Foster Kitten Chatter

gitabooks

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I finally did something this year I've wanted to do for a long time; I signed up for the Foster Kitten program at our local humane society.

I wanted to start a place where people fostering kittens could share stories and pictures but also ask for and give advice to one another, as I know there are plenty of others fostering kittens or mother cats and their litters for the first time.

The first thing I learned about bottle-feeding five kittens at the same time is that they demand a lot more attention then I thought they would. Day or night they insist on eating every 2-6 hours (depending on age or how much they ate last meal) and they'll let you know either by trying to nurse on one another or crying.

However, while being woken in the middle of the night isn't exactly fun, having adorable little dependent babies and seeing them grow healthy, happy, friendly and strong makes it all worth it.

I'll start with my five kittens. They were brought to the shelter at around two weeks of age (estimated birth date June 1). They had lost their mother but the people who had them gave them a bottle and helped them out for a day before bringing them to us. The shelter didn't have room to take in any more animals, but I had just finished my paperwork to foster there and so I took them and that's when it all started.

Kai, Cash, Trouble, Ollie, and Bee are now five weeks old and were wormed a few days ago for the first time. They're very, very playful and demand time out to run around my room multiple times a day (and sometimes during the night too). They use the litterbox on their own but haven't grasped the concept of eating from a dish yet. They prefer their bottle, though will drink milk mixed with wet kitten food from it as well as plain KMR.

When they first arrived they were estimated at 2-2.5 weeks of age because of how developed they were. They were crawling and had just opened their eyes but their ears remained down and they were unable to use the bathroom on their own or to really see all that well. For a few years now I have used a sideways desk as a brooder for chicks that I raised in my room and because it was free of any animals at the time I decided it would make a perfect nest for a litter of kittens. It was their den, their safe spot. It prevented them from getting cold, wet, scared, or lost. I lined the floor with towels for absorption, traction and soft texture and made their main nest out of a soft blanket that was difficult to get claws stuck in. The blanket kept them comfortable and warm and held their smell on it so they could always find it again.

Here in this picture you can see Cash snuggled up inside their blanket. Cash is a Brown classic tabby and white with a white spot on his back and a larger blaze then his sister, who is a similar color. He is independent minded for having been the runt for a couple weeks, always willing to tackle his larger siblings or wander off on an adventure.


The kittens mostly slept, ate and used the bathroom, as they do at this age. I would wake them up (or they would wake me up) feed each of them until they seemed disinterested in the bottle and then stimulate them to go (sometimes I would do so before feeding them, if I thought they really had to). I would spend some time cuddling them, holding them, petting them and lying down next to them like their mother would. When I left it was like their mother going off hunting and they would curl up and go to sleep. If they continued to mew I would cover them with the blanket so they felt more secure and like they were in a den, and so they were warmer too.

This, again, is Cash. He had to get a rinse when he got a messy behind, but no real baths were necessary. All the kittens needed a rinse at some point because I was not willing to lick the like a mother cat would.  : )


When the towel or blanket would get dirty or smelly I would replace it with a new one, which quickly regained a familiar scent to them. They would crawl around beside me, mewing and trying to climb up closer to my face while I took turns feeding each one. When I laid down next to them in the box they would always nose me and mew extra loud, trying to find milk, so the only way to get them to sleep was to leave. Unlike our first orphan kitten we raised, Nym, being kept in a group meant if one was awake they all tended to be.

The two black kittens, Trouble and Kai, are difficult to tell apart unless you look at their tummies. Kai has a small white spot where his bellybutton would be. He is also the smaller of the two, though when we first got them he was actually larger.


For a while Cash was the runt. He was one of the largest when we first got him but then he seemed to have trouble with latching onto the nipple and would chew at it or lick it. He also got the bloat for a little while before I realized the kittens needed burped. Burping young kittens is very important because bottle feeding means they will get more air inside of them then they would naturally with a mother cat and this can cause stomach upset and other issues. Over-feeding can also cause issues with runny droppings and stomach upset.

To prevent them eating too much I would let them drink until they released, then set them down and do the rest of the kittens, then give them all a second, small helping to make sure they were full and ready to go to sleep. They also tended to like a little snack after being stimulated to use the bathroom, as this was not always a fun process in their opinion (or mine) and could stress them out.

Again, this is Cash. He seemed to sit still the best for pictures.


As they got older the kittens began arguing over the bottle and their claws became very sharp and uncomfortable (to say the least). It was to the point where I dreaded spending time with the kittens, as the summer heat meant I didn't want to wear long-sleeves and pants but their little claws were leaving dozens of tiny little scratches on my neck, face, hands, arms, legs and feet. I had to put up with it, like a mother cat does with youngsters. They weren't yet old enough to know what scolding would mean, and besides, if I had had fur it wouldn't have mattered.

A towel on my lap or long pants were the best answer as far as preventing scratches on my legs. I would hold the kitten being fed up above the others. You can also simply take them out of the box, but a mother cat remains with the litter while feeding them, letting them remember her scent and nuzzle into her fur (or lack their of in my case).  : )

Again, Cash, perched on my knees to get out of reach of the other kittens. While a kitten naturally feeds on its belly, to get them to latch onto the nipple I would generally have to hold them at a slant, letting them rest their paws on my hand like their would their mother's stomach and supporting them with the other hand wrapped around them or on their belly.


The first day they came home they were so tiny! I tried weighing them with a food scale, but when they wouldn't sit still it made it wobble and the weight fluctuated. However, with so few kittens it is pretty easy to keep track of which ones look like they are growing and which ones have empty stomachs or prominent ribs.

Nestled into their "nest" these are the two remaining kittens, Oliver (Ollie) and Bee. Oliver is a brown mackeral tabby while Bee is a brown mackeral tabby and white. Oliver is the type to be slightly delicate personality wise. He is quick to react to loud sounds, enjoys sitting in corners just to observe (we call them contemplation corners) and likes to be petted as much as played with. Bee is the super sweet, snuggely little playful queen of the world. As the only girl in the litter, she knows she rules. She is full of energy, and the first to use the litter box on her own, groom herself, and show play behavior. She loves to try new things, but also adores just sitting with you and purring while she gets petted or having her tummy tickled while she kicks her little feet.


I'd love for others to share their stories and tips too. The more I learn about how to work with foster kittens the better I can help the shelter this Kitten Season.

: )
 
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gitabooks

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While all shelters do things differently, our shelters foster kitten program usually goes something like this:

Someone says they have kittens to drop off and brings them in. They are given an examination and kept for a day or two in quarantine to make sure they are healthy and won't spread anything to any other animals. A foster family comes in and takes them home with all the supplies they will need (bottles, milk, canned food, a crate, ect) and keeps them until they are at least eating solid food, sometimes until they are old enough to be adopted. If they ever get sick, need vaccinations or need dewormed they are returned for a short check-up. They are then neutered/spayed and put up for adoption either at the shelter its self or at the pet store the works with us to help adopt them out.

Some of the kittens that have been fostered this year include Tressa and Twinkle here (this I think was around the time they were being fixed before adoption). Tressa is the white one and is also deaf. Both have been adopted this June.


Talulah and Trinity (siblings to the two above). Talulah has this awesome brown patch above her eye but is otherwise just orange tabby and white. Trinity is pure white like her sister, Tressa. Both have been adopted.  : )


Steve and Collin aren't siblings, but we put them together so they would be happier. I believe they are currently in another foster home after Collin got over a sickness he was fighting (you can see in this picture he's pretty skinny and needed a heat-pad to sleep on until he got better). Steve is the younger but livelier of the two with a cute little snub-nose.  : )


Rambo, a cream colored tabby boy who came to us in terrible shape. This is him when he started to get better and more playful (though his eyes still show the signs of the infection he had). Once he started to get better he was able to go off to a foster home to wait his turn to be adopted.


Boodle came to the shelter at just a week or two of age and has been fostered on and off as he grew and got older and older. This is him not long before he was put up for adoption. He found a forever home this June.  : )


Angeldust, one of the many older kittens that come in and need fostered for just a week or two before they are able to be fixed and put up for adoption. She came in with her two sisters (Copycat and Weasel) and has since been adopted. She is a polydactyly and so was one of her sisters.


Mac and Domino came in old enough to be put up for adoption, but only after they were fixed and Domino got over severe dehydration and sickness. He could barely lift his head when he was brought in and in just a few days made a full recovery. They are waiting for their forever homes, available for adoption.


Other kittens we've had this year include Wesley, Vader, Zeke, Sirius, Rowan, Walinda, Edgar, Ash, Dusky, Ebony, Elliot, Welch, Mazda, Sazuki, Toyota, Honda, Smith, Nissan, Fred, Nutmeg, Naomi, Newton, and Nash. Some were brought in once they were old enough, others at younger ages. Even if you just keep a stray kitten until it is 8 weeks old that is almost the same as fostering since you are helping the shelter a great deal but waiting until the kitten doesn't take up time, space, and food that could go to more critical cases, like the sick or injured. Many of the kittens that come in have respiratory infections, injuries, are fearful, or have a stomach upset from the stress or parasites. They need the care, quarantine, and special diets a shelter can offer. The healthier kittens just need the love, affection and socialization that will prepare them for their forever home.
 

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What a lovely journal you have written here. Thank you for the wonderful foster work you are doing, and for sharing pictures and experiences.

Keep up the nice work! [emoji]128522[/emoji][emoji]128062[/emoji][emoji]128062[/emoji][emoji]128149[/emoji]
 
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gitabooks

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Cute little Cash having his tummy tickled.


Bee getting cuddles. She is so, so, so sweet she lays down beside you and just purrs her little heart-out, trusting you completely.


Bee showing her mischievious side as she plays.


It's hard to tell, but I think this is Trouble. I've started using a paper collar sometimes to tell the two apart from a distance. Kai suddenly outgrew Trouble in just like three days and so its more confusing then ever to tell which one is which. Cash outgrew Bee as well.

 
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gitabooks

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TIPS ON SOCIALIZATION::::

Here are some things I've learned about how to prepare foster kittens for their new home. They need to be ready for anything, noisy houses, dogs, other cats, children, car rides, vet visits, and so much more. When they are babies is when their mother teaches them the different things they need to learn about life and without their mother there it is up to the foster parent to do that for them.

By the way, these tips are for kittens 4-8 weeks old, younger kittens mostly just need to sleep and eat and too much handling will stress them and may lead to increased risk of spreading infection diseases to them.

No matter what age the kittens are, try to spend time gently holding, petting, cuddling or playing with the kitten(s) every feeding session. Don't just make it a robotic "you ate now go to bed" process, make it like the mother would, where she cleans them, purrs, snuggles around them and lets them feel her fur and smell her breath. It is a bonding process that makes them trust people more.

.....

Try to raise foster kittens together, even with others that aren't their siblings. They will learn how to behave with other cats, get more energy out, have someone to always snuggle with, feel competetive (and so eat better) and learn how to play without using their claws and teeth too rough.

...

Introduce them to a crate early on, and make it a positive thing. If they are eating from a dish then feed them in it, let them sleep in it with a cuddly blanket, carry them to a new and fun room inside of it, take them on short trips in the car without it leading to a vet (not exactly positive for the cat). Let it be like their safe place, their den.

.....

Teach them about which toys to play with early on. Don't encourage playing with strings, as they may eat them and choke. Instead, use rope, paper, cat toys, cardboard paper-towel rolls, ect. Get creative but don't start bad habits early on.

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Let all the family members handle the kittens, no matter the age. Tell them to be gentle and not grab them, squeeze them or force them to sit still for long periods. Kittens want to feel free, and their mother doesn't often force them to sit still. Instead, make handling always positive. Lift them up in a safe manner so they don't feel off-balance (larger kittens need extra support on their back-ends that little guys might not need). Offer treats, the bottle, play time, or cuddle time. Don't just make picking up have to do with putting them to bed.

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Introduce them to various rooms in your house or other peoples house (if your shelter allows them to be taken to other places). Let a variety of age groups handle them so they are use to the different way a child might do things compared with an adult or a teen. Let them experience couches, beds, tables, ect. Try not to encourage bad habits like climbing the drapes, scratching at furniture or eating off the table, but don't prevent them from being kittens. Kittens will naturally cause a little more damage to things as they learn how to use their claws and teeth. Watch for them chewing on electrical cords, strings, or other dangerous objects while they explore.

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Introduce your kittens to a variety of pets (all of them safe and not risking disease spreading). Older cats may be immune to diseases a kitten could catch so until they are vaccinated it may be best to keep older cats away from your kitten. However, introducing to dogs, certain livestock, parrots (make sure the parrot won't harm them), and the sight or sound of other household pets will make them far less likely to cause trouble in a new household or be frightened. Even if you don't let the animals meet each other, letting them get use to each others presence will make a big difference in how prepared your kitten will be for its new life.

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Introduce only safe foods in cat dishes for your kitten to learn to eat from. Encourage litter box use and start right away with cat litter. Don't let them think it is okay to use something else as a litter box and don't encourage begging for treats (begging for the bottle is normal) or eating unhealthy foods. However, kittens naturally learn to eat from what their mother brings them, so introduce a variety of safe foods like little bits of meat, different flavors of canned food, and maybe a little taste of whipped cream.  : )

.....

Praise a kitten with play, cuddles, pettings or the bottle for doing something good like using the litter box for the first time, not using its claws while playing, or asking to cuddle (encouraging contact will make a friendlier pet in the future). Don't scold young kittens for scratching, biting or missing the litter box (this is normal) but do not let them get away with it. Instead, place them in the litter box when you catch them so they get the hint, stop playing with them if they are scratching or start using a toy instead, offer another toy in place of a string or cord they are chewing on, ect. As they get older you may begin to use no for certain things, but letting the new owner tell a kitten what is and isn't allowed is probably for the best.

....

Do not introduce a kitten to the out-doors until it is vaccinated, and even then, doing so will only make them want it more. The new owner may not want the kitten out-doors, so letting the owner-to-be decide is, again, for the best.

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Do not frighten a kitten with loud sounds and sudden movements, but also do not keep things peaceful and quiet. They need to know what a regular house will be like. Play music, watch TV, walk around the room doing stuff, ect. This will get them use to what they will experience for the rest of their lives. However, avoid highly frightening situations that will build phobias such as sweepers, blenders, or trying to bathe them in a way that frightens them (a rinse with warm water is alright, but loud tubs may spook them and make them afraid to ever be washed again).

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Introducing a collar and/or leash can be done but isn't really necessary. Kittens are often given temporary collars at shelters to tell them apart. If you want to introduce a harness, leash-walking or the like then feel free, but make sure it is a positive experience or you will only be making it more difficult on a new owner to train them towards these things. Don't ask too much from your kitten, remember, they are still independent minded and they are just learning the ropes of things. Don't push them to be perfect, just prepare them for life.

....

Make sure to just simply have fun with your kittens. Cuddle them when they ask for it, play with them when they are being silly-cats, and watch their antics when you feel stressed. No matter what trouble they cause you they'll always make up for it by being adorable.  : )
 
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gitabooks

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One of the really cool things I've found about my five kittens is how unique their personalities can be. It's getting to know these individual traits that helps me work with each one in the best way for their own needs. For example, Ollie is the type to enjoy sitting off to the side and studying his surroundings before getting involved. Bee and Cash, however, tend to like to jump in to a new situation as soon as they see it. Trouble just loves to play with the others and often hangs out with his look-alike brother, Kai.

Bee wags her tail more than the others, while playing and while cuddling. She is also the first to try new things such as using the litter box, playing, grooming, ect.

Ollie, however, is the only one eating from a dish more than drinking from a bottle. He is like the big-brother, calmer and more considerate than the others.

Cash is the crazy boy, he likes to pick on the others and test his limits, but he still likes some pettings form his mommy now and again.

All of them are crazy energetic right now, learning to climb, stalk, pounce, tackle, hiss (they love to practice this on each other), puff up their fur, and are getting better about being gentle with their claws.

It'll be fun to see how they continue to grow over the next couple weeks before their adoption.  : )
 
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gitabooks

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Even though I had five foster kittens of my own, I enjoy helping as many animals as I can and we have a big family and a big house. The shelter supplies us with food, crates, and litter so we didn't have to worry about that. The Humane Society was also so full and the staff so busy I thought I would help if I could foster a few more cats. Now, including the five I currently am working with, I also have Lyla (formerly Lazy Bones) and her trio of week-old babies along with Fred, the blue kitten, who is almost old enough to be neutered and put up for adoption.

Fred will only be here a few days, my five will likely be here a couple weeks, Lyla will be here as long as she needs to be with Ozzie, Nocturne and Twilight (her trio).

I'll post pictures soon.  : )
 

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Just wanted to give a big Thank You to everyone who does the noble work of fostering. Your caring, kindness, and devotion to these babies in need is much appreciated.
 
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gitabooks

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Foster kitten pictures!!! Right now I have 10 foster cats in the house: Lyla and her three kittens (Nocturne, Twilight and Oz), Fred, and then the five (Bee, Ollie, Trouble, Kai and Cash).

This here I'm pretty sure his Trouble, because of the shorter face and eager blue eyes. His eyes are beginning to change but he is a real trouble-maker in that he insists, even at 6 weeks, that he get a bottle three times a day. Ollie is completely weaned onto milk and wet-food in a dish, Cash is almost there and Bee and Kai are making head-way. Trouble, however, gave me nasty scratches trying to climb up my legs to hint me it was time to eat. I love the little guy anyways though.   : )


Cash and Ollie playing together. They are getting a little rougher with each other, but this is good, every time they hurt each other they realize that scratching and biting is mean and are gentler about it with one another and with me. Cash always wins anyways though.


Not sure if this is Kai or Trouble, but whoever it is just is so adorable!!!!!


This little buddy is (I believe) Ozzie. His eyes are just starting to open. Believe it or not he is one week old! Because they were so tiny at birth he is now the size of about a day-old kitten. Lyla decided she liked the security of being behind a matress leaned against the wall of the walk-in-closet where she lives. She moved her kittens there with her. She also finally used the bathroom after a couple days of holding it in. She ate all her food, drank all her water, and is more lively, healthy, and at easy. Her greasy and smelly fur is making progress with her own grooming and my brushing and wiping her with a damp cloth. It's amazing to see the transformation.


Nocturne, Oz, and Twilight. Nocturne (named after a Celtic song) is the darkest and smallest as well as liveliest. Oz is the largest and lightest while Twilight is in between.


Look how skinny poor Lyla is! She was so weak from being young and trying to carry and support 6 kittens that she could barley walk when we first let her out. She stretches a lot and enjoys being petted and brushed with a flea comb (she has fleas but we're going to treat her for that). She is strengthening up and enjoying the space to move around.


Lyla again. She didn't sit still very well, and the lighting was bad, but hopefully I can get a better picture of her soon.


Fred, our singleton foster kitten. He is a total pig because he came in stunted and loaded with parasites. He is trying to catch up to the 8 week old weight of 2 lbs he is suppose to be and with his appetite that won't be long.


Walinda is another kitten we may foster once Fred weighs enough to be neutered.


We're also considering the 4 calicos and their brother, Bolt. Their second brother, Benny, passed away.  : (    Hopefully they will make progress and get better, as they still are struggling with weakness and respiratory issues.


Bubbles and Batgirl.


A new kitten just came in, Tesla (he's a dude) and he is the sweetest, cutest little long-haired cat ever. We're considering fostering him once he is treated for parasites and given the go ahead.
 

This means we have a choice with Walinda, the 5 Calico siblings, Tesla, and possibly Domino, Rowan, Newton, Ash, or Nutmeg (older kittens that are struggling with health issues which are holding them back from adoption).

I'll keep you all updated!!  : )
 

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Poor Lyla looks like she has quite a bit of catching up to do! Are all 6 of her kittens still alive? Poor gal!

What a tremendous service you are doing for these cats and kittens!
 
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gitabooks

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Unfortunately, three of her kittens died during or just after birth. I was the one who found her in her crate giving birth. They thought she might be pregnant, but because she was so thin none of us thought she would be due so soon (just a day or two after being brought in). I tried my best to help that first guy out, as the vet wasn't there to do so, but he passed away a few minutes later. However, her second two were assisted as soon as they were born by myself, another volunteer and my mother and we helped Lyla feel comfortable while helping to dry the kittens (to keep them warm) and make sure they could breath and nurse.

We were sure she was done after just those three, so my mother and I left. The next day we heard she had two more!! How she managed to have 6 kittens inside of her without showing a sign is beyond me. They were so tiny at birth, but they are making great progress now, the three that survived, able to crawl around, mew, nurse, and snuggle together for warmth. They have such a caring mother, she does almost all the work for them. She cleans them, feeds them, snuggles with them, and whenever they call for her she always looks so concerned and hurries back to them to make sure they are alright.

I'm sure going to fall in love with this sweetie during the weeks we foster her. I sure hope she finds a wonderful home once she is put up for adoption (and of course spayed
).
 
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gitabooks

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REASONS WHY CATS NEED FOSTERING:::::

A kitten is orphaned and needs to be bottle-fed:::::

A shelter has more critical cases to work on and not the time or space to be raising babies that need to eat every 2-4 hours around the clock. Orphaned kittens requiring milk need the social life of being in a house with a family and learning how to play, climb, wrestle, eat solid food, and not to bite or be afraid that only one-on-one (or a litter of siblings) could give. This is one of the best ways to get healthy, tame kittens, as they are quarantined from their mother and from other cats from a young age.

A cat has behavioral issues that need worked on before it can be adopted:::::

A cat may have a fear or aggression towards humans, be uncertain in a house-hold, have phobias, litter-box issues, or other behavioral difficulties that need the time and patience of a temporary home to work past. They will still require an understanding owner afterwards, but that first home makes the experience better for both animal and person.

A cat has health issues that need treated before adoption::::

Both young and old, cats often are dropped off at shelters because they were so sick someone noticed and wanted to help. Short-term health issues like a cut, respiratory infection, or even a broken leg can be treated at a rescue by the vets. However, long-term health issues like multiple broken bones, chronic pain or illness, cancer, blindness, amputations, internal damage, deep gashes, and cats too over-weight or thin need more then just some medication, they need time, one-on-one care, a gentle hand to stroke them and a warm blanket to cuddle on. This socialization helps the healing process as well as bonding, trust, and taming. Such cats may always be special-needs, but that care when they most need it helps them, the rescue which may not have the time, space or money for such long-term care, as well as giving you a wonderful experience you would never have had otherwise.

The rescue doesn't have enough room:::::

During kitten season a shelter may get so many cats that it can't take in any more. This such cases, offering to foster some of the more difficult to adopt-out cats (fearful, not as interesting looking, aggressive, older) makes a big difference. It allows more cats to be helped and adopted while allowing the shelter not to be over-loaded, which is stressful on the staff members as well as the animals. Some rescues are foster only, others foster only some of their animals, some may foster only the most critical cases (young kittens, ect).

A kitten is too small to be neuter/spayed or vaccinated::::

A kitten may be eating solid food, using a litter box, and able to run, climb, and groom but that doesn't mean it is at a healthy weight to be put under for surgery or given an injection of a virus. It is likely old enough to be wormed, but waiting until they are healthy, of good weight, and the proper age and size is critical. It may only be a few days, it may be a couple weeks, but no matter what every hour in a normal house-hold environment with one-on-one care or a chance to play with other kittens means something to these animals. It also massively helps the rescue they come from, as they can focus their attention, supplies, and time on newly acquired or sick cats.

A mother cat is pregnant or nursing young::::
A mother cat may be in the early stages of pregnancy, just about to give birth, or caring for kittens under 8 weeks of age. Whatever it may be, she needs a peaceful environment with space to roam and get away from her kittens, and not the stress of hearing, seeing and smelling other animals. It also quarantine the kittens away from sick cats that may be brought in, keeping them safer when their immune systems are still young. You can help the kittens stay healthy, tame and socialize them to people, a regular house-hold and all its sounds and movements, other household pets (dogs, rabbits, ect), and learn their individual personalities. It can also help tame the mother and bring her back up to health, as some mother's may not have had proper nutrition during pregnancy or had issues with parasites.

The kittens should be kept with her for at least 8 weeks ideally (unless a sickness should cause the need to separate them), and most breeders say 12-16 weeks is better. All you have to do is bring them in to the rescue to get them wormed, vaccinated, microchipped (if done), and neutered/spayed.

These things make a huge difference to the staff and volunteers of the humane society, the animals being kept, and to the new owners that get a friendly, playful, sweet animal that doesn't startle when someone reaches for them, stands up or turns on a noisy tv.

If you can't adopt, already own a couple long-term cats, or can't afford to buy your own cat supplies (some rescues will give you all the supplies you need) this is a great way to work with cats, help rescues, and have wonderful experiences.

: )
 
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gitabooks

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Lyla's trio are doing surprisingly well, thank God. They are half the size they should be and apparently pooping all over themselves. We have to stimulate them and possibly bathe them multiple times a day to keep them healthy until they grow into their skin. The poor little things are the size of newborns at 10 days old, but they are purring and their eyes have opened. SOOO CUTE!!! Lyla is being vigilant and gaining weight as she makes progress towards being healthy herself.

Fred is also doing well. He'll be staying until Wednesday probably, when he will hopefully weigh enough to be neutered and put up for adoption.

My five kittens won't be ready until the 25th or so.

I won't expect Lyla or her babes to be ready for at least 6 weeks, possibly longer, so they're in for the long-run with me.  : )
 

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Are you supplementing Lyla's kittens? Are they gaining the minimum 6-10 grams apiece daily?

I wonder if poor Lyla's milk even has enough fat in it for them?

Is Lyla getting Nutrical paste, yogurt, eggs, or boiled chicken in addition to her wet/dry diet?
 
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gitabooks

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Thank you so much for the suggestions!!

I talked to the Humane Society vet and she said she would buy some nutrical paste for me to supplement Lyla with. For now she is on EN food, which is high in nutrients. She is eating very well and drinking a lot, so I'm glad for that (and a kitten is playing with my keyboard right now).

I'm going to begin weighing the kittens daily, as well as stimulating them every 2-6 hours and rinsing them off if they are dirty. They are very lively for being so tiny, and their little bellies are nice and round, so they are getting enough milk. They are also able to crawl very well (for their size that is) and will snuggle to each other for warmth when momma is out eating. I even heard one of them purring when I held it! So sweet!!
 

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I'm glad you will be getting nutrical paste. Every little bit helps with the demands on her struggling body while nursing.

I think weighing the kittens at the same time each day is critical. Though their bellies are round and they are active, we really need to see good daily gains to make sure they are getting enough milk to grow on!

Post their weights here so we can track them if you don't mind. [emoji]128522[/emoji]
 
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gitabooks

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FOSTER KITTEN CARE CHART:::::

Weight and amount given varies with individual kitten, especially in the formula quality, animals genetics and eventual size, ect.

0-7 days (up to a week): 3-7 oz (100-200 grams), average 4 oz or 112 grams

32 cc of formula per day. Feed 5 cc per feeding, 6 times a day.

Ears open at 5-8 days, eyes may begin to open around this time as well.

Stimulating to use the bathroom every time they are fed.

8-14 days (1-2 weeks): 4-10 oz, average 7 oz or 196 grams

56 cc of formula per day, 4-6 times a day, with around 14 cc (1-7 ml) per feeding.

Eyes open at 7-14 days of age.

Stimulating to use the bathroom every time they are fed.

15-21 days (2-3 weeks): 8-14 oz (200-300 grams), average of 10 oz or 280 grams.

80 cc of formula a day, 3-5 times a day, with 27 cc (7-9 ml) per feeding

Begin to crawl without dragging themselves. Continue to stimulate, though messes may occur sometimes.

22-28 days (3-4 weeks): 10 oz to 1 lbs, averaging 13 oz or 364 grams.

Feed 104 cc a day, 3-4 times a day, with around 35 cc (10 ml) per feeding.

Ears are erect, kitten can stand, will begin showing grooming and play behavior as well a occasionally using the bathroom on their own.

29-35 days (4-5 weeks): 12 oz to 1.3 lbs, averaging at 16 oz or 448 grams.

Fed 3 times a day around 138 cc in 43 cc servings.

Can usually use the bathroom without help (watch for signs of them not using the bathroom). Offer a litter box every feeding or constantly if they don't eat the litter. Will begin to show interest in canned food or lapping milk from a dish. Consider mixing canned food into the milk and straining it to provide the new taste in the bottle.

May be wormed.

36-42 days (5-6 weeks): 14 oz to 1.8 lbs

May insist on one or two bottles a day, particularly in the morning. Continue bottle feeding of the kittens are showing signs of dehydration or weakness. Offer water in a dish. Feed them 3-5 times a day from a dish.

43-49 days (6-7 weeks): 1-2 lbs

Should be nearly or fully weaned onto canned food. Can offer dry kitten food but watch for choking in small kittens. Water and a litter box should always be available.

50-56 days (7-8 weeks): 1.2-2.3 lbs

Weaned. May be vaccinated. Shelters sometimes fix cats by this age/weight (they are generally neutered/spayed at 2 lbs, though it is healthiest to weight until 4 lbs).

57-63 days (8-9 weeks): 1.4-2.6 lbs

Likely neutered/spayed by now, if 2 lbs, and ready for adoption in many cases.

64-70 days (9-10 weeks): 1.4-2.9 lbs

Keeping them with their mother, if not orphan, until at least 10 weeks of age is best for social skills and health of the kitten.

By 14-16 weeks they should be 4-5.5 lbs. This is the age breeders will separate kittens from their mother and neuter/spay them before adopting them out.

..........

1 week = 7 days = 1/4 a month

2 weeks = 14 days = 1/2 a month

3 weeks = 21 days = 3/4 a month

4 weeks = 28 days = 1 month

5 weeks = 35 days = 1.3 months

6 weeks = 42 days = 1.5 moths

7 weeks = 49 days = 1.8 months

8 weeks = 56 days = 2 months

9 weeks = 63 days = 2.3 months

10 weeks = 70 days = 2.5 months

11 weeks = 77days = 2.8 months

12 weeks = 84 days = 3 months

......

Kittens should be gaining around 1.7-3.5 oz a week during their first few weeks or around 6-9 grams or 0.3 oz from what I read.

....

Week one kittens will be blind and deaf and not into snuggling, petting, or playing at all. They will eat, sleep and use the bathroom. They also need to be kept warm but not hot.

Eyes begin to open in the second week, though they can't really see all that well. Their eyes are vulnerable to infection at this time, so watch for this. They will have blue eyes at this age. They will recognize a favorite nipple by smell.

By three weeks they are more aware of their surroundings and may be active for a few minutes crawling around, but still likely won't be too excited about cuddling or playing for too long. Their ears will begin to perk up and their baby teeth show. They will begin to purr.

By four weeks they have a fully mature sense of smell and are begin active, playful and start to use the bathroom and groom themselves (though the mother does the real cleaning still). They are getting improved eyesight and their hearing is well-developed. The mother will begin to leave her kittens for longer periods of time and they can start to try water or milk from a dish as well as canned food.

By five weeks sight is fully developed and weaning begins. They will begin to try stalking and pouncing, use the litter box, and play on instincts for hunting.

As they reach 6-8 weeks the eye color will start to change, they are VERY active and should be socialized in what a regular house-hold will be like, including being handled a lot, from the paws to the head. They will have sharp baby teeth, sharp claws, and should be getting four small meals of solid food a day.

They will start to mature reproductively at 6-9 months of age, get their adult teeth starting at 11 weeks and ending at around 20-24 weeks of age. They will be physically mature (size wise) at around 8-12 months of age and behaviorally will begin to settle down around 2 years of age.

I hope this helps!! : )
 
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gitabooks

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Our scale is a food scale and whenever a cat shifts on it the weight changes drastically, which means it's hard to get proper readings. However, here are their weights on July 19th at around 9:00pm.

Kai: 1.8 lbs

Cash: 1 lbs

Bee: 1 lbs

Trouble: 1 lbs

Ollie: 2.3 lbs (he's obviously the big boy of the bunch)

Ozzie: around 5 grams

Twilight: 4.5 grams

Nocturne: currently unweighed, I would guess around 5 grams

Lyla: Currently unweighed

Fred: 2 lbs (though I doubt he could gain that much weight in one day, could he? He was only 1.3 lbs at the vets on Sunday).
 

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Can you post Lyla's weight and each of her kitten's weights tomorrow?

I'm very anxious to follow them.
 
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