Remotely

alphakitty

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Remote Control Key Fob & 2x Receivers.jpg
Solenoid Attachment - Side View_12-06-2018.jpg
Solenoid CloseUp_12-06-2018.jpg
Solenoid Trap Top - 12-06-2018.jpg
Trigger Bar Attachment_12-06-2018.jpg
Ehh? Not Sure Where This Should Be Posted?

In my ongoing quest to successfully trap, neuter & release the difficult, tricky characters out there in the feral streets of America, I have been working to create an inexpensive and simple to fabricate (advanced skills are not required), remotely triggered TomaHawk (having a 'guillotine' style rear sliding door) metal kitty trap.

I've attached a few photos to show the trigger assembly of my remotely triggered trap. The user holds a two button wireless key-fob, which can control two different traps. There is also a four trap version, 2x more expensive. Each remotely triggered trap, excluding the trap cost itself, is around $30 ea and using a Philips screw driver, a crimper and a pair of pliers, a remotely triggered trap may be assembled in roughly a half-hour.

Remote Control Key Fob & 2x Receivers.jpg
Solenoid Attachment - Side View_12-06-2018.jpg
Solenoid CloseUp_12-06-2018.jpg
Solenoid Trap Top - 12-06-2018.jpg
Trigger Bar Attachment_12-06-2018.jpg


The push-button key-fob can be located upwards of 50 ~ 75 feet distance from the traps. I place my traps out in the backyard (to catch opposums and-or racoons...eats colony food), and watch the trap through a window, or from the convenience of my car when trapping feral kitties on a street, to both watch and to prevent trap theft.

If anyone is truely interested I'll post a descriptive 'tutorial' about where to procure the components, and how to assemble your own trap.

Alpha Kitty
 

kittypa

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This interests me as I may want to trap a kitty that I have trapped before. They’re not going get into a trap again. How could I rig a good sized dog crate or something I could get him in ?
 

Willowy

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Now, it doesn't have anything to do with a remote trap tripper, but the way I got my already-been-trapped feral when I moved was to start feeding him in a large dog crate, until he was used to it and not jumpy about being in the crate. Then I put a rope on the door and pulled it shut the next time he went in. So that's one way.

Of course I already owned the large dog crate so if you have to buy something new it's probably better to go with a drop trap.
 
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alphakitty

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Now, it doesn't have anything to do with a remote trap tripper, but the way I got my already-been-trapped feral when I moved was to start feeding him in a large dog crate, until he was used to it and not jumpy about being in the crate. Then I put a rope on the door and pulled it shut the next time he went in. So that's one way.

Of course I already owned the large dog crate so if you have to buy something new it's probably better to go with a drop trap.
Hi, Your strategy is well taken and for many applications it is more than adequate.

I've caught numerous kitties in my backyard using a 'low-stretch' nylon cord to 'remotely' trigger traps. This strategy can be used in association with characters who aren't woefully skittish. But there are some characters that I have repeatedly attempted to trap, who will not enter the area as long as they can see me, it is for that reason that I have engineered a truly remotely-controlled trap. I can be inside my home and still trigger a trap. Out of sight out of mind.

However, as almost all cords and-or rope, do exhibit some 'stretch' and as everything has mass, when one pulls on the rope to cause the trap-door to fall, one must pull the rope's 'droop' straight to cause the rope to become taut enough to pull the trap trigger. It is that 'droop' pull that often scares away the tricky or leary characters, because they see and hear the rope droop being pulled taut, a moment before the trap door falls. The further the distance the trap is from the trapper, the greater the droop, the harder the pull required, the longer the moment.

Alpha Kitty
 
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alphakitty

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This interests me as I may want to trap a kitty that I have trapped before. They’re not going get into a trap again. How could I rig a good sized dog crate or something I could get him in ?
Hi KittyPa,

I have no experience with dog traps, although there are commercial units available that I suspect may function similarly. Bottom metal plate, located in the rear of the trap, where the bait is placed. Stepping on the pressure plate, pulls the trigger bar, thereby releasing the trap door on the front of the trap.

My strategy for re-trapping kitties that have been previously trapped, is to employ a TomaHawk 'guillotine' style rear door trap. Here's where I get mine. These traps were engineered by "Neighborhood Cats Organization", Live Traps model 608NC - 36 inches.

https://www.livetrap.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30179

See the attached photo of a 608NC TomaHawk trap.
TomaHawk Nr 608NC.jpg


Ad rem...back to the point, in the photo above, the 'lockable' back door may be lifted out. I open both ends of the trap, placing goodies in the middle, and then leave the trap unattended. After a few days the subject kitty (hopefully only that little character) will begin to enter the trap to get the goodies. At that time I replace the back door, lock it, and then arm the trap for either rope trigger or my wireless remote-trigger.

Best Wishes, Alpha Kitty
 

surya

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I used zip ties and put the remote on top of the trap, with the trigger holding the door open
Remote-Trap.jpg
. Since I use borrowed Trucach traps, that allows me to remove it. I have found the remote very helpful for catching groups of kittens, when you can not be too close.
 
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