Need to get my Semi-Feral/Abused Cat to the Vet

ninightea

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Hello there,

I am in need of some outside the box advice, tips, tricks, whatever you've got, for getting my cat inside the box (her crate) so I can take her to the vet.

We've had Peanut for over two years, but it's clear she was not actually "adoptable" yet when we adopted her. Not the humane society's fault; they were overcapacity and Peanut's quirks let her slide by as simply being "shy". Is she just feral? Has she been abused? No way to know since her history at intake was inconsistant and unreliable (but we do strongly suspect abuse after having spent so much time with her). We've worked with behaviourists, our vet, experienced oet owners, etc., and no one's quite sure how to help her. We still cannot touch her this much later despite trying everything that's been suggested to us.

And that would be fine, honestly. We're okay with a cat who doesn't want to be held or pet. We're happy to just give her home where she can feel safe and content. The issue is that we're struggling to fully meet her physical health needs as we can't brush her and of course getting her to the vet isn't going great this year. Her fur is prone to matting but trying to catch her to brush her the first time was... well, let's just say my arms are very scarred from the attempt.

Last year we were able to trick her into her crate to get her to the vet (where she had to be put under just so she could be shaved, inspected, and vaccinated). She's currently overdue for her annual vet visit. Peanut is not about to fall for that trap a second time (she's still scared of the treat we lured her with last time even though it's her favourite). Just "catching" her is likely to injur both us and her with how wild she gets. There's no food that seems to entice her and leaving her crate out for her to get used to hasn't done a thing.

Basically, short of asking someone over tag her with a tranq dart, we're not real sure how to safely get her into her crate without injury to us or her. We'd love any weird ideas that you've had success with that maybe weren't "by the book" so to speak. Anything safe is fair game as far as we're concerned.

I hope it's fine I've asked for advice here. Oour cat is certainly closer to feral than she is domesticated at this point...
 

Kieka

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Can you talk to your vet about a tranquilizer you can add to her food? I'd use something other then her main food for the trick but it might make her slow enough to react to catch her. My girl is incredibly hard to catch when it's vet time (or anytime in general) it took several months for her to be comfortable with some petting and even after 11 years picking her up is reserved for vet trips (flea medicine is catching her completely asleep and applying before she wakes up, luckily she sleeps like the dead and won't wake up if you time it right). Usually for my girl, I corner her in a space she can't escape or hide in, throw a towel over her and bundle her into the crate.
 

silent meowlook

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Hi. Unfortunately every bad experience a cat has will take much more good experiences to overcome it. It sounds like your cat is extremely reactive and fearful, which means you cannot create a good experience for her in regards to the carrier.

And that is why I always say “ better living through chemical therapy”

First off, you need to find a feline friendly, hopefully feline only veterinarian that will work with you and your cat, and has extensive experience handling and working with feral cats.

If you want to post a rough idea of your location or message me it, I can look for qualified veterinarians in that area.

Getting her into the vet will require that you establish a relationship with the veterinarian first. It will take some work on your end. You may need to set up a consultation with the vet first. Expect to be paying for an office visit for this since it will take the vets time.

Ask for a prescription for Gabapentin for your cat. Gabapentin comes in capsule form and can be added to the food the night before and the morning before the visit. It is not a miracle drug. It will not do more than try to sway her mood a bit more happy and relaxed.

It important to note that cats can override any sedative given. When cats freak out, they honestly are fearing for their lives and the fight or flight survival adrenaline will kick in and it will be as though they were never sedated. So don’t ever think they can be sedated to the point they aren’t afraid.

The point with the Gabapentin is just to have one thing perhaps in your favor. I would do a trial with it a week before the appointment to see how much it helps.

Don’t expect to use the same carrier. That carrier is now seen as a portal to Hell by your cat. Much like the treat you gave. She will never go in it again. A different brand new carrier, maybe. You need one where the top can be removed.

You may need to get a humane trap. This sucks because it will frighten her. If you go the trap method, put a towel or blanket over it and bate it with some really good food that is not her normal. Because, she will never eat that food again.

Ask the veterinarian how they will sedate your cat and anesthetize for the procedures. If they say anything about “gassing her down” or using a “ gas induction chamber” run, don’t walk away as this is an archaic Neanderthal method of anesthesia that extremely risky for the cat and stresses them beyond belief.

Usually the cat can be given the sedation/ anesthetic without even getting her out of the carrier. Provided the staff know what they are doing.

Midazolam can often be added to the mix of drugs given as an injection. The good thing about Midazolam is that it causes amnesia so she won’t remember anything.

I would have a full physical done with bloodwork and have her completely shaved. I would only do the absolutely necessary vaccines if at all because you don’t want to overload her system.

At home I would just let her be herself. Don’t try to interact with her and do yourbest not to look at her. These kinds of highly reactive cats can think it is a threat.

I have one who was many generations feral and traumatized. It took years before she would sit with me. It took a decade before she would stop running away every time I got up. She still does it sometimes. Now she is friendly and talkative and will crawl on my shoulder while meowing in my face. It just takes removing all cat perceived threats and basically ignoring them. Other than to feed water and litter.
 

gloriajh

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Hello there,

I am in need of some outside the box advice, tips, tricks, whatever you've got, for getting my cat inside the box (her crate) so I can take her to the vet.

We've had Peanut for over two years, but it's clear she was not actually "adoptable" yet when we adopted her. Not the humane society's fault; they were overcapacity and Peanut's quirks let her slide by as simply being "shy". Is she just feral? Has she been abused? No way to know since her history at intake was inconsistant and unreliable (but we do strongly suspect abuse after having spent so much time with her). We've worked with behaviourists, our vet, experienced oet owners, etc., and no one's quite sure how to help her. We still cannot touch her this much later despite trying everything that's been suggested to us.

And that would be fine, honestly. We're okay with a cat who doesn't want to be held or pet. We're happy to just give her home where she can feel safe and content. The issue is that we're struggling to fully meet her physical health needs as we can't brush her and of course getting her to the vet isn't going great this year. Her fur is prone to matting but trying to catch her to brush her the first time was... well, let's just say my arms are very scarred from the attempt.

Last year we were able to trick her into her crate to get her to the vet (where she had to be put under just so she could be shaved, inspected, and vaccinated). She's currently overdue for her annual vet visit. Peanut is not about to fall for that trap a second time (she's still scared of the treat we lured her with last time even though it's her favourite). Just "catching" her is likely to injur both us and her with how wild she gets. There's no food that seems to entice her and leaving her crate out for her to get used to hasn't done a thing.

Basically, short of asking someone over tag her with a tranq dart, we're not real sure how to safely get her into her crate without injury to us or her. We'd love any weird ideas that you've had success with that maybe weren't "by the book" so to speak. Anything safe is fair game as far as we're concerned.

I hope it's fine I've asked for advice here. Oour cat is certainly closer to feral than she is domesticated at this point...
My experience: I put the crate into one of my bathrooms. I close all other doors except the bathroom door. I herd the cat into the bathroom, and once in there I close the door. Now, I usually "towel" them - I throw the towel over them, and in an effort not to get scratched or bitten, I wrap the towel around them, securing their head and feet. I then place them in front of the carrier, and push them inside the carrier. Also, the carrier was sprayed with catnip spray. I take the towel with me to the vet - finding it very useful.

On a previous occasion I had to do this procedure to 12 feral cats because we were moving them to a new home location. I made a "path" to the bathroom, I herded each feral cat into the bathroom where I had a carrier waiting for them inside the tub that was enclosed with sliding doors. The waiting carrier had a towel with the scent of catnip. The cat would run to hide in the carrier that was in the tub, and then I would then quickly close the carrier door. I did this procedure for the 12 ferals - it worked every time.

Keeping the carrier covered seems to help limit the stress. I live in HOT Arizona, so I usually have an ice pack under a towel layer, and, OH, but.... because it's hot, I can't cover the carrier. :) 1) pic of 15 cats being transported - 12 were feral, 2) my cat infirmary where I was able to put Pepper into a carrier to transport to the vet appointment(s).
 

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FriendofFerals

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I have one like this. Close the doors, block the "unders" *bed, couch, etc. and throw a towel over them, If they fight and wrestle, it's fine just stuff them in the carrier like that. If they aren't violent you can maybe get them in a canvas "cat bag" with a hole for the head, but I have one that can still get out.

He was abused, starved to 2lbs and thrown from a truck at night, in the rain, in a cat carrier. I only know this from two ladies who saw it happen and brought him to the farm. I honestly didn't know if he was a cat or something else based on how bad he looked. Years later and he's 100% indoors now, he's still violent at the vet. We've been turned away more than once but one saintly vet was able to wrangle, sedate him and remove most of his teeth thanks to severe stomatitis and a malocclusion of the jaw.

Sometimes, they just never get better beyond a certain point after abuse/trauma and you have to work with what you have. The vet for this (monster cat that will spit in your face like a pit viper) recommended a device called the Calm Cozy Wrap. It's like a swaddle without holes for the legs but has access flaps in the back for injections. It's like a towel +++ and the reason I haven't gotten one yet is the $$$ but if it comes down to that or nothing...I'll pay it.

Calm & Cozy Cat Wrap - Medium
 
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