rescued feral in cage won't let me reach into cage without attacking

[JohnL]

At first I was able to reach in to get the litter box and food/water bowls to feed/clean.
Now it gets up close to the door of the cage and lunges/hisses/growls/swats at me.
It has got me once before. I wouldn't be surprised if it is picking up on my stress and fear.
I am also afraid it will get out of the cage when I open the door to remove the litter box.
Spay/neuter scheduled for next Tuesday.
It seems to be more comfortable with my female friend who is able to get into the cage, but she cannot come over every day.
It may have a problem with males, but certainly me.
Any advice would be helpful. I just was to properly care for the cat, and have had to put food through the cage with a spoon to it's bowls.
I need to clean the litter box, bowls and give fresh water.

 

[silent meowlook]

That’s a tough situation. For your safety and the cats, I would feed canned food through the cage without opening. Just leave the litterpan for now. It’s not worth risking injury to yourself.

 

[JohnL]

Thanks. Will post an update. Feeding through the cage for now.

 

[Julest]

Hi John
I had the exact same issue with my rescue feral. It was really scary to access the crate and to add to that he was in rabies quarantine so I really couldn't let him bite me. What I did was put a large cat carrier in the cage with a door on it. This allowed him a safe space to hide and when I needed to clean the crate I closed the door to the carrier with a long wooden yardstick. I then kept the yardstick in place between the bars of the crate which held the door closed with my cat inside the carrier. It allowed me to access the litter box and crate to clean and feed him. Once I was finished I locked the crate door and then slid the yardstick back out and used it to push the carrier door open again. This method was a lifesaver for me as I had my cat in a large dog crate for about 6 weeks.

 

[di and bob]

men are usually more threatening to cats, bigger and deeper voices. Can you distract him at all with dropping treats in the cage? Does he haev a small box to hide in for comfort? Mayeb something with a door you could push closed like said above. Maybe you could get some welders mits or something similar to reach into the cage with. Always make sure the door to the room you are in is closed too, just in case he does get out. When you bring him in make sure there is a large note on the front that says FERAL, DO NOT HANDLE! That helps them to understand not to just reach in and saves him a quarantine. Maybe have your female friend come over in a coupel of days.....

 

[Kwik]

At first I was able to reach in to get the litter box and food/water bowls to feed/clean.
Now it gets up close to the door of the cage and lunges/hisses/growls/swats at me.
It has got me once before. I wouldn't be surprised if it is picking up on my stress and fear.
I am also afraid it will get out of the cage when I open the door to remove the litter box.
Spay/neuter scheduled for next Tuesday.
It seems to be more comfortable with my female friend who is able to get into the cage, but she cannot come over every day.
It may have a problem with males, but certainly me.
Any advice would be helpful. I just was to properly care for the cat, and have had to put food through the cage with a spoon to it's bowls.
I need to clean the litter box, bowls and give fresh water.

You can purchase a squeeze fork,made specifically for this reason,for restraining a cat or for cage transfer etc .. it looks like a sort of pitchfork,look on Amazon or trap company sites like ATS....

This is one of many reasons to not put ferals in plastic carriers so its good you have him in a cage,crate or welded wire enclosure

 

[maggie101]

When I rescued Maggie I used a long circular bed/tunnel shee could hide in but still see me so I sat with her and talked quietly. Do not try to pat her. Start on floor,let her sniff you,then slowly scratch his neck,cheek,ears,and finally head. It takes some cats just a day to get comfortable,some 2 or more. It took one of my cats, Coco, a year! She's now 11 yrs old,rescued at 2. She is not afraid anymore

 

[Kwik]

J JohnL

I do love Tomahawk products- I see they call the squeeze fork a divider fork .. here's a link for you
Trap Accessories :: Trap Dividers

I have a huge one thats made for a large dog crate- it's probably more than 30yrs old and I've no recollection of where I got it,a few people have told me they never saw one that big but I might have gotten it when I was handling Florida panthers?
How big is your cage?

Ahhh- just found one where Ive bought bigger traps for other critters
TD-1 Large Trap Divider For 42D and Larger Traps Not For Cat Traps

 

[silent meowlook]

So, there is feral and then there is stray. True feral cats will body slam the trap and be absolutely terrified of you. If this cat is truly feral, it’s best to not try to interact for now. The less they see of you the better. You can tame truly feral cats, but it takes allot of time, and now isn’t the time to do it.

 

[Kwik]

So, there is feral and then there is stray. True feral cats will body slam the trap and be absolutely terrified of you. If this cat is truly feral, it’s best to not try to interact for now. The less they see of you the better. You can tame truly feral cats, but it takes allot of time, and now isn’t the time to do it.

Agree 100%... that's why I suggest a fork when cleaning his box- covered cage,in and out ,let him settle into being confined and being indoors,he's terrified

It's so important to understand that for cats a familiar place with familiar sounds and scents is first priority before sight and interactions....

 

[maggie101]

A friend of mine took in a cat like that. He was an indoor outdoor cat. He plays with her her other cats she has. Very friendly. He did run away when there was a bad storm. So feral or stray, thanks for rescuing him!

 

[maggie101]

I realize post was yesterday. Hope he's become more attentive

 

[barbb]

I care for feral moms and kittens, we have a whole plastic box w round opening that is located within the cage, and it gives them somewhere to retreat and feel safe from us humans.
I’m not sure how big your cage is, but you might ask the Spay/neuter people to, add something like that to the cage if they will be returning Kitty to a cage to recover. That way from inside of the cage, he can go behind that or in thereto feel safe from you.
Also, I have found that esp feral cats are more upset if we stand over top of them and they are less threatened if we visit them low and at eye level and also playing gentle music seems to help a little bit, plus do not stare direct at them because that’s considered a threat. So if his cage is on the ground right there, he would be threatened.
Anyhow, good luck and you are such an angel to help this kitty

 

[JohnL]

Thanks barbb,
We will be attempting to get it in the carrier and it will go back to the cage.
I don't think I could fit anything else in the cage.
I have been getting on the floor and it seems to respond better than standing over it , as you suggested.
I also didn't know about the eye contact thing and thought otherwise.
I think the cat was let out or escaped from a abusive animal hording circumstance.
Thanks for your help and kind words.

 

[JohnL]

Thanks for the advise. I've never heard of a squeeze fork. Vet tomorrow morning, so too late to search for a squeeze fork.

You can purchase a squeeze fork,made specifically for this reason,for restraining a cat or for cage transfer etc .. it looks like a sort of pitchfork,look on Amazon or trap company sites like ATS....

This is one of many reasons to not put ferals in plastic carriers so its good you have him in a cage,crate or welded wire enclosure

 

[JohnL]

I realize post was yesterday. Hope he's become more attentive
Thank you just the same. It is better when I sit on the floor and feed it a little at a time.
It's putting my hand in the cage that has me on edge.

 

[JohnL]

I can't believe there is something like this. I was trying to think about how to make one.
All great advise, but don't think I would get it in time.
Vet tomorrow morning.

I do love Tomahawk products- I see they call the squeeze fork a divider fork .. here's a link for you
Trap Accessories :: Trap Dividers

I have a huge one thats made for a large dog crate- it's probably more than 30yrs old and I've no recollection of where I got it,a few people have told me they never saw one that big but I might have gotten it when I was handling Florida panthers?
How big is your cage?

Ahhh- just found one where Ive bought bigger traps for other critters
TD-1 Large Trap Divider For 42D and Larger Traps Not For Cat Traps

 

[barbb]

We have used a metal pancake flipper lol to move dishes and cat beds to cage opening plus a container w watering spout to replenish water if cat very upset.
With both Tom’s and Mom’s it is their hormones and they should get better after their surgery, but it takes a little while. U can use spoon w baby food to put in there and leave it, he will know it’s from you

 

[JohnL]

So, there is feral and then there is stray. True feral cats will body slam the trap and be absolutely terrified of you. If this cat is truly feral, it’s best to not try to interact for now. The less they see of you the better. You can tame truly feral cats, but it takes allot of time, and now isn’t the time to do it.

This is my 6ths rescue. One I kept, but it was not aggressive and I think happy to be saved.
We have many in my complex. I can tell usually tell the difference between stray and feral.
This was not anyone's cat that was treated well.
Not all feral cats body slam the cage, but some I rescued were young. I have seen that and one I wasn't looking for I had to let go. It went nuts spraying and hissing and even try to get through the metal cage.
I thought it would need to get used to seeing me to socialize, but the sheet over the cage at night makes it stop crying some.
I have tamed a feral cat before. It took years.
Appreciate the input.

 

[Kwik]

So, there is feral and then there is stray. True feral cats will body slam the trap and be absolutely terrified of you. If this cat is truly feral, it’s best to not try to interact for now. The less they see of you the better. You can tame truly feral cats, but it takes allot of time, and now isn’t the time to do it.

This is my 6ths rescue. One I kept, but it was not aggressive and I think happy to be saved.
We have many in my complex. I can tell usually tell the difference between stray and feral.
This was not anyone's cat that was treated well.
Not all feral cats body slam the cage, but some I rescued were young. I have seen that and one I wasn't looking for I had to let go. It went nuts spraying and hissing and even try to get through the metal cage.
I thought it would need to get used to seeing me to socialize, but the sheet over the cage at night makes it stop crying some.
I have tamed a feral cat before. It took years.
Appreciate the input.

I'm getting confused and realized your posting what others have said- if you hit the quote & reply option at the bottom right of the post you want to respond to it will say " quote" before your reply and make reading easier.....if that helps?

Let us know how your Vet visit goes.....when you do make eye contact with a cat just close your eyes and open slowly( that why people tell you to slow blink) its how cats show affection,it's a non threat signal and your telling the cat you ate friendly- it's not that looking at a cat is a bad thing but direct open eye contact( staring) is threatening- cats are communicating with one another when they stare at each other ,the one that will look away is saying they do not want conflict,they are avoiding- the other cat understands this....

With cats & containment ,one with vertical space is better if you have that option it will give an aggressive cat a better position to feel safe- reaching " in" a cage without vertical space the cat has no option for avoidance in his mind and is perceiving a threat,confrontation - many cats will huddle in a corner terrified but typically a true feral is very likely to defend himself with confrontation rather than avoidance,they'd prefer avoidance if given the option

When approaching an aggressive cat in cage of course their are cage dividers ,squeeze forks etc but your approach can make a difference as well- reaching head on is a no no and facing the cage with your body is not good either - your body should be sideways and your arm should move across,not towards or in- this is why most Vet techs and groomers alike prefer top loading carriers,alot can be avoided when your not reaching towards a cat--- just try to see what they see,your arms are sooooo long and your claws are sticking out of your paws like knives( fingers)- always keep a closed hand with fingers not pointing towards the kitty.... I do hope all these little things help you to maneuver around this fella easier