Cat Reintroduction Help - 3.5 months...

Jacobro

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Hi all.
I have two cats that were best friends (sleeping together, licking each other, etc) after an easy initial 2 week introduction process in 2020, when one was a kitten and the other a mature kitty.
Now the kitten is almost 4 and the other cat is 12+ years old.

Marshy is the young cat, and has always been fearful and was diagnosed with kitty anxiety after having a urinary blockage 2 years ago, which we've worked around by having a urinary SO diet. He has always been fearful of new people, or loud noises, but has the sweetest temperament of any of the dozens of cats I've ever met. The absolutely sweetest cat.
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We had an issue of redirected aggression 3-4 months ago, where our older cat pounced at our back door when a neighbors dog was on the other side of it, then older cat immediately pounced on our other cat Marshy who was sitting next to him, when he couldn't get at the dog outside. They had their first ever full on fight that I had to break up. No real injuries to either cat, though I got scratched.
They were both immediately separated, and we began the reintroduction process after a few slip ups where our kids accidentally let a cat out of their safe room a day or so after the fight, which resulted in aggressive behavior/attempted fights when they encountered each other.

We have been doing the reintroduction for over 3 months now, and the logistics alone of feeding time with a toddler and other child, it is wearing heavily on us.
We originally had two safe rooms. Our master bedroom for the anxious cat, and repurposed the basement for the older cat. We have been allowing one to freely roam our house for 4-5 hours a day while the other is in their safe room, then swapping places. We recently transitioned 2 weeks ago to a single safe room, our decent sized basement room. Both cats always have access to food, water and a litter box.
The older cat has been chilled out for a long time. No aggression on his end anymore, he is not stressed by our younger cat.

We moved through the scent swapping phase easily, as neither cat was even bothered by the scent of each other, and were just fine spending time in the main house when the other was in their safe room. The younger anxious cat will first explore to make sure the other cat was nowhere to be found, then eventually relax enough to freely roam after about 5-10 minutes.
We moved to feeding on opposite side of a door for a few days, which went well and was easy. We then moved to having all meals (breakfast and dinner) from the safety of baby gates/screen about 10 feet apart, just in front of an open door so the anxious cat couldn't quite see the older cat, then moved to the food bowl just outside the door, but with a screen on his side, and baby gate 10 ft away on the older cats side.
We were able to slowly move the baby gate closer to about 6 ft, only had a couple hissing incidents (all from the younger anxious cat) during feeding time, and immediately ended the session. We had a hissing incident when they were like 5 ft away, in which the older cat was looking (not death staring) at the younger cat while eating, because my wife wasn't home and I had to do feeding time solo, and the younger cat probably felt threatened by the steady gaze.

We play with the younger cat to start the feeding sessions if we can to get him in a playful mood.
The issue is, in the past few days, the younger cat has severely regressed. He hides under our bed much more, and is fearful whenever we get close a lot of the time because he is so used to us picking him up and bringing him to our bedroom or the safe room as part of our daily switching time to have one free roam and one in the safe room. The older cat can safely go outside and come back, the younger cat is an indoor only cat, as the few times he's been outside beyond on our deck he does not come back as easily as the other cat.

The younger cat has not gone to eat his food with the older cat present in several days, and barely had any dinner last night, and none this morning.
We took him 2 days ago to the vet to get checked out and put on anxiety medication, which was suggested several years ago when he had a urinary blockage before all of this conflict. He had a bunch of matted fur on his bottom area, which they clipped. The rest of his body seems pretty well groomed though and they found no other causes for concern medically.
We are on day 3 of kitty Prozac, which takes several week to kick in, if it works at all.

I thought that maybe we rushed it and tried the last two days to take a step back and eat with food bowls on either side of the safe room doors, but the younger cat wasn't really willing to do this when we tried.
This morning, I tried to do what we had been doing for months before using the baby gates/screen at about 10 ft apart, but he would only come out from under the bed when I gave him a treat, then almost immediately went back under the bed.

We are at our wits end and do not want to hire a cat behaviorist. My wife talks about wanting to basically have them just sort it out, but we both know that won't work with cats, unless there is some method I haven't found on the internet.

I am looking for help as we are not going to rehome either of them, but we cannot live our lives with them separate forever, it won't work.

Should we go back and start over with the either side of a door eating? Then work back up to visual contact from 10 ft away, working to slowly close to gap?
Did we overlook anything? I know it takes patience, but I'm so frustrated, especially considering we were doing so well for awhile for weeks and then all of a sudden Marshy isn't wanting to come out to eat.

We have a screen door in our doorframe that the cats could try swatting at each other, but won't be able to do real damage because it's a plastic tent-like screen.
We also have multiple baby gates we have been using at our disposal.

Also, we have been using a Feliway multi cat for two months. One in the safe room, one in the main living room. We noticed a small difference the first few days, but that's it. We are one refill in.Also, we have been using a Feliway multi cat for two months. One in the safe room, one in the main living room. We noticed a small difference the first few days, but that's it. We are one refill in.

Help!

Pics of sweet cats.
 

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FeebysOwner

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Hi and welcome to TCS.

Reading through your post, the first thing that came to mind is that the closer these two cats are, the more the younger one can smell constantly changing scents on the older cat due to him going outside. For an anxious cat, that might always pose a problem to some degree.

The second thing that came to mind is that Marshy also changed some behavior when being put on Prozac. So, that also has to be taken into consideration. If not that, then he might be experiencing some 'new' issues with his urinary condition, despite that you took him to the vet. What all did the vet do to see if there might be something going on with that aspect?

I'd take a step back with the introductions and see if that will settle Marshy any, along with allowing the Prozac to take effect. The key is to get Marshy back to where he was before he regressed.

Never change more than one thing at a time, because then you have no idea which change is causing a problem. I'd also think that the source of the issue is with Marshy, and if you can get to the bottom of his problems, perhaps with the Prozac, you can likely get them back to where they once were.

Btw, Feliway doesn't necessarily work on all cats. So, I wouldn't count on it one way or the other. But, there are some cats who respond to it negatively too.
 
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Jacobro

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Hi and welcome to TCS.

Reading through your post, the first thing that came to mind is that the closer these two cats are, the more the younger one can smell constantly changing scents on the older cat due to him going outside. For an anxious cat, that might always pose a problem to some degree.

The second thing that came to mind is that Marshy also changed some behavior when being put on Prozac. So, that also has to be taken into consideration. If not that, then he might be experiencing some 'new' issues with his urinary condition, despite that you took him to the vet. What all did the vet do to see if there might be something going on with that aspect?

I'd take a step back with the introductions and see if that will settle Marshy any, along with allowing the Prozac to take effect. The key is to get Marshy back to where he was before he regressed.

Never change more than one thing at a time, because then you have no idea which change is causing a problem. I'd also think that the source of the issue is with Marshy, and if you can get to the bottom of his problems, perhaps with the Prozac, you can likely get them back to where they once were.

Btw, Feliway doesn't necessarily work on all cats. So, I wouldn't count on it one way or the other. But, there are some cats who respond to it negatively too.
Thanks for your reply. The vet did a typical once over, looking at his teeth, belly, butt/pelvic area, etc. Not an invasive or bloodwork type exam by any means.The vet suggested kitty prozac, and when I asked what would be if after at least 30+ days there is no noticeable change, she said we essentially would try another medication.

I think the source of the issue is also with Marshy, the other cat is cool as a cucumber throughout this.
We will try to keep the other cat indoors to see if the changing scents cause an issue, good point.


I will continue to update every so often, or if there is anything significant to report.
Thanks for responding. No Facebook groups for cats have even had anyone respond to my pleas for help and I am grateful for any help we can get from fellow cat lovers.

As of late afternoon today, once Marshy finally came out from under our bed, he was placed into the safe room and appeared calm and not high anxiety. For dinner, we took his food and the other cat (Tonto) and ate on opposite sides of the safe room door. Marshy was definitely hungry, as he barely touched the last two meals worth of food and normally has a healthy appetite.
He ate a good bit of food, barely noticed the other cats quiet eating sounds on the other side of the door, then sat at his bowl.
I'd call that a win, even if it took two meals of protest to do so.

For the Feliway, Marshy originally appeared a bit chilled out after the second day of using it. We also just noticed this morning that the main Feliway in the upstairs was essentially empty. So, I moved the Feliway from the safe room into his bedroom for a few hours, then into the main room. I have a new one set to deliver first thing tomorrow morning. I'm not sure if the empty Feliway had anything to do with it, but it doesn't seem to have any negative reactions from the cats when they are plugged in with a container of the pheromone.

I will plan to do only eating on opposite sides of the door for now, keeping Tonto the other cat mostly inside to hopefully help with the scent.
 

FeebysOwner

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You will likely get other responses in the coming days. A lot of folks on this site come and go, and then peruse some of the threads looking for ones they might have some ideas about.

If Tonto bucks at being kept inside, try rubbing him with a towel or blanket that is first rubbed on Marshy each time he comes inside. That way they will smell more alike, if that is part of the issue.

I'll keep thinking too...
 

Alldara

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One thing I will just add that a lot of people had luck with is brushing the cats with the same brush daily and taking a shirt a human has worn and rubbing each cat down with it and then rubbing it along thr baseboards of your home.

Since it's been so long, rebuilding the family smell.will help a ton.

I'd leave regular meals out of the introductions and just lower the amount of regular food a touch so you can add some high reward treats.
 
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Jacobro

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One thing I will just add that a lot of people had luck with is brushing the cats with the same brush daily and taking a shirt a human has worn and rubbing each cat down with it and then rubbing it along thr baseboards of your home.

Since it's been so long, rebuilding the family smell.will help a ton.

I'd leave regular meals out of the introductions and just lower the amount of regular food a touch so you can add some high reward treats.
Great idea with the baseboards.

As far as the food idea, the main problem cat is proje to crystals/life threatening urinary blockages so he's on a urinary SO diet. My fear is if we add a bunch of daily treats to his diet it could alter the pH balance or whatever keeps the crystals away.

Is it common to not have regular feedings in introductions? That's an almost universal part of everything I read on reintroductions.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Alldara

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Great idea with the baseboards.

As far as the food idea, the main problem cat is proje to crystals/life threatening urinary blockages so he's on a urinary SO diet. My fear is if we add a bunch of daily treats to his diet it could alter the pH balance or whatever keeps the crystals away.

Is it common to not have regular feedings in introductions? That's an almost universal part of everything I read on reintroductions.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Him. That could be a bit difficult, but you could do some tube treats or catnip perhaps if that works for your home. There are some purina urinary SO treats as well I believe (used to be anyway). I can only find Royal Canin's right now. But I'd ask the vet if he can have a temptations tube daily. Moisture is the most important thing for lowering episodes of crystaks and blockages.
Feline Urinary Treats | Royal Canin CA

I had a cat with FLUTD and so I never did regular feeding with intros. He had calcium crystals which is a bit different from the regular struvite crystals.

My take is that the food portion was popularized by Jackson Galaxy and then added in to almost every intro guide out there. But JG's videos are generalized advice. It's not the same as work he does in someone's home, tailored to the specific cats.

Your cat is showing stress by having to make a generally enjoyable thing into a stressful situation, so it doesn't work for him.
Not eating for a cat is also dangerous. Especially since you need to get that moisture into him to keep his urine diluted.

In between sessions, the cat should go back to baseline low to no stress. That's how you know if you're going at the right pace for the cat.
 

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I think using meals as part of the introduction is suggested to help give some distraction to the cats while they are around each other, as a lot of their focus is on the food. But, it also builds a bit of a confidence level for each cat to learn they can safely eat around another cat. So, there are reasons to do it.
 
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Jacobro

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Update.
Marshy was calm most of the day, did not try to have them eat breakfast together due to logistics.
Marshy ate a little breakfast, not a lot until mid afternoon though. Our toddler ran at him and Marshy hid under the bed after that for like 2 hours, then emerged.

He didn't want to come out under the couch even when we were playing string with him, though he was playing.

When we swapped him into the basement guest room, he was very anxious and didn't want to eat on his side of the door like he did yesterday with Tonto the older cat on the other side.

When Tonto came inside, I immediately brought him downstairs and wrapped a mutual cat indoor blanket all over him for scents.

Foenthe first time ever, he went to the litter box and sat in it, not doing his business. It seems like he was really anxious. He stayed in there for 10 minutes before coming out and is now chilling on the couch in the basement room, as he was doing this morning.

I am going to order urinary SO prescription cat treats tomorrow.
1000010681.jpg
 
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Jacobro

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Update. We are finding what works for many people doesn't work for Marshy. All the switching him to different rooms was stressing him out. Instead, what we've been doing the last few days is letting Tonto the older cat outside (since he wants to go outside A LOT), and letting Marshy free roam the entire house during that time. Then, when Tonto wants to come back after a few hours, putting Marshy in the basement, or if he's in our bedroom, just closing that door for a few hours until it's swap or a meal time.
He has been MUCH, MUCH less stressed, and has been doing great eating at the max distance (about 8 ft).
We will slowly start to reduce the distance.

We also now have the urinary SO treats at our disposal, so we have been using those, in conjunction with his kitty prozac, which we are on around day 6 of.

Stay tuned....
 

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I'm staying tuned!
I'm happy you found a method that works better for your home/cats!!
 
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Jacobro

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Question. Marshy has thrown up his kitty prozac 3 times so far, and once last night about 1 min after he had it, when I specifically wet it, and it practically dissolved in my fingers.

How do you wet it (because you aren't supposed to dry pill cats), then give him water after? We have medicine syringes, but I was hoping there was an alternative method to using them.
 
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