HELP! First time with a feral

[Shannon777]

Hello, long story short is I am planning on trapping and bringing in a young female feral cat next Wed a.m. I've been getting the cat used to going in and out of the trap and have a feeding schedule so I feel comfortable with that. This is the first time I've ever tried to domesticate a feral although I've had cats for many years. Currently I have one 12 year old cat who has been indoors her whole life.

So, once I pick the feral cat up from the vet after being spayed, my plan is to put her in a spare bedroom in a 4 tier kennel/cage with food, water, toys, litter box, beds and a cave bed. Also plan on throwing a black sheet over the top and letting her be for a day or two (other than food, etc.). Then about a week or two (or whenever she is calm and ready, I plan on either (1) letting her our of the enclosure to have full use of the bedroom for a week or two and then stack baby gates at the door to allow interaction with Becca until the time is right to let her out into the rest of the house or (2) put her in a pet playpen and do the Socialization Saves Lives program.

Questions:
1. Should I be using a smaller one level kennel v. a 4 tier kennel at first? No idea how she will react.
2. If I decide to go with the SSL program, what keeps a feral cat from shredding the playpen? I have no idea if they are strong enough to withstand a potential wild cat that wants to escape.

I'm nervous but there is a window of opportunity to save this cat. She's young enough and has taken an interest in what's happening indoors (peering through the window...it's getting cold). I feel like with patience and time all will be well but need to kind of get a feel for how to start this all off on the right foot.

 

[Mamanyt1953]

I am not experienced with bringing ferals in, mine are all outdoors due to lease restrictions. However, what I can tell you is that this is a long-haul situation that you'll have to take as it comes. Time and patience are your best friends here. I am of the opinion that, barring certain medical conditions (chemical, brain damage, etc), ALL ferals can be transitioned IF you have enough of that time and patience. We've seen successful transitions here that took over a year. Do not lose heart on this!

 

[allmykitties]

The four-level will probably be fine (though I would try to go in/out and chat with her on a regular basis from the start).

What I've done with mine (I now have three former ferals) was to start them out in my bathroom (I have a cabinet style vanity, and I made one door open/one shut--you can look in the Gotcha Day thread to see an early picture of two of them, my boys Jemmy and Leo who came from different mothers but were born around the same time (it's not easy to be sure, the first time I saw them was in June of that year). I'd come in and talk to them every time I needed to use the restroom, the twice a day for feeding and again for litterbox cleaning. I don't know about the playpen ... I tried that once when introducing my tortie cat (Cosette, now approximately 9yo, she showed up and was probably a refugee from a hoarder house), and she managed to squeeze out the top rather than trying to shred it.

Young enough, you may not have the full feral "trying to escape" going on, and may have a happy housecat fairly soon. (The boys were ready within a month, and I really only waited that long to introduce them to the others because of that lingering upper respiratory infection). Pandora (my other former feral) is about 1.5 years old now and also adapted pretty quickly.

 

[Kwik]

Hi and welcome to TCS Shannon777

Sounds great that you are going to rescue this feral( does she have a name?) How long have you been working with her outside? Are you making contact,petting?

For starters to transition a feral to indoors containment is the best way to begin and having the 4tier in a separate room is ideal- if it were nit for having a resident cat then you could put the enclosure elsewhere where there's more activity ( you) to acclimate her to the sounds of normal daily house sounds and you moving about- so it's good she's in a separate room but will likely take a bit linger to get used to the house sounds - this means you should spend a lot of time in that room

The most important thing to remember with any adult feral is that "territory" is their top priority,having an established territory that has all resources is what makes them tick- they feel confident,comfortable,safe and secure in their familiar environment

That's the reason containment( a cage or enclosure is preferable to " a room" - smaller containment is better- for a minimum of 30days- in 30 to 60 days cats typically have firmly established their territiry- this is when you could begin giving them access to the small room to " expand that territory ".....depending on the cat,but more likely than not giving a feral too many options of places to hide and ways to avoid interaction will take a very very very ( if ever) long time to socialize if you leave the choices to them

This is how you recondition behavior- by environmental modification..cats are a domestic animal,the environment is what caused " feral " state or behavior

So you don't want to cover the enclosure fully,only cover have - have a cubby to hide on an upper teir,covering thst side.... you can feed on a mid level but probably begin with just outside the cubby .... water source on ground level in one corner and litter box opposite and nearest your door for easy access

Remember dhe has no idea what a litter box is so it's good to begin with dirt from outside,cleaning it and adding dirt for about the first week,then you can very gradually begin mixing litter in with the dirt.... you do want a reliable litter box user ,feral go wherever they choose outside and rarely in the same place twice

No baby gates or door open for at minimum 2or 3weeks- she will be fearful of toilets flushing,refrigerator motor,heat or a/c runnimg,water running,TV sounds etc etc..... the muffled noises from the closed door room is a gentle introduction to indoor life

This seems rather long so I'll pause here- much more to talk about if you want a content,confident kitty thst doesn't hide and eventually co- habitat peacefully with your resident kitty - becoming the loving companion,house cat she deserves to be

 

[Kwik]

Hi Shannon777
If you feel like reading ( super long thread) I documented my love bug Timmy's story from right before his crazy capture with me crippled before my knee replacement---anyway,there's alot of info about transitioning an adult feral to indoor life and on to being the loving cuddle bum he is ,including peacefully merging into a 4 cat household

Timmy was(is) a very territorial ,dominant personality cat- he was by himself hiding ,hunting and guarding his territory for 6 yrs - extremely aggressive towards other cats( fur flying everywhere) .....if Timmy could be a very sweet housecat and find his respective place in a structured clowder then any cat can by patiently approaching each step along the way with love and consistency

I hope it will encourage you, you'll get all the support and suggestions you want here at TCS- you've come to the right place,,many wonderful people here to help

Timmy,7yr old TNR true feral! COLD TURKEY!

 

[Shannon777]

Ok, I trapped Callie and she's now 6 days post spay and currently residing in a large dog playpen in a separate bedroom in the house. She sleeps most of the time, is eating and using the litterbox all of which are fantastic! She still hides when I'm around although for a brief period today she did pop her head out of the blankets and I did the blinking while not staring directly her today. All that being said, I just feel like she needs to get out and move around more. She's not getting any exercise at all. When is the time I can let her have the room. It's not a big room and it's cat proofed with no place for her to hide other than the various cave beds, box and cat trees with cubbies. Don't want to move too fast but feel like she'll need vertical space at least after she heals from the spay (2 weeks?). Anyone have any thoughts on when I should move to the full room. It's really not much larger than the play pen.

 

[Shannon777]

P.S. She's not trying to get out of the play pen at all. Just hiding and sleeping.

 

[Kwik]

Ok, I trapped Callie and she's now 6 days post spay and currently residing in a large dog playpen in a separate bedroom in the house. She sleeps most of the time, is eating and using the litterbox all of which are fantastic! She still hides when I'm around although for a brief period today she did pop her head out of the blankets and I did the blinking while not staring directly her today. All that being said, I just feel like she needs to get out and move around more. She's not getting any exercise at all. When is the time I can let her have the room. It's not a big room and it's cat proofed with no place for her to hide other than the various cave beds, box and cat trees with cubbies. Don't want to move too fast but feel like she'll need vertical space at least after she heals from the spay (2 weeks?). Anyone have any thoughts on when I should move to the full room. It's really not much larger than the play pen.

She doesn't need to move around more- at least 10-14days she needs rest after surgery.... it's only been 6 days

Typically ferals do best contained and a small space to transition to the indoors,you do not know how she will act if you let her into the room.... you did say she is feral,yes?You would not want her to open her incision or hurt herself,when is she having her follow up appt or is she not going back to the Vet?

What happened to the 4tier enclosure you planned to use?

 

[Shannon777]

I really thought I was well prepared but I ended up returning the enclosures I had and ordering a different one. Of course the one time I needed something delivered on time it didn't get here so I was left with the 62" x 62" by 36" play pen I had bought originally thinking I would do the Socialization Saves Lives method. So it's not a small enclosure and has everything she needs. My only issue is the lack of vertical space but I'm probably overthinking it. You're right; I don't want her jumping around on cat trees until she's fully healed anyway. She has never hissed at anyone this whole time and I've reach into the enclosure several times to tidy things up and change out the litter box and she has never made any moves towards me or to escape at all. Even when she was in the trap for 8 hours she didn't fight to get out at all. There is no plan to return her to vet just due to stress that will put on her. I just don't want to be cruel and leave her in any enclosure (other than a room) for too long. Maybe starting to uncover the enclosure more may make it feel less like a cave.

 

[Shannon777]

P.S. Yes, she is a feral. I have seen her outside since she was a kitten but made the assumption that she was someone's pet. I really wasn't paying attention until it start to get cold. I live in Minnesota and knew there was a small window of opportunity given the cold coming, I knew she was a female (calico) and hadn't had kittens yet and I she seemed to be living alone behind the house (no colony as far as I could tell). .

 

[Kwik]

Don't worry Shannon777 ,you are over thinking it- being in the containment and partially covered is what is keeping her calm....she's fine,I promise

 

[Shannon777]

Lol, overthinking things is a problem. So after 10 days could I leave the flap open so she can come out to investigate? Still leave the playpen in there until she's comfortable outside it. What am I looking for in her behavior that would mean she's ready to move to the full room? Thank you so much!

 

[Kwik]

Lol, overthinking things is a problem. So after 10 days could I leave the flap open so she can come out to investigate? Still leave the playpen in there until she's comfortable outside it. What am I looking for in her behavior that would mean she's ready to move to the full room? Thank you so much!

Shannon- you're very welcome..... I'll tell you what I do,my method with transitioning ferals- first and foremost it is not a one size fits all- cats do have their own personalities but all cats do have the same needs and survival instincts- " what makes felines tick"

Of course everyone would like a cat that doesn't hide,thst they can pet and if they are brought in to a multi cat household,will get along peacefully with the others - right?

You'll often hear( regarding ferals especially) "Well,some cats just don't get along" or "they'll never be .... etc etc" And it simply is not so,there are steps to take to make transitioning easiest on the feral and to build their confidence,earn their trust and recondition behavior

Now I've said all that because the biggest stressor for any cat is being in an unfamiliar environment---- when they find themselves in an unfamiliar place they search for their own territory- some ferals will crash into windows ,chew on bars and can actually hurt themselves trying to get outside- many people think it the outdoors they want- it's their territory they are trying to get back to.... others get depressed,shut down.... they are all different yet all the same that whatever their reaction it's for the same need- to get " home "

So modifying a feral behavior begins with familiarizing them with the transition from outdoors( familiar sounds & scents) to a strange new world( sounds of toilets,redrigerators,TVs,etc plus no smells of dirt,grass,rain and so on) ... so the slower you go,the better

In a small containment ( your playpen size is fine btw) it can be as small as 3ft x 4ft or a large dog crate..... reason being is to acclimate to all the sounds & scents without the ability to run scared looking for a safe place to hide or overwhelmed and trying to escape.....it takes at least 30 days for a cat to " establish " their territory.... keeping any feral contained in the new environment for at least 30 days gives them adequate time to adjust and feel safe....plus you have close contact,they cannot run and hide from you and this is a good start- relationship is unimportant at this time but familiarity is- you want a confident cat who knows you are a non threatening part of this new environment ... making sense

Yes,exercise and moving around is important but as long as they can stand,walk in a circle and preferably hop up off the ground ( my choice is always at least 48" high if possible) and a cubby

During this period is when the up close will help in making physical contact- they are so focused on eating that if you make a habit of tapping the bowl and saying a cue word or phrase " time to eat" the association with tapping,food & voice command is going to help later,when they are in a bigger space to come to you without hesitation

I always keep my hand,close fist by the dish,just still and relaxed- usually in a couple of weeks I'm petting them ... but that's not even important if you're afraid or uncomfortable

So you try to spend as much time as possible talking sweetly- lying down near the cage or crate.....because at this point you are part of the environment

My suggestion is always minimum 30 days containment with adult ferals and then if you'd made physical contact or at least they are comfortable with your hand by the dish at feeding time they have established this little space as their own ... then expand the territory- I use portable kennel panels outside of the enclosure before access to the entire room- leaving the door open to a little bigger space.....if like you say,this room is very tiny then cat proof it by blocking off any places kitty might hide under or behind - the cat will explore and go back into their safe space-- you'll never have a hider this way Shannon- there's no reason to hide ,then you can start with relationship with kitty being curious about you and not all the strange new things around him

So,that's my method,suggestions and I hope it helps and encourages you..... ferals are a " domestic" species just like any other cat,it's in their DNA....feral is a condition,a conditioned behavior - now by modifying the environment you re- condition the behavior.....just keep in mind ,you do move at their pace BUT you don't give them options to avoid,then your not really modifying the environment

I know of many folks who have ferals they brought in " years" ago and the cat still hides- they are behaving as they always have because they have too many options- cats will typically choose to avoid rather than confront- sort of like fight or flight....once they perceive you are not a threat they are curious little things- you just have to help them along & not leave them in survival mode to let their instincts dictate--- love,patience,routine,consistency and TIME

I'm rambling on,long winded and hopefully not boring- the point is basically,what's 30,60 or 90 days in comparison to a relaxed,well adjusted,confident companion for the rest of their life,

 

[Shannon777]

12/12/2024 update (Day 22):

Cali is now out of the playpen and has the small bedroom to herself. She still hides from me in the various cave beds, condos and cat trees I have in the room and will not come out or show her face no matter how long I sit in there. I don't want to take all of the hiding places away but I may have to at some point. If I do happen to catch her if I walk in she stares at me intently and it's obvious she's frightened. It's like she wants to make eye contact but am I supposed to stare back and slow blink or just avoid making eye contact?

Other interesting observations:

She has not tried jumping up on anything (cat trees or windowsill). I'm thinking that could be an indication she's still not completely comfortable (it's only been 22 days LOL). When she was outside I saw her jumping quite high and climbing trees chasing after squirrels all the way to the top of a 50 foot willow. Quite the climber which is why I think she's still getting used to her surroundings.

She just started playing with a few of her toys last night. It was so cute. I figure this is a really good sign. I'm able to see how she acts during the times I'm out of the room because I have a camera with motion detection that will record when she's moving around.

Today, I petted her very briefly with a feather wand. I only did that because I have never touched her or tested where she was on the feral touch spectrum. Well she didn't swat, hiss or lunge although she stayed with her head hidden. Really no response that I could see. I may do that once a day for like 10 seconds to get her used to it. . I'm kind of waiting for her to make a move to come out when I'm in the room before I go all in on trying to pet her.

I did open up the door twice and she was watching (from the cat condo) me pet my cat Becca and show how she comes around me and isn't frightened. Just a little. Not allowing them to meet yet but just a little glimpse of what's going on outside the door.

I'm probably rushing all of this stuff but I think there's something to be said about lightly pushing her boundaries each day. Not a lot...just a little. Am I wrong? Open to all thoughts on this!

 

[Kwik]

Hi Shannon777
Well your not really rushing " things" except msybd your expectations- I'm sure you'd like things to move more quickly but they dont- and "yes" imo- you should push the boundaries ever so slightly as you go.... remember,given too many options to behave as they've always behaved,instinctually,they'll always do what they have always done- there's no reason to change & nothing to adjust to ,they don't " reason" they react to the conditions of their environment.... so what's changed,what's different? Not much except she's inside now,right?

So if you want my advice..... lol
Anyway,I still suggest taking away so many places to avoid you..she doesn't need them- one is perfect PLUS the vertical space you provided- keeping distance will be her only option besides running for cover if she's not near her one cubby,thst will motivate her to seek out the high places- once she discovers those nice perches she's going to love being up there

 

[Shannon777]

me to socialize if you leave t

Thank you for the reminder! I did remove the top of her cave bed so she only really has one cat condo to stay partially hidden. She was in the bed (only he head was hidden). Cali is a starer LOL. Almost impossible not to lock eyes with her. Am I supposed to stare back or ? I did and blinked..she blinked back but I am conflicted on whether I should be locking eyes with her because that's what she is trying to do. She's never hissed or lunged or shown any aggression but I certainly don't want to set her off. It's funny because I can certainly do a stare down with her if she wants but wondering what the response should be. Maybe just back off now. I remember reading that basically snubbing a feral cat makes the more likely to come around faster. Any thoughts on the stare down and maybe backing off a little now that we've made the eye contact again?

 

[Kwik]

Thank you for the reminder! I did remove the top of her cave bed so she only really has one cat condo to stay partially hidden. She was in the bed (only he head was hidden). Cali is a starer LOL. Almost impossible not to lock eyes with her. Am I supposed to stare back or ? I did and blinked..she blinked back but I am conflicted on whether I should be locking eyes with her because that's what she is trying to do. She's never hissed or lunged or shown any aggression but I certainly don't want to set her off. It's funny because I can certainly do a stare down with her if she wants but wondering what the response should be. Maybe just back off now. I remember reading that basically snubbing a feral cat makes the more likely to come around faster. Any thoughts on the stare down and maybe backing off a little now that we've made the eye contact again?

No,you don't want to have a stare down - its fine to make brief eye contact,close your eyes and open them slowly and of course you can look at her....their body language is not just through eye contact,upright forward ears or out to the side,back and posturing all makes up the wonderful world of communication to look for

 

[Shannon777]

No,you don't want to have a stare down - its fine to make brief eye contact,close your eyes and open them slowly and of course you can look at her....their body language is not just through eye contact,upright forward ears or out to the side,back and posturing all makes up the wonderful world of communication to look for

Hello!

Cali is settling into the bedroom well, playing with toys and she loves watching out the window at night. She and my other cat, Becca, are basically ignoring each other through a tall gate. She still hides from me although I did test out petting her with a feather toy and she really didn't react at all.

The issue is I don't have time to spend hours in the small spare room she's in so I'm thinking about integrating Cali into more of the house by opening up a few more rooms upstairs that can easily connect using another tall gate in a hallway (additional rooms include a bathroom and master bedroom). I need to see how she and Becca react to one another as well. Although I've cat proofed these additional rooms, each has a kitty cave (bed or condo) for Cali if needed.

I read about someone who has socialized feral cats for years and he, with an older feral cat, didn’t force socialization in one room but let the cat roam the whole house and just come out on its own.

What is the downside of slightly expanding Cali's controlled space so she can observe more of the day to day activities (if she wants to leave her base camp)?

Thank you!

 

[Kwik]

Well you don't integrate in one room,if that's what your referencing.... I always suggest letting cats expand their territory by letting them explore a little more area at a time- just as you are planning to do
Now if you're talking about human socialization then I disagree- not that it's not okay,it's fine but as a professional animal trainer I never had the luxury of letting a feral roam around a house and give them the option of coming around at their leisure- I need to socialize and help the unacceptable to be ready for adoption.... having said that ,using a confinement method and taking away their options is environmental modifications that are proven to successfully recondition behavior- if anyone is willing to rescue a feral and doesn't mind feral behavior that may or may not change then I suppose thats fine for them- that would never be okay for myself

So basically ,to each his own.... I have friends that have feral rescues transitioned to indoor living- 3,4& 5 yrs later they still hide,do not want to be petted etc etc- other friends the cats came around eventually- depends on the cat in that type of setting ... In my own home I don't want my cats to fear or hide or not enjoy companionship so I just show them how- it's not very difficult but you do have to have the time to invest so you're being realistic.... it's really more important your cat have a good dynamic with your resident ( since you work alot)and be comfortable & confident in his established territory so then when you do have time you can work on socialization,if you so desire

 

[Kwik]

And I see no downside to slowly expanding her space btw Shannon777

Since she's playing with toys already I have to wonder if she's merely semi feral..... adult ferals are typically clueless to what these strange objects are and they are not interested in " play" for some time,if ever

Besides,most times captured " ferals" are not usually feral ...even so called " feral " feeding colonies are pretty much made up of semi ferals..the real ferals will scrounge around after the humans left

You're going to be fine.... your Cali sounds like a nice cat....