Even after 3 years cat is staying away and not trusting me :(

Dheeksha

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My cat, Bittu, is 3 years 4 months old now. He was a stray before. His mother left him in my backyard when he was about 1 month old. I used to feed him from then onwards and brought him home when he was 3 months old. He is an indoor cat totally. I've been very nice with him but he never allowed me to pet him. He runs away from me when I come near to him. He plays chasing string game with me though. He used to be very friendly with the other adult male cats when he was young. But after he grew up they started fighting with each other. Now he is friendly with only female kittens. He don't like adult female cats too. But he don't fight with them.
When he was 1 year old I took him to the hospital for neuter surgery. As soon as I took him from the carrier box he has bitten my fingers very hard and ripped of my finger nail. The vet can't perform surgery to him. He behaves too violently if I try to hold him now. He's spraying all around the house continuously and eating too much. He's like always hungry. He's trying to eat broom bristles too. Everyone's saying that he's a feral and won't change. But I can't and I wont give up on him. So what can I do to make him normal? will he ever behave like my other cats?
His problems:
Biting & scratching when trying to touch, Fighting with male cats, Continuously spraying, constantly hungry, overeating, eating inedible items like broom bristles.
 
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FeebysOwner

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Hi. So, he is NOT neutered, correct? Getting him neutered would likely make a big difference with most of his behaviors - although the spraying might continue on afterwards because has been doing it for so long. It is my guess that he eats more than your other cats, in part due to raging hormones and a bit of boredom as most intact males want to roam. When you say he is overeating, is he overweight?

Here in the US, vets will prescribe a sedative to put in a cat's food to help calm them down enough to transport them for neutering. Is that possible to get something like that from your vet in India?
 

fionasmom

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The other possibility is that if you are bringing him in a traditional cat carrier with a grilled door or even a soft sided carrier the vet can tip the carrier and inject a sedative that way without opening the door of the carrier. My vet does it that way with all ferals including those brought in a trap.
 

Carolina SA

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The other possibility is that if you are bringing him in a traditional cat carrier with a grilled door or even a soft sided carrier the vet can tip the carrier and inject a sedative that way without opening the door of the carrier. My vet does it that way with all ferals including those brought in a trap.
My vet who is not scared of a hostile cat likes my soft carrier - it works great. We keept the cat inside, push down on the carrier for its first injection!

Neutering and a safe isolation room is so helpful when calming and taming a cat.
It is too much for them to have many other cats around them.
 

kittychick

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I'm a little late - - but had to answer with my 2 cents when I saw you said "I can't and I won't give up on him." That made my heart sing!!!!!! And obviously - you've done well with him for so long, and been patient even through bites. We'll all help get you there!

You've gotten similar advice above - so I'll echo and add a bit. You obviously care deeply- so many people would have tossed him out, soon as he didn't display the behavior they "expected." Obviously your love for him runs deeper. :redheartpump: I too feel a VERY big part of this is him not being neutered. Virtually all of the behaviors you list that YOu'd like to change usually tie very closely to neutering....and while most behavioral issues don't "go away" immediately after neutering (testerone takes some time to leave your kitty's body, plus some of it will involve retraining/redirecting a bit), but the behaviors you mention are usually either caused, or greatly exaggerated, by having an unneutered cat.

So first things first. Getting him neutered is far and above the main issue. The suggestion of a soft sided carrier is great - shots can be given through the fabric. The other option is a smaller carrier then you'd usually use, so the vet can perhaps give an initial shot through the bars. A humane trap with a "squeeze bar" would also work if need be. But talking to your vet about giving him a light sedative at home BEFORE you try to transport him would be a GREAT place to start. Makes things calmer for hi, you AND the vet! Call your vet ahead to talk about the visit and the need for a sedative (and if your current vet won't help you - find someone who WILL help you with a feral/semi feral kitty! Check online - call around - even go to a local spay/neuter clinic if you have one - they deal with ferals every day - - and they often have vets more willing to deal with "difficult" kitties.Many vets do (esp if you let the vet know the issues and why you want to neuter him) will help you with this.

Do know you're not alone. We have a very domesticated kitty we've had since he was about a year - - but he was abused (partially by stuffing him in a hamster cage where he couldn't even turn around) and getting him in a carrier is crazy time (biting/scratching/screaming - some from Bowie - some from me :). We learned we have to sedate hi a bit prior to a vet visit. But a knowledge vet will help you calm him first.

We can go thru more later on curbing a few of those issues (I'd start a new thread if I were you). But first - - neutering! Keep us posted - - truly - good luck!!!!!!:cheerleader:
 
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