Fungus growing on urine in litter box

cmshap

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First of all, I scoop my cat's litter twice a day. Once in the morning before I leave the house, and again when I return about 9 hours later. It is in this time span that a white, fuzzy fungus starts growing on his urine clumps in the box while I am away.

Litter is Dr. Elsey's Respiratory Relief, which is the best for him as he has respiratory issues. I completely changed the litter about every two weeks (even though I'd like to do it less frequently, because the litter gets expensive), and I wash the interior of the box with dish soap in the process. The fungus doesn't start appearing for a few days after washing out the box, but then inevitably starts showing up.

An important point I'm certain is related: I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, right along the lakefront. Our winters are cold, and in winter months, the air is super dry, and this problem does not occur. But in summer, since I live right by Lake Michigan, the air gets damp. It's during the summer months when this problem starts happening.

I could close my windows and run the air conditioner to keep the air cooler and drier in summer, but my cat really enjoys the open windows during the day while I am gone.

Another point: it is a covered box. I started him with a covered box early in his life because it led to the best litter box habits. He always used the box when it was open, but he wasn't always getting all of his business inside the box. He would climb inside, but squat with his butt along the edge, leading to messes outside the box. I would guess that uncovering the box might help this issue, but it's something I haven't tried yet (after years with a covered box, maybe he has trained himself to climb deeper inside and will do so with an open box, now).

Is there anything I could add to the litter to prevent this? I considered trying baking soda to keep it drier inside.

Also, is this fungus potentially harmful?
 

Alldara

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It's certainly the humidity that causes this. Running a dehumidifier helps.

I also found that I needed to change my litter. This was happening to me on Naturally Fresh. I worry that it lead to a fungal infection in my now late cat Lily as she was immunocompromised. Nobel didn't develop any issues. I don't have any proof that it was the cause.
 
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cmshap

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It's certainly the humidity that causes this. Running a dehumidifier helps.
I also found that I needed to change my litter.
Thanks. I have an open-design apartment, and I gave up on dehumidifiers years ago because the space is too big for them to work.

However, you gave me the idea of putting a dedicated one right in the litter box area. The box is in a hallway, where the space is more confined.

Also, regarding switching litter, I feel reluctant to do that, because my cat has chronic respiratory issues. He is a frequent sneezer, and it took several tries before I found Dr. Elsey's Respiratory Relief, which minimized his sneezing when digging in the box.

If anyone is reading this and knows of another litter like that I could try, please let me know.
 

Alldara

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Thanks. I have an open-design apartment, and I gave up on dehumidifiers years ago because the space is too big for them to work.

However, you gave me the idea of putting a dedicated one right in the litter box area. The box is in a hallway, where the space is more confined.

Also, regarding switching litter, I feel reluctant to do that, because my cat has chronic respiratory issues. He is a frequent sneezer, and it took several tries before I found Dr. Elsey's Respiratory Relief, which minimized his sneezing when digging in the box.

If anyone is reading this and knows of another litter like that I could try, please let me know.
Okocat paper litter is truly dust-free and not "dust-free" meaning reduced dust.

If you want anything actually dust free, it would be anything that isn't clumping litter. That's a big change for most people so I can understand if it's not something you're interested in. Clumping agents are usually powder, so they make dust just like baking soda or flour does.

Similar are:
Exquisite Cat paper pellets
Yesterday's News
Special Kitty paper pellets

But Okocat is the only one that claims to be good for cats with respiratory issues or sneezing

I've heard from others that the following are also good:
Fresh News
Cat Spot
 

Cat.mama

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First of all, I scoop my cat's litter twice a day. Once in the morning before I leave the house, and again when I return about 9 hours later. It is in this time span that a white, fuzzy fungus starts growing on his urine clumps in the box while I am away.

Litter is Dr. Elsey's Respiratory Relief, which is the best for him as he has respiratory issues. I completely changed the litter about every two weeks (even though I'd like to do it less frequently, because the litter gets expensive), and I wash the interior of the box with dish soap in the process. The fungus doesn't start appearing for a few days after washing out the box, but then inevitably starts showing up.

An important point I'm certain is related: I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, right along the lakefront. Our winters are cold, and in winter months, the air is super dry, and this problem does not occur. But in summer, since I live right by Lake Michigan, the air gets damp. It's during the summer months when this problem starts happening.

I could close my windows and run the air conditioner to keep the air cooler and drier in summer, but my cat really enjoys the open windows during the day while I am gone.

Another point: it is a covered box. I started him with a covered box early in his life because it led to the best litter box habits. He always used the box when it was open, but he wasn't always getting all of his business inside the box. He would climb inside, but squat with his butt along the edge, leading to messes outside the box. I would guess that uncovering the box might help this issue, but it's something I haven't tried yet (after years with a covered box, maybe he has trained himself to climb deeper inside and will do so with an open box, now).

Is there anything I could add to the litter to prevent this? I considered trying baking soda to keep it drier inside.

Also, is this fungus potentially harmful?
I came across this post while looking for cat litter. I’m glad I did. I’ve noticed when doing full clean outs of my boxes, areas around the walls have greenish textured splotches. I’ve just assumed it was dust particles from the litter. Every time I scoop the litter lately it’s leaving wet/damp spots where the balls are touching up against the wall. I’m sure that’s happening on the bottom as well.
I have 4 boxes. One I recently replaced , it was a very cheap box from Chewy’s. This box was very scratched up and would always be the worst covered in the texture. That’s why I figured it had to do with the material/ litter penetration.
Wondering now if this is mildew , not dust particles . It’s very humid here.
On a side note , I don’t know how it can leave any moister when it’s so damn dusty!
 

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Clean the litter box with soap and water then disinfect using Clorox bleach mixed at 1 cup to 1 gallon of hot water. Rinse really well using clear water then let the box dry, completely. Next, mix "Twenty Mule Team Borax" in hot water until you can't dissolve any more. (i.e. Make a saturated solution.) Rinse the litter box with the borax solution and let dry. You might see some white powder on the surface when it dries. That's okay. Just wipe with a cloth.

Also, while you are cleaning, treat the area around the litter box, too.

Once sterilized with chlorine bleach, all living mold will be destroyed. Any spores left over will not grow because mold can not grow in the presence of borax.

(Borax is no more toxic to cats than ordinary laundry detergent.)
 

IzzysfureverMom

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I personally feel it is better to replaced the whole box. I have had litter box issues here with the humidity. Since there are both people and a cat with asthma we run the AC and have not had any anymore issues. The humidity needs to be addressed AC or dehumidifier may help.
In my view I would be very carefully with bleach (caustic) and borax. I like borax for certain things, but my vets office actually list it as toxic to cats. They also don't recommend bleach.Though there is no specific information at when borax becomes toxic. They do list the damage it can cause.For ten pound cats with their face inches above the litter it maybe not good. This is just my opinion regarding my cats. One who has asthma and very bad breathing issues with strong or scented products.
The other thing I might be concerned about is litter box avoidance.
 
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Caspers Human

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The toxic level of borax is approximately 1 gram per kilogram of body weight. It would take approximately 4.5 grams of borax to make a cat sick. That's about a teaspoon's worth. The amount of borax that one would apply, let dry then wipe away the residue is much less than that. Besides, the cat would have to actually ingest the borax to get sick. I don't know many cats that lick their litter boxes but I can't imagine that it would be very many.

The symptoms of borax toxicity are neausea, vomiting, diarrhea and indigestion. Borax is about as dangerous as laundry soap. (Which often contains borax.)

As to the Clorox, you're supposed to rinse the item with clear water and let it dry before using it. Properly done, there should be no chlorine residue left over after cleaning.

Litter box avoidance should not be an issue because, as stated, all of the soap and bleach residue should have been rinsed away. If it hasn't been, the job hasn't been done right. Borax has virtually no smell unless you stick your nose right into the box.

I'd be more concerned about the plasticizing agents in the plastic that the litter box is made from harming the cat than borax.
 

IzzysfureverMom

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The original post in this post in this thread was begun in July 2023. So my post was directed at both respiratory and fungal issues. Her cat had respiratory issues. Having had/ have cats with significant immune issues and asthma, her more mild approach to litter box cleaning is very appropriate.With a fungus issue as I stated before it maybe better to start fresh. Having a cat with severe asthma ,when I clean boxes ( mild detergent )I literally let them air out for two days and just use others boxes.That is how sensitive she is. Sure I can use a rescue inhaler;however, heavy use of those can cause heart issues. The way I handle things here maybe very cautious, but I believe better for cats with immune/ asthma issues. I am really not fond of rushing a cat to the ER vet at 2 in the morning because they cannot catch their breathe . It is beyond distressing.
 

cejhome

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It might be happening because of the covered box - lack of air circulation and dark place. We live in Florida, and have never had an issue with fungus in our cat's litter box. I use the Respiratory Relief litter as well. We don't have a dehumidifier. I scoop several times a day. I use a large, deep plastic storage bin that I cut an opening in for Buddy. No lid. The box is in a large closet. I do a total box refresh once a month. Buddy is an only cat (He doesn't like other cats, and he definitely wouldn't want to share attention.) Maybe up the number of times a day you scoop?

I wouldn't reuse the current box you have, in case the the fungus or whatever it is, is spread by spores.

I would prefer to use a non-clay litter, but have heard negative things from folks here in humidity land. Wood/grain/grass based litters have caused issues with not only weird things growing on them, but bad decay smells, ants, moths and other critters.
 
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Alldara

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Please do not use bleach on a litter box if you choose to wash it. It is not safe to use bleach to clean up urine. The ammonia mixed with bleach makes a toxic gas.
 

Caspers Human

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No reasonable person should apply undiluted bleach directly onto a dirty litter box without scrubbing with soap and water then rinsing clean, first.

I thought my instructions were clear but I can spell it out:
  1. Physically remove all waste and cat litter from the box and dispose of it in the garbage.
  2. Take the litter box outside or, if indoors, to a safe place with plenty of cross-ventilation where you can work without making a mess.
  3. Rinse the litter box with hot water. Wear impermeable, rubber gloves. A heavy, waterproof apron and safety goggles are strongly advised.
  4. When you have washed out the bulk of the cat waste with hot water, use soap, hot water and a scrub brush to thoroughly clean all surfaces of the litter box, inside and out.
  5. When you are done scrubbing out the box, rinse well. Fill the box one third full of clean water, agitate so that all surfaces are rinsed in clean water. Repeat this step at least three times.
  6. Allow the box to air dry before proceeding. Place the box outdoors in the sun or in an appropriate place with plenty of ventilation until it is completely dry.
  7. Don your rubber gloves, apron and safety goggles. Take the litter box and your supplies outdoors or to an appropriate place, indoors, with plenty of ventilation.
  8. Fill a sturdy bucket with one gallon of hot tap water. Add one cup (8 fl. oz.) of chlorine bleach and stir with an appropriate utensil.
  9. Using a sponge or scrub brush, apply the bleach solution to all surfaces of the litter box, making sure to wet well.
  10. Allow the bleach solution to remain on the surface of the litter box for at least ten minutes. Reapply the solution if necessary to keep it wet.
  11. Rinse the litter box as in Step-5, above: Fill 1/3 with water, agitate and rinse all surfaces. Dump and repeat three times.
  12. Allow the litter box to air dry as it Step-6, above: Place in a warm place, preferably outdoors until completely dry.
  13. If you do not choose to use any other methods to treat the litter box, it should be safe to use. If you notice any unusual smells of chemicals, return to Step-4, above, and repeat the entire process until the litter box is satisfactorily clean.
  14. Return the litter box to service using your usual procedure.
If you choose to use borax to prevent mold growth, proceed as follows:
  1. If you choose NOT to use borax, the process is complete. No further steps are necessary. Return the litter box to service, using your usual procedure, as in Step-14, above. No further action is necessary.
  2. If you choose to continue, ensure that the litter box is thoroughly clean as instructed in steps 1-13 in the paragraph above.
  3. Wear impermeable, rubber gloves, a waterproof apron and safety goggles.
  4. Work outdoors or in an appropriate place, indoors, with plenty of ventillation.
  5. Fill a sturdy bucket, half-full, of hot water. Add "Twenty Mule Team" borax and stir until no more dissolves.
  6. Use a sponge or scrub brush to apply the borax solution to all surfaces of the litter box. Do not rinse.
  7. Allow the box to air dry, outdoors or in a place, indoors with plenty of ventilation.
  8. If you notice a white powder on the surface of the litter box, after it dries, use a clean cloth to wipe away any residue.
  9. Once the litter box is completely dry and any residue has been wiped away, the litter box can be returned to service using your usual procedure.
 
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