blockage is very high. In another forum I post in there is a thread on Perenial Urethrostomy that is constantly being updated with new members looking for advice because their male cat has blocked and the vet is advising the PU surgery. All are or were fed dry diets. Most of them, their vets never even ask about diet, except to recommend some "prescription" diet, usually dry.

But, back on topic with the pooping out of the box, I do agree with the member who suggested that another de-worming may need to be done. Often cats blame the litter box for discomfort and so try pooping else where. Anyone, including a cat, who is pooping 3 times a day has got to be experiencing some discomfort.

But hang in there with the canned food, just start with much much less. Wait until you get some probiotic if you want, before starting again.

 

[lokiandsmokey]

Oh dear, half a can is definitely too much to start with, for dry fed cats. I'm sorry I wasn't more specific.

Cats do need food changes to be done very very slowly.
A teaspoon of canned, once a day, would be where to start. Not mixed with the dry. Just give them each a teaspoon of canned by itself. A teaspoon a day for a week, and of course the probiotic mixed in. Then the next week, two teaspoons a day, say one in the morning and one at night. The next week three teaspoons. And so on. The probiotic is very important.
Food transitions are never done quickly. They take a long time, and yes, some trial and error. Remember that if friskies doesn't agree with them there are plenty of other choices. And even with friskies, one formula might not work, when another friskies formula will.
It can be done. And it is so so worth it. Many of us have done food transitions with our cats, either from dry to wet or canned to raw, or even dry to raw.
It can be done. A few months of effort now can save you hundreds in vet bills, and so much stress for your cats, in the future. Especially with male cats. Cats are so dehydrated on dry diets, their urine is so concentrated, urinary tract problems are rampant. And the male cat has very narrow urethra. The danger of blockage is very high. In another forum I post in there is a thread on Perenial Urethrostomy that is constantly being updated with new members looking for advice because their male cat has blocked and the vet is advising the PU surgery. All are or were fed dry diets. Most of them, their vets never even ask about diet, except to recommend some "prescription" diet, usually dry.
But, back on topic with the pooping out of the box, I do agree with the member who suggested that another de-worming may need to be done. Often cats blame the litter box for discomfort and so try pooping else where. Anyone, including a cat, who is pooping 3 times a day has got to be experiencing some discomfort.
But hang in there with the canned food, just start with much much less. Wait until you get some probiotic if you want, before starting again.

Oh wow. Yeah I mixed a 5.5oz can with half a cup of dry.  The dewroming was only done a few weeks ago is it safe to do it again so soon? I have not seen any worms but they were shelter kitties so who knows what they might have?

 

[bad cat chris]

I know your problem well.  I eventually solved it (mostly) with Dr. Eisley's cat attract litter.

 

[otto]

Oh wow. Yeah I mixed a 5.5oz can with half a cup of dry.  The dewroming was only done a few weeks ago is it safe to do it again so soon? I have not seen any worms but they were shelter kitties so who knows what they might have?

A de-worming, if drontal is used, is usually done twice; 3 weeks apart. This is because the medication only kills adult worms. The second de-worming catches all that have matured since the first round.

If topical profender is used, another round is not necessary because Profender works for 30 days.

Because he pulled the puppy pad out of the way and used the tub again, I am still wondering if an empty box might work. He seems to want to do that extra poop on a hard cool surface.