TNR Recuperation set-up

[susank521]

I use the small porch (4' x 8') attached to Dewey's Cat Castle as the recuperation area for my TNR kitties. I've got dog cages that I use for this purpose and, in the past, have always just stacked the cages on top of each other.

I have the cats put in carriers post-op and transitioning the cats from the carrier to the cage has not always gone smoothly (I've got the scars to prove it!).  When the cats were ready to return to their grounds I rarely bothered to even try to get them into carriers, I just lugged the cages. Awkward, heavy, and really I just can't physically do that any more.

It's been lurking on my to-do list for more than a year and finally, just within the last month, we've gotten my little recuperation area reconfigured to do double duty as a kennel.

Infirmary 03-07-14 006.jpg

• susank521
• Mar 9, 2014

New kennel set-up can house 1 or 2 cats overnight. Big Tom (right foreground) usually spends the night in here now. During TNR times I'll move him to another kennel.

I have an idea in mind which I got from a very nice lady here: http://www.christinedemerchant.com/gardeningcats.html who shared photos of her set-up. Her's is in a bathroom, so she doesn't have the space constraints that I have.

From here on out I am only going to TNR two cats at a time. During the "remodel" I had in mind that I would use the small cages (18"x24") with the door facing out, one on the floor and one on the first shelf. We'll cut a hole in the side of the cages to allow access from a carrier. When I bring the cats home I can release the carrier door enough to slide a piece of plywood in to block opening, open the carrier door all of the way, then slide the carrier against the cage, pull out the plywood, and attach the carrier to the cage some way (bungie cords?).

To return the cats to their grounds I plan on using a piece of plywood with a handle attached. I will open the big door on the cage, and "push" the cat into the carrier. I think it's called a push plate. Then attach the push plate to the cage on the inside (a bungie cord again?), thus blocking the cage to carrier opening.

Before I start cutting holes in perfectly good cages, I'd appreciate any feedback or improvement suggestions. Also any suggestions on how to attach the carrier to the cage while the cat is confined. I don't like trusting bungie cords in that situation. It will not be very easy for me to access the away-side of the carrier as the clearance from floor to shelf is only 20.5". Clearance from bottom shelf to top shelf is 24". Shelf depth is 25.25".

Looking at this again, the lowest shelf on the left (used for the cats' access to the first big shelf where the food is when used as a kennel) is going to be in the way of the bottom cage door. Ugh! So I need suggestions about that, too.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ondine]

This looks like a great set-up. I wouldn't buy and cut crates. I'd make a frame with wood in front of the two areas and then use fence wiring to put up a wall. This would create an enclosed area similar to a crate.

I would make a door at each side of this front wire wall. That way, you can put the carrier into one side of the new area and the potty in the other and have access to both. I would bet the cat will run into the carrier every time you come in. This will solve the issue of getting them into the carrier.

I really like your idea of having a dedicated area for rehabbing.

 

[shadowsrescue]

I just have to say that you have the most awesome set up.  All of the cats that come into your life are so blessed.  I wish that my home was located in an area that allowed such a set up.  Yours just amazes me!!!

 

[susank521]

This looks like a great set-up. I wouldn't buy and cut crates. I'd make a frame with wood in front of the two areas and then use fence wiring to put up a wall. This would create an enclosed area similar to a crate.

I would make a door at each side of this front wire wall. That way, you can put the carrier into one side of the new area and the potty in the other and have access to both. I would bet the cat will run into the carrier every time you come in. This will solve the issue of getting them into the carrier.

I really like your idea of having a dedicated area for rehabbing.

I appreciate your input & suggestions, Ondine! After reading your post I looked closely at the options you mentioned. I couldn't figure out a easy way to remove the framing for the times when I'm using the space as a kennel (so that I can slide the litter box in and out for cleaning). Like you, I'd bet that the cat would usually go into the carrier when I approached, but I always seem to have at least one that doesn't hide in the housing I provide, instead it hides behind it, or on top of it!

I already have the crates, so no additional expense there.

 

[susank521]

Since I've now made it impossible to use the space as I have in the past (stacking the crates), I've got to get a solution in place this weekend as I plan to start trapping again the end of next week.

I'm thinking of using a piece of chain with carabiners, in addition to bungie cords, to hold the carrier to the crate. If anyone has a better suggestion please share them.

 

[susank521]

 
I just have to say that you have the most awesome set up.  All of the cats that come into your life are so blessed.  I wish that my home was located in an area that allowed such a set up.  Yours just amazes me!!!

It's like closet space, you always have 25% more stuff than you do room to store it. We all seem to have the same problem with cats! 

 

 

[ondine]

Not sure if I described my set-up.  I have a four foot crate and a three foot crate, each with double doors (one on the side and one in front).

I bought one of those bookshelves they make out of wire grids and plastic connectors.  I set the crates next to each other, with the side doors open and facing each other,  Then I zip-tie the doors together, using the wire grids to close in the space.  It makes a tunnel between the two crates.  I put the litter box in the smaller crate and the carrier in the back of the bigger crate.  I feed in the bigger crate, in front of the carrier.

I can't get into the "tunnel"  but I usually don't worry about cleaning it.  No one's ever peed in there - it usually just has loose litter on the floor.

I set this whole thing up in my shed.  The disadvantage is that it does take up a lot of room  - you need an area about 5'x6'.  But if you use two three-foot crates (or even two two-foot crates), the footprint would be smaller and might work in your area.  That way, too, you won't have to cut the crates.

If I have a chance today, I'll post a picture.

 

[shadowsrescue]

 
Not sure if I described my set-up.  I have a four foot crate and a three foot crate, each with double doors (one on the side and one in front).

I bought one of those bookshelves they make out of wire grids and plastic connectors.  I set the crates next to each other, with the side doors open and facing each other,  Then I zip-tie the doors together, using the wire grids to close in the space.  It makes a tunnel between the two crates.  I put the litter box in the smaller crate and the carrier in the back of the bigger crate.  I feed in the bigger crate, in front of the carrier.

I can't get into the "tunnel"  but I usually don't worry about cleaning it.  No one's ever peed in there - it usually just has loose litter on the floor.

I set this whole thing up in my shed.  The disadvantage is that it does take up a lot of room  - you need an area about 5'x6'.  But if you use two three-foot crates (or even two two-foot crates), the footprint would be smaller and might work in your area.  That way, too, you won't have to cut the crates.

If I have a chance today, I'll post a picture.

I would love to see a picture of this set up!!

 

[ondine]

If you are handy, you could build the set up and design it to slide in and out of the space.  That way, it can be taken out when you need the space for the kennel.  It just kills me for you to have to cut the crates

 

[susank521]

I think that I understand what you are describing, but pictures are always a great help. Sounds like you have a wonderful set-up, I'm so envious! My space is only 44" wide. My two smallest cages are 18"x24" and will fit side-by-side, but they only have one door each, and even my smallest carrier (with the door open) won't fit inside of the small cage. Please don't worry about me cutting a hole in those cages :-) I plan on bolting a wooden frame with a sliding door onto the cage, so it will still be useable (I think).

 

[ondine]

Here is a close up of the tunnel.  The dark crate in the back is the 4 foot crate - the three foot crate is in front (silver).  I leave the zip tie tails on, so it looks a little messy.  But it makes it easier to cut them when I have to separate the crates.  I also do not cut the grids - they are 12' x 12" each but if you cut them, it weakens them, so I leave them whole.  That's why they stick out at odd angles.  I had to be creative connecting the two doors because of their different sizes.

The front doors both face to the left in this picture, so it is easy to access both sides of the set-up.  The carrier goes toward the back of the big crate.  I got the grids at Rite Aid - they were part of a bookcase/shelf set that connected with plastic balls that had slits in them.

The orange circle on top of the large crate is one of those round-d-rounds that cats play with.  It fits inside the large crate too, or in the tunnel.  Some fosters like it; other don't.

My shed is huge - 12' x 16'.  We store stuff in it, too, but mostly it is our rehab center.  This spring, I hope to get electricity out there so I can put in a fan (to keep mosquitoes away in summer) and a heater for winter use.

       

tunnel.JPG

• ondine
• Mar 14, 2014

 

[feralvr]

I love Ondine's suggestion and one that I learned as well from my local TNR group. It is so brilliant and a great way to make more space for the feral cats either during recuperation or for socialization. And, your can use different sized crates depending on your space. The great thing, too, is that they are not permanent set-ups, easily moved and relocated, and very simple to dismantle for ease of storing.

I love your little porch set-up!!! Perfect for what you do and I am sure the kitties love it.

 

[susank521]

Thank you for the picture, Ondine. That is a very nice and extremely roomy setup. None of my cats had ever had that much room, if they did they'd refuse to leave! I thought I was being generous with the addition of the carrier to the crate. Zip ties and velcro... what would a girl do without them?

I don't have near the room on that little porch as you do in your shed :-( . I looked again when I got home, just to be sure, but there isn't room. I can put the two small crates side-by-side, but not so the doors face each other, so I would still have to make another opening in the crates (are you cringing as you read that Ondine?

) 

 

[ondine]

(are you cringing as you read that Ondine?:lol3: ) 


Yes a little.

But your set-up is going to be great!

 

[susank521]

TNR rehab 03-15-04 01.JPG

• susank521
• Mar 15, 2014

We used the solid part of a cat door, but plywood would work fine, too.

TNR rehab 03-15-04 02.JPG

• susank521
• Mar 15, 2014

TNR rehab 03-15-04 03.JPG

• susank521
• Mar 15, 2014

The chain doesn't work too well. I guess I will use 3 or 4 bungie cords, unless somebody has a better solution?

 

[feralvr]

BRAVO!!!!! That looks just great. I would suggest and use the bungy cords. They make them in different lengths and strengths too. Good job setting that all up !!! :high5:

 

[susank521]

Thank you Feralvr. I practiced a few times and think it will work. It's a little awkward securing the away-side of the carrier to the cage. Anyway, it will definitely be better than my old way.

My goal from here on out: No More Bites!

I made a push plate from the lid of a storage tote by attaching a small piece of 2x2 pine with fender washers and screws to use as a handle. I tried plywood, but the more flexible plastic lid worked better in that small cage. 

 

[ondine]

I get it now - I did not realize the crates only had one door.  I think the bungy cords will work well, especially it you can secure them (to keep them from slipping up or down).

 

[susank521]

Yup, the crates only had one door. I haven't cut the second cage yet. I'll have one TNR cat in there starting tonight, so I'll see how it goes and make necessary adjustments to the next cage. I was concerned that the opening I had between carrier and cage was too high and would be uncomfortably for a post-op cat to lift they're legs that high, so I've redone the entire opening. The bungie cords did not work at all. So, I got trigger snaps like this: http://www.tractorsupply.com/product__10151_-1_10051_12270 and attached them to a carabiner with a zip tie. I attached a key chain ring to each side of the carrier with zip ties. The carabiner is snapped onto the cage and the trigger snap attaches to the carrier when I get it in place. 

I'll post pictures of the changes once I get it the way I want it.

 

[ondine]

I have a whole cabinet in the shed full of stuff like that.  I love how creative we are when we have a problem to solve.  Can't wait to see pictures.