Precor 2000 Plus Flea Spray

FeebysOwner

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I’ve noticed a lot of members who seem to have used/regularly use this product, and hope you are willing to answer my questions:

Are you using the aerosol form? How far away from surfaces do you spray it? Is there much of a ‘back splash’ of the spray?

Is it necessary to remove all the furniture out of a room? If not, what do you move? Is it an issue to spray around/near wood items (e.g.; Large entertainment centers, coffee tables, end tables, etc.)?

Do you use it on hard surfaces (I have a lot of faux wood tile planks)? If you do use it on surfaces like this, should it just be a fine mist on the flooring?

How damp should the carpeting be? How do you know if you are spraying it heavy enough, but not too heavily? How about material covered furniture, throw pillows? What about non-material (e.g.; leather, or even faux leather) furniture?

How smelly is it? How long does the smell linger?

How long does it typically take to dry?

How many times did you have to re-treat before you felt it was successful? How often do you now reapply it as preventative maintenance?

I’ve read the instructions, but still am unclear on things, and was hoping to hear from folks who have actually used it as opposed to relying on the company’s Q&A.

Anything else you can tell me that I am not asking about? Thanks!
 

daftcat75

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I used it as a spot spray—bedding, soft furniture, carpet, mostly along the walls and areas Krista sleeps like under the bookcase. I didn’t spray hard surfaces because those can easily be wiped down with something less concerning. It is supposed to be non-toxic when dry. But it still makes me nervous. I only moved furniture if it helped me get to cracks and crevices that could harbor fleas in all their annoying life stages. I used a light even spray that would dry quickly and kept Krista out of the room for a minimum of 1 hour to be sure.
 
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FeebysOwner

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Did it have a strong smell? And, did the smell linger after it dried? Also, I know you used other products, so I am guessing this wasn't necessarily the one that ended up working the best for you? Oh, and yeah, was there a 'back splash' when spraying? I am thinking about using it near large wood furniture like a massive entertainment stand that I do not want to have to move. I do know when I used the Martin's IGR there was some back splash that left spray marks on some of my wood doors.
 

daftcat75

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Did it have a strong smell? And, did the smell linger after it dried? Also, I know you used other products, so I am guessing this wasn't necessarily the one that ended up working the best for you? Oh, and yeah, was there a 'back splash' when spraying? I am thinking about using it near large wood furniture like a massive entertainment stand that I do not want to have to move. I do know when I used the Martin's IGR there was some back splash that left spray marks on some of my wood doors.
I think these all have a smell. I don’t remember the smell lingering past an hour. I would pen Krista into the other half of the apartment, spray, then join her in her half for the hour that I allowed it to dry. It is an aerosol spray. So yes, the thicker you lay it down, the more of a back splash it will leave. I did quick thin sprays and moved on. I was trying to put down a light mist or a fog more than a coat. You could always throw a tarp or a sheet over anything you don’t want to get splashed or stained.

I used it once or twice as an outdoor spray. I used it once indoors, with Krista being penned to the other half of the apartment (poop jail plus the office.) And I used it once when I evacuated Krista and myself to a hotel for the weekend. That time, I did a deep clean with the wet vac first which didn’t dry by the checkout day. So I had to beg the hotel for an extra night to let the carpet with the Precor dry before I brought Krista back.

It was due to this concern plus the recommendation of others here that I decided to try Fleabusters instead. I like Fleabusters better because it’s as harmful as table salt once the dust has settled. I still have to pen Krista up and for Fleabusters, I have to wear a mask because it gets dusty. But it settles in 15-30 minutes. I don’t remember if it was that long. And then we can both come out of lockup.

We might be getting a resurgence. While she was at the hospital getting her ear surgery last week, I sprayed with the Advantage spray and did some laundry. Now I don’t want to mess with any of that because she’s got bigger concerns. But I also think I may have bought us some time with the spraying and laundry. I don’t feel as itchy. I never did see the fleas last summer. Only the eggs and the dirt. This summer I’m too focused on her ear surgery and lymphoma to get into flea mode.
 
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FeebysOwner

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It was due to this concern plus the recommendation of others here that I decided to try Fleabusters instead. I like Fleabusters better because it’s as harmful as table salt once the dust has settled.
I opted not to do the Fleabusters - yet - because there are issues with powder/salt like substances being left in carpeting when dealing with high humidity (including food grade DE). Despite having A/C, the humidity level in the house is still high down here at this time of year. Nothing, in the way of treatments, is entirely off my list though.
 

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I didn’t like DE at all. It was too thin/dusty and it was very drying. I felt like the stuff was attacking me as much as the fleas. The Fleabusters stayed in the carpet better and you can vacuum it up in a day or two. Other than the smell and how dusty it was going down, I never minded it once it settled.
 
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The Fleabusters stayed in the carpet better and you can vacuum it up in a day or two.
From what I understand, the vacuuming that can be done in a day or two is to ensure any excess amount is removed, and to start the process of removing eggs/larvae. But, I believe the intent is to ensure there is powder that remains deep in the carpeting in order to disrupt the pupae, which are much harder to vacuum up. That is the part that concerns me from the humidity standpoint, as there is a level of the substance that must remain in the carpet for effectiveness. Another thing to do more research on...
 

daftcat75

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From what I understand, the vacuuming that can be done in a day or two is to ensure any excess amount is removed, and to start the process of removing eggs/larvae. But, I believe the intent is to ensure there is powder that remains deep in the carpeting in order to disrupt the pupae, which are much harder to vacuum up. That is the part that concerns me from the humidity standpoint, as there is a level of the substance that must remain in the carpet for effectiveness. Another thing to do more research on...
Yeah possibly. Krista and I have a bigger fight than fleas at the moment. And they don't seem to be in the office. Thankfully!
 

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FeebysOwner FeebysOwner We have discussed flea control in the past and I cant image dealing with an unrelenting flea problem. I was wondering if you has tried Cheristin (Spinetoram) topical made by Elanco. It's available from Chewy (no Rx) and is a topical only (no systemic absorption). I personally have not used this product (as you know I am a big lover of Revolution) but thought I would mention it as it remains topically.

Fleas are a nightmare and I am sorry you are still battling them.
 
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FeebysOwner FeebysOwner We have discussed flea control in the past and I cant image dealing with an unrelenting flea problem. I was wondering if you has tried Cheristin (Spinetoram) topical made by Elanco. It's available from Chewy (no Rx) and is a topical only (no systemic absorption). I personally have not used this product (as you know I am a big lover of Revolution) but thought I would mention it as it remains topically.
Thanks. Cheristin was my vet's second recommendation (Bravecto was #1), but there were a few threads on this site in past years whereby the OPs said Cheristin killed their cat. Notwithstanding that, as I understood, Cheristin only kills adult fleas, so an additional treatment would be needed for flea eggs/larvae/pupae. And, when I was doing research on the various flea treatments, I swear I read it enters the bloodstream (Adv II does not - but, btw Revolution does), although I am having difficulty finding that same data today. Most of the topical manufacturers don't bother to tell you whether or not their product enters the bloodstream.

Since I am dealing with a 15+ yo cat, I am a bit leery about what to use to treat her.
 

BlackCatOp

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I completely understand! I actually don’t use flea control on my cats routinely as they are indoors and (knock on wood) I have not had a flea problem. While flea prevention is technically safe, any medication has side effects. Thus, I have decided to limit my cats exposure to the meds and to only use flea control as needed (travel, boarding, vet visits.)

My understanding regarding if a topical enters bloodstream or not is to look at how the product is registered. If it is an EPA product, then it stays topically. If it is an FDA applied topical product, then it is likely transdermally absorbed and enters blood stream.
 
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My understanding regarding if a topical enters bloodstream or not is to look at how the product is registered. If it is an EPA product, then it stays topically. If it is an FDA applied topical product, then it is likely transdermally absorbed and enters blood stream.
That was what I also thought, but am having difficulty 'verifying' that. Starting my research over again...

EDIT: Just did a quick search on all of the flea treatment ingredients on the FDA site - all the ones, excluding Cheristin, that I thought entered the bloodstream are on the site. Cherisitin (Spinetoram) is not. So, maybe what you think - and, I did think - is an accurate approach. Bloodstream ingredients are on FDA, Sebaceous/skin applications are not. Now, moving on to the EPA...
 
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Update to using Precor 2000 Plus Flea Spray today. The smell isn't as bad as Adams Flea & Tick Spray for the home. And, the smell dissipates much quicker when dry (Adams lingered for at least a day.) But, that is about all I can say good so far about this product.
  • It is hard to apply - the instructions say to spray 2-3 feet above area, but that is a joke. Being an aerosol, it just 'flies' throughout the area so you really can't tell how much you are getting on the actual carpet. You need to be about a foot or less from the area you want it to be applied to.
  • Once the can is about half full, no matter how long/hard you shake it, it comes out in huge droplets - not a fine mist.
  • You can't even remotely tilt the can without those same droplets occurring, even more so when there is less in the can. So, forget about applying at any angle, however small. If the can isn't absolutely perpendicular to the floor, it doesn't work correctly.
  • No matter what you do, it will get all over your forefinger while depressing the nozzle. (I did resort to gloves).
It tears up my throat, even with a mask on - but, tbh, so did Adams. So, I am going to guess I am just super sensitive to the ingredients that kill adult fleas. The IGR products, when used alone, do not bother me at all.

If I would choose to try this product again, it will be in the concentrate form that I can mix with water and use a pump sprayer. The aerosol version is just not for me.
 
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I stand corrected about the smell - at least outside on the patio (humidity, maybe?). I can still smell the Precor out there.
 
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