Problems with food/visual sessions when introducing cats

ikowalczyk

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Hi,
I have 3 cats- a brother and sister (Charlie and Sally) both two years old and 4 year old Arthur- and I recently started fostering a 5 year old cat named Fanny. It’s been over a month and we are at the part of the introduction where they are eating by a cracked open door with the bowls gradually being moved closer and the door being opened wider. I did the scent and litter swapping and both went really well. I’ve also been letting Fanny free roam every day for an hour or so while my 3 are locked in my bedroom because he hates being locked up in his room. All 4 cats are fine eating on either side of a closed door but if I open the door even a crack, my 3 will go running. Only Charlie will occasionally come back and eat by the partially opened door. I know that part of the problem is that Fanny got out twice during these food visual sessions. The first time he ran into my bedroom and attacked Arthur. I was able to get between them fairly quickly and get him back to his room. The second time Fanny got out, he ran after Charlie and right into Arthur who scratched him on the nose. Fanny hid under the coffee table, Arthur stayed where he was and did not go after him, and I had to wrap Fanny in a blanket to get him back to his room. With each incident I went back in the introduction to wherever my cats were comfortable and we have now worked our way to the food/visuals sessions. Because I want to keep everyone safe and avoid further incidents, I am now stacking two gates when I crack the door open. But Arthur and Sally refuse to come eat if the door is cracked even an inch. I have tried using high value treats that I only give them during these sessions but the only one who will come for the treat is Charlie. My cats are on a feeding schedule- they get two main meals of wet food and two smaller ones of dry food and I have started trying to feed them their dry food outside Fanny’s door but both Sally and Arthur will wait until the door is closed to come eat. I would love to just leave the door cracked open and let them come to their food on their own when they are ready but Fanny hates being locked up so when he sees the door is cracked open he starts climbing the gates and that freaks my cats out. I’m feeling very stuck. I don’t know if there’s anything else I can do or try or is it just a matter of continuing with the sessions with the gates up and the food near the door until they eventually make up their mind that it’s ok to eat near Fanny. Any advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 

di and bob

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I would maybe keep one of them in a dog crate, Fanny mainly, and swap them out, so they get used to Fanny's movements and the sight of him. It's unfortunate he attacked one of yours, that is most likely why they are avoiding him. Another way to consider is to get Fanny used to a harness and leash, that way you can control him. I hope others come on with ideas.......
 
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ikowalczyk

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I live in an apartment and buying and storing a dog crate is really not an option. I had considered moving the stacked gates out of his doorway and down the hall so that they are able to avoid him less and he can have a bigger home base but I think he would be frustrated that he’s not allowed out and into the other areas of the house especially since he gets to go there when I let him free roam. And my three would not be happy with losing even more territory.
 

di and bob

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Have you tried removing the gates and see what happens? Have a stiff piece of cardboard ready to stick between any fights. They might get along better than you think. Those wire dog crates are collapsable, you can get them cheap on facebook, and then sell it when you are done.
 
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ikowalczyk

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When he has gotten out the last two times, he went after my cats, so I don’t think they any of them are ready for him to be out with no gates. And I know I’m not as fast as he is so a piece of cardboard would do nothing to keep anyone safe- that’s what I was using at the door during feeding sessions and he still got out. And putting him in a dog crate in a room with them is not a good idea because he already hates being locked up- and that’s in a room where he has windows, cat trees, toys, scratches, and multiple beds.
 
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ikowalczyk

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Totally agree with it being a PITA- and my cats are on a feeding schedule. I can’t imagine doing this if you free feed.
71513145451__467C16A6-5F88-4C8D-9985-61A848CE710C.jpeg

So this is the setup right now- minus the blanket. And I’ve been cracking the door open and putting their food bowls in the hallway outside. The problem with leaving the gates up and giving them 24/7 visual access is that Fanny tries to scale the gate. He gets frustrated that he can see out but he’s not actually allowed out all the time. I do let him free roam every day while they’re locked in my bedroom but he would rather just be out all the time. And him scaling the gate freaks out my other three. Where his room is also makes it very easy for them to avoid him. His room is down the main hall to the left of the bathroom. So if they choose to, they can just not go to that part of the apartment.
IMG_4268.jpeg

He’s cone free now and has been for a while but his climbing skills have only improved. 🤦‍♀️😹
 

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Avoidance is a big problem. It comes up a lot with indoor/outdoor cats. I've never seen a magic solution proposed. Just either restructure the setup to prevent avoidance (if its possible) or do stuff like feeding/toys/treats to attract them to the gate area, gradually working closer to the gate if stress prevents it working at a certain distance.

If none of that works, and they are going to fight for real, its a big problem. However, keep in mind that not every incident of chasing or swatting indicates intent to fight for real. Sometimes its more of a "get the bleep away from here" charge/swat, and that can often be worked through. Only true fights with intent to injure are impossible for them to work through on their own. So if they are not going to fight for real, you might need to let them mingle and hope for the best.

One of my cats has some mild cauliflower ear from letting him and a stressed senior cat work through stuff years ago. Even swatting is not totally harmless. But sometimes there isn't a great option. And those two absolutely did solve their differences in time, living in toleration and eventually even playing a tiny bit.
 
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ikowalczyk

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I truly appreciate your suggestions and will see if there’s a way I can move the gates further down the hallway. It won’t prevent Fanny from wanting to get out but it will make it harder for my 3 to avoid him. I think my biggest hesitation with just letting them out and seeing what happens is that Fanny is a foster cat. He’s not mine so putting him in a situation where he could possibly be hurt does not feel right. Do you think putting up the gates in my bedroom door when I put my three in there so Fanny can free roam would be worth trying? All of them would be safe and since Fanny is already out, I wouldn’t have to worry about him fixating on trying to get out. And my 3 wouldn’t be able to avoid him but could keep their distance if they choose to.
 

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I skipped the food near the gate step with every intro. I fed treats together yes, usually high reward ones like Churu. Never meals.

I don't think a meal should be stressful. If it's not working, try something else.
 
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ikowalczyk

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When I was introducing Arthur to Charlie and Sally, I skipped that too because it didn’t work for me either. Unfortunately neither the meals nor the treats are working. I tried their favorite and I only gave it to them near or at the gate and only Charlie would come for it. So food of any kind, at least for my other two, is just not motivating or rewarding enough.
 
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