Share Your Indoor Plant Pictures

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LTS3

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The flower shop had bigger pots of succulents today:

20200911_143053_HDR[1].jpg

I keep forgetting about the other flower shop on my way home from work. I have to go by these days to get to the bus stop because the underground station is closed for renovations. I need to go browse the plants one of these days.
 

catapault

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Re: Grow Lights

1) Intensity falls off at the ends so a 4 foot long unit is much more useful than one that is 2-feet long.
2) See if you can find a 4 tube 4-foot long unit. Twice as many tubes, much more energy for the plants. The old fashioned shop lights with a curved white reflector hood are just fine.
3) Use a combination of cool white and warm white fluorescent tubes, 1:1 alternating so CW / WW / CW / WW
4) Light falls off with the square of the distance so plants two inches below the lights receive four times as much light energy as plants four inches down. Easiest to adjust individual pots on blocks to get them as close as possible without actually touching the tubes.
5) Lights may look just as bright to our eyes but are actually aging over time and providing less energy to the plants. Write the date the tube is put into operation with a fine point indelible marker on the end of each tube. Also, at a minimum - at the start of the autumn / winter growing season when plants are again put under the lights, wipe the tubes with a damp paper towel to remove any dust.
 

Willowy

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Re: Grow Lights

1) Intensity falls off at the ends so a 4 foot long unit is much more useful than one that is 2-feet long.
2) See if you can find a 4 tube 4-foot long unit. Twice as many tubes, much more energy for the plants. The old fashioned shop lights with a curved white reflector hood are just fine.
3) Use a combination of cool white and warm white fluorescent tubes, 1:1 alternating so CW / WW / CW / WW
4) Light falls off with the square of the distance so plants two inches below the lights receive four times as much light energy as plants four inches down. Easiest to adjust individual pots on blocks to get them as close as possible without actually touching the tubes.
5) Lights may look just as bright to our eyes but are actually aging over time and providing less energy to the plants. Write the date the tube is put into operation with a fine point indelible marker on the end of each tube. Also, at a minimum - at the start of the autumn / winter growing season when plants are again put under the lights, wipe the tubes with a damp paper towel to remove any dust.
What about those new red and blue LED lights, like what I linked to? Do you think they work? Marijuana growers seem to like them at least ;).
 

Norachan

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What about those new red and blue LED lights, like what I linked to? Do you think they work? Marijuana growers seem to like them at least ;).
Oooh, I just googled those! I love the pink ones!

What's the difference between pink ones and white florescent lights? I like the pink ones much better.
 

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From what I researched, the most important element is how much lumens the lights emit. Blue lights are more for foliage and red is more for flowers from what I understand.

My window only gets around 2 - 3 hours of light from the sun that is over 4,000 lumens. My Philips bulbs emit around 2,400 individually depending on how close they are to the plant.

I tried looking at the different types of grow lights available on amazon last night but none of them are all that much better than my current bulbs. 🤷🏾‍♀️ I use my croton as a guide. When I had it by my bulbs, it was quite happy so I'm assuming they are at least emitting enough lumens to an extent that it finds acceptable.
 

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My African violets are finally budding out again. A couple months ago, I removed all the spent flowers and other flowers to give them a bit of a resting period. And it's taken forever for them to begin to bud.

But that little umbrella tree is doing beautifully, with two new sprouts coming out of the top. The prayer plant in the same pot is doing well, too. The cactus has tons of new growth from being outside for the summer; I hope that new growth means new flowers this winter. It hasn't flowered well, since I brought it home from work last year; simply not enough light in the shed. (Ironically, I think the inside of the shed gets more light during the winter because the sun is lower in the winter and because there are no leaves on the trees.) All plants do get fed once a month with a flower booster, even non-flowering ones.

The umbrella tree has also been outside on the deck for the summer. I'd take it inside when the weather got windy, but other than that, it stayed outside. Now that it's cooler, it's back inside the shed where it gets northern light.
UmbrellaTree.jpg
 

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I keep looking at the orchids in the supermarket but I have resisted. I think they are moth orchids and they are supposed to be easy to grow, they only live about five years from what I have read. I read that the hybrids sometimes produce flowers at the expense of the plant. If there is little to no foliage spikes are supposed to be removed to give the plant a chance to develop leaves. Indirect bright light, monthly feeding with orchid fertilizer and weekly watering. They are supposed to do well in a clear pot with bark or moss.
 

denice

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What I read is that the hybrids are how they have made them very common and inexpensive. The hybrids produce flowers for long periods of time at the expense of the plant. That is why the spikes should be removed if there isn't much foliage.
 

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From what I researched, the most important element is how much lumens the lights emit. Blue lights are more for foliage and red is more for flowers from what I understand.
I guess blue lights would make more sense for me then. Do you know if they have to be fluorescent tube lights? Would regular light bulbs or daylight simulation bulbs do the job?

We actually get a lot of sun here in the winter, but it's around zero outside even on the brightest days for most of January and February. I wonder if I could leave the cacti and succulents out for a few hours in the middle of the day so they can make the most of the light.
 

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I don't have the space for those tube bulbs and they are too expensive for me. My pack of Phillips bulbs only cost around $25. Got them at HomeDepot. I don't remember spending that much on them and my lumens meter tells me that one bulb is emitting at least 4,000 lumens from a 6" distance... probably more. The plants they are closest to grow fairly compact and they don't stretch towards the light all that much so I'm assuming they are getting enough light.

I think these were the ones: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ph...ini-twister-cfl-light-bulb-4-pack-/1000664360

Not sure what temperatures succulents can handle though.
 
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LTS3

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I have a new addition:

20200915_171651_Burst01[1].jpg

It's crepe paper flowers. Super easy to take care of :biggrin:

Definitely have to stop by the other flower shop. Pictures from Google, probably a few years old:

Untitled.jpg



Succulents and terrariums!
Untitled2.jpg


It seems like a small shop just from walking by but apparently the narrow storefront is pretty long.
 

Willowy

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After spending all summer outside, my "hospital cases" are doing ok. The pink one is doing great. The green one is still alive. And looks fine, I think? But hasn't grown at all, so that's kinda weird.
20200915_182900.jpg

20200915_182847.jpg

Yeah it's a little wrinkly, so I just watered it.



I think this one got a bit sunburned:
20200915_183135.jpg


Otherwise I think they're all doing fine.
 
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